PolarBehr
100+ Head-Fier
- Joined
- Dec 24, 2016
- Posts
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- 303
Get green. Be different.
Does that make it “GREEN” power? Do you get a carbon tax credit with them? =)
Get green. Be different.
I use QuietRockOf all the audiophile gadgets I have ever come across, this is the least compelling. But if Furutech were to start making audiophile drywall, I'd be all over that...
I was very disappointed when Fuji stopped making the film packs for the Polaroid’s. I still have a few packs left myself. I was hoping that the Polaroid Project might start producing it, but they seem to be concentrating on the one step film instead. I do have a couple of SX-70’s, but the 250 is my favorite. That Zeiss finder!I have 1/2 a case of Fuji Film packs for my working Poloroid 250 Land Camera.
I'm a bit of a vintage camera collector.
Don't ask me about all of my vintage lenses
There's nothing in their literature stating it's been quantum-tunneled. Maybe they offer a premium version?I use QuietRock
https://www.quietrock.com/
Tell this to Paul McGowan…
But here's the most important point about it all:
The ground hole goes UP, not down.
Sounds SO much better.
(Also, that's actually how it's specified in NECA 130-2010. As a former German, I can not help but cringe at this widespread ignorance of rules and recommendations in power socket installation! )
I just realized that PS Audio apparently hates their customers… People who buy PS Audio tend to be rather towards the objectivist end of the spectrum, and objectivists tend to be of the more anally retentive kind. So, let's say you buy a PS Audio Power Port and you want to install it to code, you'd have to install it with the ground hole up. But then you'd have to look at the writing on the socket being upside down. So you have to make a choice: Install it to code, or to have the text legible. But you can never have both. Poor objectivists!
OhYou know they will. Some swear by different outlet covers. I don't think my system is at the level I would notice, yet. Easier tweak is to put a photograph of yourself in the freezer and then notice the change in the sound of your system.
The freezer-photo tweak has no effect on the dog's hearing. However, the longer @Ableza leaves the two photos in the freezer, the less alike he and his dog will look. Kind of like reverse aging.Ooo, I have not tried the freezer-photo tweak. What is the supposed effect? And what if I put a photo of MY DOG in there too?!??
I tried cryo-freezing my ears. I was skeptical, so I started with only one ear as a test. Now I keep my ear in a box. I keep my thinking inside that box too, now.Pfft. Why piddle around. Just Cryo your ears and be done with it. Geez Louise - come on, folks. Think outside the box.
And come on. If the grounds were on the top of the outlet, we'd have to place all our gear upside down in our racks. That's just silly.
It's worse than that: you've been no longer hip, and now you're hip again.You trying to tell me I'm no longer hip?
Is that a Dorian Grey reference? Or does it mean I'm aging my dog unnecessarily?The freezer-photo tweak has no effect on the dog's hearing. However, the longer @Ableza leaves the two photos in the freezer, the less alike he and his dog will look. Kind of like reverse aging.
That I want to try. What's the best way to buy a dog?The freezer-photo tweak has no effect on the dog's hearing. However, the longer @Ableza leaves the two photos in the freezer, the less alike he and his dog will look. Kind of like reverse aging.
All that said, I run Vidars in mono mode into 4 ohm Magnepan LRS. In over a year I've only had one Vidar go into overheat protection one time.Running Vidar in mono mode into 4 ohms is akin to Vidar in stereo mode with 2 ohm loads, which puts extreme demands on an amplifier designed for efficiency into 8 ohm stereo loads, hence Vidar not rated for either of these load conditions.
Headphone amps can run drive a wider range of load impedances because the overall power output is much much lower (the higher impedance cans like 300 and 600 ohm units typically employ high efficiency 100~110dB/mW dynamic drivers).
More main filter capacitance means greater energy storage, lower PSU impedance, lower AC ripple. Presumably, each Tyr will have a 600VA transformer (1200VA for a stereo pair vs 600VA in a stereo Vidar). Twice the heatsink area would allow twice the standing bias dissipation of Vidar, so more finesse on low level signals than Vidar (think Aegir on steroids)
My guess the answer is, like Jason once said:Cross-post from the Two Channel Clubhouse thread:
From the above I see some proposed numbers for Tyr:
- 200W into 8, and 400W into 4 ohms
- "only" 160,000 uF main filter capacitance...but also with the massive input choke.
Which I compare to Vidar published specs:
Stereo, 8 Ohms: 100W RMS per channel
Stereo, 4 Ohms: 200W RMS per channel
Mono, 8 ohms: 400W RMS
And from the FAQs:
600VA transformer and 40,000uF of filter capacitance—20,000 for each channel
Can anyone comment on this comparison? Tyr 200W into 8 vs. Vidar in mono, 400W into 8? 160,000 uF main filter capacitance for Tyr vs. 40,000uF for Vidar? Tyr rated to 4 ohms and Vidar mono specifcally not? I'm running mono Vidars so I'm curious.