[RojasTKD]

Do you think that applying some Lquid Electrical Tape might help avoid the cracking issue (http://www.plastidip.com/home_soluti...l_Insulation)? Anyone tried?

I'm expecting the arrival of some SE530's tomorrow.

 

[Arjisme]

Quote:

Originally Posted by qusp /img/forum/go_quote.gif well I have the new design and my cable dies in another way though. plus all the accessories cables died one by one too

Not the same as saying as saying it is a common problem. There was a similar discussion in one of the other threads regarding W3s and the left channel going bad. Some have experienced it. But it is not enough that you can say there is a general problem. Make enough IEMs and some will have manufacturing defects.

 

[qusp]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Arjisme /img/forum/go_quote.gif Not the same as saying as saying it is a common problem. There was a similar discussion in one of the other threads regarding W3s and the left channel going bad. Some have experienced it. But it is not enough that you can say there is a general problem. Make enough IEMs and some will have manufacturing defects.

ummm yes maybe, but all my parts were from presumably different batches. the PTH was bought separately and so was the iphone adapter. so for all of them to fail one by one says to me its a common problem. wouldnt you agree?? for me it hasnt been so much the actual coating or anything like that becoming stiff and cracking; because as I explained I looked after them very well. for me the PTH failed near the mini jack and started cutting out, the same problem with the iphone adapter and the actual strain relief on the IEM itself started to crack, because I stupidly didnt do that as much as the cable. so now both of the strain reliefs have seperated from the IEM housing and one of theam is cracked. so I figure the cable near the driver will be the next to fail without the strain relief.

 

[spleisher]

Can anyone explain (or point me in the direction of tha thread that can explain) how the date codes are stamped on the SE530's? I just want to double-check mine. Also, does anyone know specifically when the cables were re-designed (Ie., which date codes would be "safe")?

 

[cassper]

Quote:

Originally Posted by spleisher /img/forum/go_quote.gif Can anyone explain (or point me in the direction of tha thread that can explain) how the date codes are stamped on the SE530's? I just want to double-check mine. Also, does anyone know specifically when the cables were re-designed (Ie., which date codes would be "safe")?

I had mine on the back side of the box, next to the barcode.. 28-11-2008 it says..

 

[AudioJUNK]

Recabling might be another solution to all of this, even though the newer version cable is indeed improved. I have seen a couple of chinese DIYer/merchants doing these jobs but not sure whether they offer these services to the rest of the world.
Null Audio seems have a new cable for SE530, though I don't think it is released yet... they did put up a picture here.

 

[spleisher]

Quote:

Originally Posted by cassper /img/forum/go_quote.gif I had mine on the back side of the box, next to the barcode.. 28-11-2008 it says..

Thanks, just found it. Mine says "2008/09/29". I'm thinking I'm probably ok then.

 

[cassper]

Quote:

Originally Posted by AudioJUNK /img/forum/go_quote.gif Recabling might be another solution to all of this, even though the newer version cable is indeed improved. I have seen a couple of chinese DIYer/merchants doing these jobs but not sure whether they offer these services to the rest of the world. Null Audio seems have a new cable for SE530, though I don't think it is released yet... they did put up a picture here.

These se530 seem like they have been opened. Do you think they have to split-open the housing in order to recable them? Doesn't it influence the sound quality afterwards?

 

[scrane]

Quote:

Originally Posted by MythNoob /img/forum/go_quote.gif The armour-all is a really good idea i use that product on the plastics in my car and it protects them well, its a shame that it still didnt seem to work cause i was gonna try the same thing. i understand your frustration at what to do about replacing them, im in NZ and its so hard juggling things that your buying/returning/exchanging from all the way down here its such a hassle huh. So i take it the question is still up in the air as to the cable problem, does anyone have a definitive answer as how to protect them and stop them from failing?

I don't know that Armour-all is really a good idea. I assume it at least partially contains some kind of solvent and solvents and plastics are not always a good match. If the problem with the Shure cables is actually sweat, that sounds water soluable and a gentle wipedown with tap water might be the best thing.
Sandy.

 

[Danosaurus]

Quote:

Originally Posted by scrane /img/forum/go_quote.gif I don't know that Armour-all is really a good idea. I assume it at least partially contains some kind of solvent and solvents and plastics are not always a good match. If the problem with the Shure cables is actually sweat, that sounds water soluable and a gentle wipedown with tap water might be the best thing. Sandy.

I agree, Armor-All is meant for hard automotive plastics, you never know what those chemicals might do to soft headphone cable insulation...

 

[mrbranch]

Quote:

Originally Posted by spleisher /img/forum/go_quote.gif Also, does anyone know specifically when the cables were re-designed (Ie., which date codes would be "safe")?

would anyone know the answer for this query?

 

[AudioJUNK]

Quote:

Originally Posted by cassper /img/forum/go_quote.gif These se530 seem like they have been opened. Do you think they have to split-open the housing in order to recable them? Doesn't it influence the sound quality afterwards?

Yeah, you must open the housing to swap the cable. I guess since they opened it without too much marks left on the casing(as in the pic), putting them back to one piece should be easier than that.

 

[Feather225]

I thought the cable issue was gone...I just got my cousin a SE530 for Christmas...hope she doesn't hits me if that cable breaks...

 

[qusp]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Danosaurus /img/forum/go_quote.gif I agree, Armor-All is meant for hard automotive plastics, you never know what those chemicals might do to soft headphone cable insulation...

no armorall is meant for protecting tyre rubber. at least the one I got was. and it was recommended to me when I asked about the cable. Olive oil is also a good solution. and the armorall did its job fantastically; the cable insulation is still as supple as it was when I got it, it was the 2 connector strain reliefs and the strain relief on the IEM that failed. you guys can think what you want about your new toys, good chance they are going to die on you. I liked the performance of the SE530, although the W3 did overtake it in the end for me, but no way am I sitting around while my warranty runs out returning my IEM's periodically

that SE530 does indeed look dodgy. looks like they had to pry it open with something to re-cable it and they've chipped it badly and the housing still looks like it isnt closed properly. as if you would put that picture up to sell a product

yeah i'll send my SE530 in for you to destroy for a fee.

 

[Chrisboff]

I'm pretty sure it is a BAD idea to use olive oil, or any organic oil for that matter, on cables. Won't it damage them more?