[Brubacca]

Sounds like Asgard gets me the ability to add really good/expensive for me headphones. Magnius is still an unknown based on it barely being released.

 

[oryan_dunn]

I humbly present this C8 mod concept to Jason.


It makes one badass looking racecar. Image taken at this years Roar before the Daytona 24hr race.

Schiit should sponsor a car... could be called a SchiitBox

 

[dajokr]

Thanks all for the input a few pages back regarding speaker and amplifier pairings. As I've done some more research, I am still curious about the finer points of matching gear. For example, I was also looking at Kef Q950 speakers, and wondered what the best pairing would be with Schiit gear? Specifically, with an 8 ohm // 15-200W // 91 dB sensitivity:

- A single Vidar (100W RMS per channel into 8 ohms) seems like it would be too underpowered to drive both effectively, but two mono Vidars (400W RMS) seems way overpowered? Or does a pre-amp help in the case of the single Vidar?
- If going with the two monoblocks and all that power, I would assume you have a very small range on the volume pot before you'd be worried about overdriving the speakers.

Sorry if these are dumb questions, just not intuitively getting the math of matching source and speaker yet. Thanks!

 

[tincanear]

Thanks all for the input a few pages back regarding speaker and amplifier pairings. As I've done some more research, I am still curious about the finer points of matching gear. For example, I was also looking at Kef Q950 speakers, and wondered what the best pairing would be with Schiit gear? Specifically, with an 8 ohm // 15-200W // 91 dB sensitivity:

- A single Vidar (100W RMS per channel into 8 ohms) seems like it would be too underpowered to drive both effectively, but two mono Vidars (400W RMS) seems way overpowered? Or does a pre-amp help in the case of the single Vidar?
- If going with the two monoblocks and all that power, I would assume you have a very small range on the volume pot before you'd be worried about overdriving the speakers.

Sorry if these are dumb questions, just not intuitively getting the math of matching source and speaker yet. Thanks!

Amp and speaker choice depends on type of music you listen to, preferred volume level, and a few other factors. The general rule is to determine the overall budget first, select the speakers, then the electronics (not the other way around).

the KEFs are pretty efficient at 91 dB/Watt (@ 1m) and relatively easy to drive. a smoke detector is in the range of 90dB. amplifier power and volume isn't linear, but is logarithmic, and needs a doubling of power for 3dB increase in volume, 4x the power for 6dB increase. In general, most tower full-range speakers will be fine with an amp rated between 20 and 100 Wpc. Think how hot a 60W incandescent (old school) light bulb gets (and that includes some energy actually emitted as visible light). 400W (monoblock vidar) is something more suited for a large (say 13" or 15" high-excursion subwoofer designed for high power) and would damage or fry the voice coils in the Q950 if run at rated power.

If you listen at low to moderate listening volumes, esp for classical, jazz, choral ensemble, acapella and other full acoustical instrument (and unamplified / unprocessed voice) recordings, the 20Wpc Aegir will have more finesse than more powerful amplifiers in the same price range. Amplifiers like Aegir and Vidar require a separate pre-amp (like sys (passive), Saga, and Freya series).

I have listened to the Freya S pre-amp (very good sound quality), which uses the same Nexus technology as the Ragnarok 2 (which I personally have not heard, so I cannot give my $0.02 on the sound quality) but looks to be a very good integrated unit using top-quality parts and build and has 60Wpc.

the KEFs also feature UNI-Q, with the tweeter coincident within the midrange for improved inter-driver time alignment, which is a plus in my book. I have some small 4" KEFs used for 5.1 TV surround sound (5.1 receiver is rated ~ 45Wpc which is more than adequate for these small drivers) along with a single 12" powered subwoofer.

Note that if looking at some powered sub-woofers for comparison, some mfr's will rate the sub's onboard amp in peak Watts, with the actual RMS continuous short-term capability at one-third to one-half the peak value.

 

[High Rant District]

A question for those of you who have heard a Saga or Freya: have you been bothered by the clicking of the relay-stepped attenuator?

