I'm not with the 4 tube thing either. Much better to go with 6. Per channel.
Holy mother of cable risers!
I'm not with the 4 tube thing either. