[Jason Stoddard]

Would you ever consider on doing a budget OTL (not hybrid) tube amp in a magni form factor? Is something like that even possible, budget-wise?

Unfortunately not feasible, heat- or power supply-wise. It'd be fleapower if done--like maybe single-digit milliwatts--and still run smoking hot.

 

[Jason Stoddard]

Dualit 4 slicer, made in the U.K., with timer - to match your Schiit gear -

We have a Dualit in Texas. Copper 2-slice. Love the timer. Also love the owner's manual: THIS IS NOT AN UNATTENDED APPLIANCE! RISK OF FIRE!

 

[Sheep3000]

We have a Dualit in Texas. Copper 2-slice. Love the timer. Also love the owner's manual: THIS IS NOT AN UNATTENDED APPLIANCE! RISK OF FIRE!

Yes but is it class A?
Actually that gets me thinking, could your continuity circuit design be applied to a toaster?
And another thing, what specific things did you change, parts/design-wise from the OG MM with the MM2?

 

[chesebert]

So… when can expect to see a single ended class A headphone amp from Scchiit that is built around single gain stage power MOSFET?

 

[adias]

We have a Dualit in Texas. Copper 2-slice. Love the timer. Also love the owner's manual: THIS IS NOT AN UNATTENDED APPLIANCE! RISK OF FIRE!

Any thoughts about finessing the preamps' (in my case Freya S) remote control response? Even the slightest volume press triggers a flurry of volume clicks. Maybe insert a little delay in response and each click be 2 volume steps (about 1.25dB)?

 

[dr cornelius]

On-Off topic - Who remembers the epic, unrivalled Sunbeam Radiant Control Toaster ?

My parents had one of those, I think it was a wedding present. It lasted a very long time.

 

[adydula]

We have a Dualit in Texas. Copper 2-slice. Love the timer. Also love the owner's manual: THIS IS NOT AN UNATTENDED APPLIANCE! RISK OF FIRE!

Wait for it....

A Schiit toaster with ASSY in the USA on one side and "Class T" on the other!
T=Toast

 

[Ripper2860]

I'm hoping against hope for a Unison USB connected coffee grinder and espresso maker.

 

[xTrIpX]

Yes but is it class A?
Actually that gets me thinking, could your continuity circuit design be applied to a toaster?
And another thing, what specific things did you change, parts/design-wise from the OG MM with the MM2?

Or a better question. Does it have bluetooth and it's own dedicated toaster app?

 

[JohnnyCanuck]

Wait for it....

A Schiit toaster with ASSY in the USA on one side and "Class T" on the other!
T=Toast

Sorry to burst your bubble:

A Class T amplifier is an audio amplifier IC design. Rather than being a separate “class” of the amplifier, Class T is a registered trademark for Tripath's amplifier technologies. The control signals in Class T amplifiers may be computed using digital signal processing or fully analog techniques.


JC

 

[liamo]

Schiit - the most in coasters and toasters, class A chicken roasters.

 

[scotdouglas]

I've found a few more audio challenges to chew on before we get to toasters. You'll see one this year, hopefully in February.

But, conservatively, we have several years of blowing up heads on the audio side of things before we start looking for other stuff to play with.

If you can create a toaster that doesn't need a smoke detector to signal when the toast is done, I'm in.

 

[adydula]

Sorry to burst your bubble:

A Class T amplifier is an audio amplifier IC design. Rather than being a separate “class” of the amplifier, Class T is a registered trademark for Tripath's amplifier technologies. The control signals in Class T amplifiers may be computed using digital signal processing or fully analog techniques.


JC

Ok lets amend that to Class ST....
Schiit Toast.

:>)

 

[adydula]

@Jason Stoddard

Well no-one has "bit" on the "BOTC or BITG" in one of my lame posts.

Well if you go all the way back in Schiit time :

Christmas Presents Until the End of Time?

“So, do you think it’ll go? Do you think they’ll sell?” Mike Moffat asked, looking at the first assembled Asgard on the engineering bench in my garage. He was being Mike-fidgety, rocking from heel to heel in the small, chilly space.

“Well, on paper it looks good,” I told him. “But you know how that works. They’ll either sell, or we’ll have Christmas presents until the end of time.”

