corndog71
500+ Head-Fier
I like all of the Wellers but the 12 year is my favorite.
I keep forgetting that “analog cards” contain the DAC chips. That’s just counterintuitive to my grey matter, for some reason. My bad.I would too, but good luck finding analog 2 cards.
Yeah, I had planned at some point to do Analog 2, but I guess my chance is passed on that one. I did get the impression that with the firmware upgrades the analog 1 was improved in performance as well, and as long as you're not trying to drive low impedance devices there was less tangible benefit of A2 over A1.I think I’d go Analog 2 for my GS2 before trying MIB. I’d appreciate hearing your thought process on doing the MIB first. I
... Boss: "Hey! Label 'em as SQ 'filament getter'. MSRP: existing +20%."I don't have a definitive answer on this. First time I've ever seen it. But looking at the base of one of my tubes, a wire is connected to Pin 4 and disappears between the plates in one triode. Another wire exits that triode and goes to the other triode and then disappears between the plates. Then there's a wire exiting that triode that is connected to Pin 5. Pins 4 and 5 are the heater (filament) connections, so it looks like the heater wire itself is continuous from Pin 4 to Pin 5 going through both triodes. The section of wire between the two triodes is normally at the bottom of the plates, not the top as would appear to be the case with your tube. It's possible (and I'm just spitballing here) that something was out of whack during assembly and the wire between the triodes ended up on top instead of at the bottom. Whether you use it or not is of course up to you. Personally, I wouldn't use it even though it may be OK electrically. Just not worth the risk (to me).
Non-Schiit Factory Floor:
Employee: "Hey boss, the new guy set up the winding machine wrong, and this last batch of 5000 6DJ8's has the filament on top."
Boss: "What? You mean the filament wire between the triodes is above the plates?"
Employee: "Exactly."
Boss: "And we ran 5000 of these before anybody noticed? Are you serious? The entire batch is done like that?!?"
Employee: "Afraid so."
Boss: "Do they work?"
Employee: "Yes sir, they seem to work just fine."
Boss: "Ship 'em."
How many do you need? I've got some NOS, NIB red base 5692's just taking up space.
We need to see a picture of the MGB GT, please!Man, if your Pacer looks anything like this fine specimen seen at a Concourse d'Elegance I went to over the summer (in a cool MGB GT), I'd be a might bit jealous.
... what happened to your Mazda? Or is that your vacation home @ Tractor Supply lot?Yes they do! Well, I don't know about WalMart -- I upgraded to the Target parking lot weeks ago. My new address:
Target Parking Lot
Faded yellow '74 AMC Pacer (in the event of more than one, it's the one with cardboard duct-taped inside the windows)
Atlanta, GA.
That should get anything right to me. For now.
Were they Russian tubes? If so, then it would have been :I don't have a definitive answer on this. First time I've ever seen it. But looking at the base of one of my tubes, a wire is connected to Pin 4 and disappears between the plates in one triode. Another wire exits that triode and goes to the other triode and then disappears between the plates. Then there's a wire exiting that triode that is connected to Pin 5. Pins 4 and 5 are the heater (filament) connections, so it looks like the heater wire itself is continuous from Pin 4 to Pin 5 going through both triodes. The section of wire between the two triodes is normally at the bottom of the plates, not the top as would appear to be the case with your tube. It's possible (and I'm just spitballing here) that something was out of whack during assembly and the wire between the triodes ended up on top instead of at the bottom. Whether you use it or not is of course up to you. Personally, I wouldn't use it even though it may be OK electrically. Just not worth the risk (to me).
Non-Schiit Factory Floor:
Employee: "Hey boss, the new guy set up the winding machine wrong, and this last batch of 5000 6DJ8's has the filament on top."
Boss: "What? You mean the filament wire between the triodes is above the plates?"
Employee: "Exactly."
Boss: "And we ran 5000 of these before anybody noticed? Are you serious? The entire batch is done like that?!?"
Employee: "Afraid so."
Boss: "Do they work?"
Employee: "Yes sir, they seem to work just fine."
Boss: "Ship 'em."
It is my friend's. Has had some brake and suspension upgrades but otherwise stock.We need to see a picture of the MGB GT, please!
After doing some solder station shopping I was absolutely flummoxed trying to understand this before my better senses caught up. Or maybe it was my barrel proof sensesI personally like Weller Full Proof but I haven't had it in a year or two. So, while not knowing if year-to-year batches have changed any, I think you made a fine choice.
Of the regular Weller lineup, I like in order: Weller CYPB (not sure if this is still being bottled so maybe this gets omitted), Weller Full Proof, Weller Antique 107.
Fair that. Thanks!Yeah, I had planned at some point to do Analog 2, but I guess my chance is passed on that one. I did get the impression that with the firmware upgrades the analog 1 was improved in performance as well, and as long as you're not trying to drive low impedance devices there was less tangible benefit of A2 over A1.
For me, this pretty much sums up everything that's to be said about that topic.
Very Very nice -- I'm surrounded by MG MIdgets , MGB and MGC Roadsters , GTs and V8's at my work !! ( Trade Export dept MG Owners Club , UK )It is my friend's. Has had some brake and suspension upgrades but otherwise stock.