[thegratefuldad]

The hair dryer in question says 1875W (15.6A), so you're right on the dot. However, for the dog's sake, she usually uses low-medium heat, and medium fan settings. I have no idea what the scaling factor is, without pulling it through a Kill-a-watt (and hope it doesn't exceed the amp limit there). But given that my wife was using her gaming computer at the same time, also on the same circuit (pulls 300-600W), I'm not surprised if your guess is the correct one.

In fact, I remember my daughter dried the dog down here last month without the MJ3 doing crazies – with the one difference being that my wife was not using her computer. So I guess that further supports the idea that the MJ3 was likely being current-starved. Good guess, thanks for the ideas, all. I might have to try getting a new circuit put in the office, after all...

Keep the wife, get rid of the dog? joking here .....

 

[thegratefuldad]

Just wondering if anyone here has ordered an MJ3 in January and has received it or sent shipping info?
I'm probably near the bottom of the list or more likely at the bottom of the list (ordered on January 23rd).

 

[devilboy]

Just wondering if anyone here has ordered an MJ3 in January and has received it or sent shipping info?
I'm probably near the bottom of the list or more likely at the bottom of the list (ordered on January 23rd).

I ordered mine on January 1st. FedEx says it arrives this Thursday.

 

[MisterRogersHaus]

I'm curious if anyone has received a recent shipping notice on a black MJ3; seems most / all of those shipping are silver?

 

[devilboy]

I'm curious if anyone has shipping notice on a black MJ3; seems most / all of those shipping are silver?

Oops. Yeah, mine is silver. I forgot to mention that.

 

[planar shill]

I'm curious if anyone has received a recent shipping notice on a black MJ3; seems most / all of those shipping are silver?

Mine arrived about a week ago, it is the black version.

 

[quawn0418]

Mine arrived about a week ago, it is the black version.

When did you place your order?

 

[kumar402]

I had a weird experience over the weekend I wanted to share.

I know about the quiet hum/vibration that the MJ3 is supposed to have. Never bothered me before, and not noticeable in any normal situation. Well, my daughter brought her hair dryer downstairs to dry her dog yesterday. She plugged it into the living room outlet, which is stupidly on the same circuit as my office. My audio system is on a Furman AC power conditioner, but when she turned that thing on, my MJ3 immediately started audibly buzzing loudly enough to be heard above the Susvara playing at ~65dBish, and also above the noise of the hair dryer (door still open). I don't think the buzzing was coming through into the audio, because I think I heard it as much after I put the Sus down. I touched the MJ3 with my hand, and it was vibrating almost as much as the clothes dryer on a tumble cycle. I immediately switched it off in fear, and it all stopped of course. After the dog was dried off, I turned the MJ3 back on, and it sounded like nothing had happened.

So... have any of you guys had a problem with your MJ3 units vibrating/buzzing like crazy? What is it about a hair dryer that would cause a choke to vibrate to that extent?? And is my Furman AC-215A Power Conditioner defective, or is that the nature of these things? I don't think I've ever heard my Jot2 do this before...

It may very well be DC that drier might be injecting in the power line

 

[Slackaveli]

Keep the wife, get rid of the dog? joking here .....

No, dude. Never get rid of the dog

 

[seb7]

I'm curious if anyone has received a recent shipping notice on a black MJ3; seems most / all of those shipping are silver?

I ordered a black one on Dec 11 and got it this past Friday.

 

[solid12345]

Just wondering if anyone here has ordered an MJ3 in January and has received it or sent shipping info?
I'm probably near the bottom of the list or more likely at the bottom of the list (ordered on January 23rd).

I finally got mine (black) I ordered after Thanksgiving today. Loving it so far, it’s probably the first amp I’ve gotten that can truly maintain all the micro-detail from my DAVE but giving it that extra sweetness to round out the sound. I have others that pair very well with it but always seem to lose something in translation while gaining other traits.

 

[tincanear]

Looking forward to such a revelation . If the worst that will happen is chasing other cables, that's fine. But the dac (pontus 2) and hekse will certainly stay untouched. First, because this dac proved already to be a keeper for my speakers system and second anyway I don't have funds to experiment further (family life is challenging). That's why I need to choose the right .
Edit: forgot to mention I'm aware I'll need to add a DDC to the chain, but that probably after all the rest is settled, maybe next year or so .

But while waiting for MJ3, are there any easy recommendations for power cable and XLR interconnects? Like if the stock MJ3 cable is fine, and the same goes for Schiit "Pyst Snake Oil" XLR - are they good for MJ3? I surely don't want to spend more on cables than I did on MJ3 . Currently, I use Pangea power cables and Atohm RCA interconnects for my speakers. I can try to swap one Pangea on MJ3, but I have no XLR interconnects so far. Atohm XLR and Supra XLR I can easily test, but anything else will be again a blind purchase.
(I tried to search this forum for that as well, but didn't find an answer yet, if I missed it sorry and just please point me there, thanks)

Have never heard the Atohm and Supra interconnects, but construction of both of those look very nice. I recommend that you also try some types of budget audiophile XLR cables: mogami 2549 (2-cond for shorter runs) / 2534 (star-quad for longer runs) vs canare L-2T2S (2-cond for shorter runs) / L-4E6S (quad for longer runs) vs the Atohm & Supra (if returnable loaner or home trials available). There is also Belden 1800F (2-cond) & 1192A (star quad) but thay may be more difficult to locate outside of USA. XLR connectors made by Amphenol or Neutrik should be just fine. Also, instead of rapid a/b testing, use each type for a few days, then switch to another one. One of these (Mogami, Canare, Atohm, Supra) will likely have a tonal quality / voicing more ideal to your preferences.