Somewhere in my pictures stash I have a picture of a person I think of sitting on the hood of a corvette in a garage....hmmm? Cant find it.

So Asgard OG back then was a BITG = "Built In the Garage"
or
BOTC = "Built on the Corvette"...

Another futile attempt to share the early years...

The Corvette was hot and so was the Asgards back then!

:>)

 

[ArmchairPhilosopher]

Any thoughts about finessing the preamps' (in my case Freya S) remote control response? Even the slightest volume press triggers a flurry of volume clicks. Maybe insert a little delay in response and each click be 2 volume steps (about 1.25dB)?

Not as long as they use a motorized potentiometer for the volume knob.

The microcontroller in your Freya uses the pot's resistance to determine the volume level. If it senses that the resistance goes down, it'll switch the volume relays so that the resistor array attenuates the incoming audio signal less —and vice versa. It's essentially still a more or less fully analog volume control, even though there's a microcontroller in there managing the state of the relays for the resistor array.
(Disclaimer: This is an educated guess. I've never looked at my Freya's circuit, but I have a strong hunch that this is how it's implemented based on how Freya's volume control management generally behaves. If I'm wrong with the above assumption, some of the following will of course be incorrect as well.)

The problem you're describing has very little to do with your remote triggering too long a signal but is more of an effect of the motorized potentiometer's inertia. It simply takes a little bit of time for that little motor in the potentiometer to get going. And once it does, it takes a little bit of time to stop again. Have the microcontroller send out its "turn up a bit" signal for a shorter duration, and you might not see the potentiometer move much at all because the little motor won't have enough time to rev up and overcome the pot's mechanical resistance enough to move the shaft for a meaningful enough distance. Make that signal even just slightly longer, and you end up giving the motor just enough time to get going, but now you have to deal with its inertia.
Oh, and not all pots are perfectly alike, even if they're of the same type. So you would have to find a way to calibrate this whole thing on a per-pot basis.
And even if you can somehow perfectly time the motor signal duration to ensure just two or three "volume steps", it'll all go out the window the second your operating temperature changes. You might have noticed that your Freya sometimes clicks its volume relays for no apparent reason? Yeah, that's because the microcontroller saw the volume pot's resistance change a tiny bit even without you touching anything, probably because the thing got a little warmer.

To do what you ask for, it would have to work the other way around: The microcontroller would have to store a "master volume value" and each press of the remote would increase or decrease that volume value by a fixed amount. Then you would be able to precisely control the attenuation state of your Freya's resistor ladder. But you would also lose the ability to use an analog volume knob. Because motorized pots don't "know" what position they're at, the microcontroller can't just change a number internally and then "tell" the potentiometer to turn itself to the exact position that would correspond to that volume level. So you would have to either replace the volume control with tactile buttons or some form of rotary encoder for volume changes on Freya itself. Not really sure how "sexy" that would be as a product.

Also, the number of relay clicks you hear are not necessarily equal to the number of volume steps. In most cases, more than one relay has to switch for just a single step in attenuation. Think of how you count up or down in binary, where often more than just 0->1 or 1->0 flip occurs for a single step up or down. The relays in Freya do the same, and they don't all switch perfectly simultaneously.

As an aside:
I'm not using Schiit's remote for my Freya. I appreciate that the one Freya comes with is machined from a block of aluminum, and that's a nice touch. Especially when you compare what you get from Schiit to the 10 cent plastic monstrosities you're presented with from other audio gear manufacturers.
But I still don't like the blister buttons, and I don't want to have yet another remote control sit on my coffee table.
Instead, I am using my Apple TV's remote to control my Freya+.
Apple TV lets you program the volume up, volume down, and mute buttons on the Apple TV's remote. So I programmed mine to control Freya's volume, and I am using the mute button on the remote to toggle through my Freya's output modes. I never use Freya's mute function anyway, and by "misappropriating" the mute button to switch output modes, I don't have to get up when I want to switch from passive (which is what I use for watching TV most of the time) to tube gain mode, which is what I use for some TV shows and most of my music listening.
I also think the volume up and down signals the Apple TV remove sends out may be a wee bit shorter than what the Schiit remote emits. At least I feel as I have a tiny bit more control over how much the volume goes up or down with the Apple TV remote. But that could also be an effect of it having proper tactile buttons, not just a somewhat flimsy sheet of blistered plastic. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