I recently purchased a Saga S and haven't been bothered by the clicking. It's different, I'm old and I don't like change... but oddly enough it doesn't bother me.

If it were like "nails on a chalkboard" to my better half, though, I'd consider a change of gear. I have a hard enough time as it is getting her to sit and enjoy music with me.

 

[dajokr]

Amp and speaker choice depends on type of music you listen to, preferred volume level, and a few other factors. The general rule is to determine the overall budget first, select the speakers, then the electronics (not the other way around).

the KEFs are pretty efficient at 91 dB/Watt (@ 1m) and relatively easy to drive. a smoke detector is in the range of 90dB. amplifier power and volume isn't linear, but is logarithmic, and needs a doubling of power for 3dB increase in volume, 4x the power for 6dB increase. In general, most tower full-range speakers will be fine with an amp rated between 20 and 100 Wpc. Think how hot a 60W incandescent (old school) light bulb gets (and that includes some energy actually emitted as visible light). 400W (monoblock vidar) is something more suited for a large (say 13" or 15" high-excursion subwoofer designed for high power) and would damage or fry the voice coils in the Q950 if run at rated power.

If you listen at low to moderate listening volumes, esp for classical, jazz, choral ensemble, acapella and other full acoustical instrument (and unamplified / unprocessed voice) recordings, the 20Wpc Aegir will have more finesse than more powerful amplifiers in the same price range. Amplifiers like Aegir and Vidar require a separate pre-amp (like sys (passive), Saga, and Freya series).

I have listened to the Freya S pre-amp (very good sound quality), which uses the same Nexus technology as the Ragnarok 2 (which I personally have not heard, so I cannot give my $0.02 on the sound quality) but looks to be a very good integrated unit using top-quality parts and build and has 60Wpc.

the KEFs also feature UNI-Q, with the tweeter coincident within the midrange for improved inter-driver time alignment, which is a plus in my book. I have some small 4" KEFs used for 5.1 TV surround sound (5.1 receiver is rated ~ 45Wpc which is more than adequate for these small drivers) along with a single 12" powered subwoofer.

Note that if looking at some powered sub-woofers for comparison, some mfr's will rate the sub's onboard amp in peak Watts, with the actual RMS continuous short-term capability at one-third to one-half the peak value.

Thanks for the response. If using a Freya+, would you recommend a single or dual Aegir setup for these speakers?

 

[tincanear]

Thanks for the response. If using a Freya+, would you recommend a single or dual Aegir setup for these speakers?

what are your listening preferences? type of music you like? general listening volume?

note some other users have tried dual Aegirs with their setups and preferred the sound of a single Aegir. there are some recent reviews this and also of Ragnarok 2 on this thread.

 

[Timster]

I have been wanting Planar Magnetics and have heard and liked the OPPO PM-3.

The Oppos are getting harder to find now that they are not making them anymore. I have the PM-3 and PM-2 and they are both great, but the PM-3 being sealed let's me take it on the road. If you can can find a pair, I'd snap them up.

 

[dajokr]

what are your listening preferences? type of music you like? general listening volume?

note some other users have tried dual Aegirs with their setups and preferred the sound of a single Aegir. there are some recent reviews this and also of Ragnarok 2 on this thread.

Classical, acoustic music, jazz, folk. Some classic rock and Prog. I generally listen at a moderate level, but would listen at a volume approximating ‘live’ if I had a rig that would handle it with the appropriate clarity, detail, and soundstage. Certainly not looking to turn it up to 11, and I don’t at all like metal and other ‘loud’ heavy music.

Probably not helpful - I don’t have a sense for what dB I listen at. I prefer finesse over force, but want the music to have the appropriate amount of presence.

All that said, I’ll take the good advice here and put the speakers first, then fill in the rest around them. Schiit’s return policy certainly makes it easy to recover if I don’t get a good match at first.

 

[Licht]

A question for those of you who have heard a Saga or Freya: have you been bothered by the clicking of the relay-stepped attenuator?