IMO, the interconnects do make a difference, as I have heard voicing differences with short (0.25m SE/RCA) interconnects between Belden 1800F, Mogami 2549, Canare L-4E6S and some DIY cables using DH Labs bulk interconnect wire; old CD player via s/spdif coax into Bifrost Multibit 1 "bimby", Jotunheim 2 "jot2", mid-range planars. YMMV.
If they sound about the same to your ears (or the differences seem minimal vs cost), keeping the cheapest one will save you some money (to buy more music).

 

[tincanear]

The hair dryer in question says 1875W (15.6A), so you're right on the dot. However, for the dog's sake, she usually uses low-medium heat, and medium fan settings. I have no idea what the scaling factor is, without pulling it through a Kill-a-watt (and hope it doesn't exceed the amp limit there). But given that my wife was using her gaming computer at the same time, also on the same circuit (pulls 300-600W), I'm not surprised if your guess is the correct one.

In fact, I remember my daughter dried the dog down here last month without the MJ3 doing crazies – with the one difference being that my wife was not using her computer. So I guess that further supports the idea that the MJ3 was likely being current-starved. Good guess, thanks for the ideas, all. I might have to try getting a new circuit put in the office, after all...

with both the gaming PC running as well as the blow dryer, the circuit may be loaded close to breaker rating (some older wiring setups also tied the lighting on the same circuit as the plugs) and possibly the breaker contacts are chattering near the trip point.

+1 about the new AC circuit for audio gear only (if the mains circuit breaker panel can support it, I recommend that your electrician pull two circuits instead of just one and use a 2-gang outlet box (red hot wire, blk hot wire, shared neutral)

 

[nighthink]

Have never heard the Atohm and Supra interconnects, but construction of both of those look very nice. I recommend that you also try some types of budget audiophile XLR cables: mogami 2549 (2-cond for shorter runs) / 2534 (star-quad for longer runs) vs canare L-2T2S (2-cond for shorter runs) / L-4E6S (quad for longer runs) vs the Atohm & Supra (if returnable loaner or home trials available). There is also Belden 1800F (2-cond) & 1192A (star quad) but thay may be more difficult to locate outside of USA. XLR connectors made by Amphenol or Neutrik should be just fine. Also, instead of rapid a/b testing, use each type for a few days, then switch to another one. One of these (Mogami, Canare, Atohm, Supra) will likely have a tonal quality / voicing more ideal to your preferences.

IMO, the interconnects do make a difference, as I have heard voicing differences with short (0.25m SE/RCA) interconnects between Belden 1800F, Mogami 2549, Canare L-4E6S and some DIY cables using DH Labs bulk interconnect wire; old CD player via s/spdif coax into Bifrost Multibit 1 "bimby", Jotunheim 2 "jot2", mid-range planars. YMMV.
If they sound about the same to your ears (or the differences seem minimal vs cost), keeping the cheapest one will save you some money (to buy more music).

Thanks for such detailed suggestions - those mogami / canare are even much cheaper than Pyst from Schiit, normally I wouldn't even search in such price range (I consider 240 Eur for Atohm just about my limit). I also read in several places that the interconnects are actually those with the highest impact on sound, but I have no proof. My existing Atohm RCA interconnect I just bought because I believed my dealer (very nice trustworthy guy ).
And then I felt like I actually did hear the difference in the Pangea power cables vs the stock ones for my speakers system. That's why I kept them. Well, at least they do look much better than the stock ones if nothing else (on the photo).

So I will just try both of them on the MJ3. The thick one is for a power amplifier so curious if MJ3 will like more the thicker one .

Anyway, I know this thread is not about cables. At least I'm now much more confident I don't need to spend too much more.

 

[quawn0418]

Thanks for such detailed suggestions - those mogami / canare are even much cheaper than Pyst from Schiit, normally I wouldn't even search in such price range (I consider 240 Eur for Atohm just about my limit). I also read in several places that the interconnects are actually those with the highest impact on sound, but I have no proof. My existing Atohm RCA interconnect I just bought because I believed my dealer (very nice trustworthy guy ).
And then I felt like I actually did hear the difference in the Pangea power cables vs the stock ones for my speakers system. That's why I kept them. Well, at least they do look much better than the stock ones if nothing else (on the photo).

So I will just try both of them on the MJ3. The thick one is for a power amplifier so curious if MJ3 will like more the thicker one .

Anyway, I know this thread is not about cables. At least I'm now much more confident I don't need to spend too much more.

I’m a fan of the pangea cables as well, I’m *almost* sure (lol) they make my Bifrost sound cleaner with better separation.