I bought a Freya S to replace a vintage Macintosh pre, and one of the primary reasons was the relay-stepped attenuator, since the Mac implementation had some issues with noise of operation and channel balance.

I like to play music "concert loud", but I also like my gear to be silent, and to play quiet music very well. I did a lot of research, and learned from Schiit that Freya "makes cool clicking noises when you turn the knob". I read no complaints from reviewers/users, and imagined a relatively quiet mechanical click. However, I'm finding the sound to be more like a "scratch". Even if I'm careful to only advance one step, which is tricky with either the knob or the remote, it is still an annoying sound that can only be ignored when the music is high volume. By "scratchy" I mean that I expected a discreet click, with sharp attack and decay, and this is fuzzier in an unpleasant way. My wife likened it to "nails on a chalk board". Can anyone else chime in on this issue? In every other way I am thrilled with the unit's performance.

While we're at it, I made this purchase in part to run dual Vidars (my first foray into balanced gear), and I bought it before the release of the Magnius. With its balance pre out and "Blue Velvet" 27mm Alps pot, I'm wondering if the Magnius might be a good alternative. I can live without the remote. Thoughts? Heck, I might even get some balanced headphones!

dhcarquinez

I love clicking but my OG Freya initially had actual scratch.
The knob was set too much further into the shaft and the knob was actually scratching on the main body of Freya. Just unscrewed the screw on the knob and pulled the knob slightly out, and screwed again, solved.

 

[earnmyturns]

Can balanced really be that much better

No. The best headphone amp I've owned under $2K (I've owned a few) was the single-ended Schiit Lyr 3. It's arguable that some Schiit DACs do better in their balanced outputs. But the difference is not huge, at least on the Yggdrasil I own.

 

[Licht]

The Oppos are getting harder to find now that they are not making them anymore. I have the PM-3 and PM-2 and they are both great, but the PM-3 being sealed let's me take it on the road. If you can can find a pair, I'd snap them up.

PM3s are very nice and you can use balanced cable. (TRRS)

 

[earnmyturns]

Sounds like Asgard gets me the ability to add really good/expensive for me headphones. Magnius is still an unknown based on it barely being released.

I've never listened to the Asgard 3, but specs, commentary across various forums, and price make it seem a really strong contender. It has enough muscle to drive demanding planars like the Æon 2 (the hardest-to-drive headphones I've owned) and yet it should work well with a variety of dynamics as well. I've gone well off the deep end on headphones, but the first ones I owned, Shure SRH1540, (which went to my daughter several years ago) is still surprisingly capable for a < $500 closed headphone.

 

[Rensek]

Thanks all for the input a few pages back regarding speaker and amplifier pairings. As I've done some more research, I am still curious about the finer points of matching gear. For example, I was also looking at Kef Q950 speakers, and wondered what the best pairing would be with Schiit gear? Specifically, with an 8 ohm // 15-200W // 91 dB sensitivity:

- A single Vidar (100W RMS per channel into 8 ohms) seems like it would be too underpowered to drive both effectively, but two mono Vidars (400W RMS) seems way overpowered? Or does a pre-amp help in the case of the single Vidar?
- If going with the two monoblocks and all that power, I would assume you have a very small range on the volume pot before you'd be worried about overdriving the speakers.

Sorry if these are dumb questions, just not intuitively getting the math of matching source and speaker yet. Thanks!

I drove some 8 ohm 90-91db wharfedales for about a year before upgrading speakers. I drove those speakers hard off one vidar, to the point of brief over excursion on one woofer, on one bass heavy track

I had my wharfedales doing 105 DB average from 30-35 feet away with Vidar. Paired with Saga I never heard Vidar go into clipping.

It has tons of power, and will do far more then what its rated into 8ohms before clipping.

 

[EELawson]

Thanks for the response. If using a Freya+, would you recommend a single or dual Aegir setup for these speakers?

You can always buy one Aejir, then add a second, if needed.

I run Aejir monoblocks into 88 db efficiency speakers (with a Freya+) and am very happy. SQ is fantastic. Plenty of power.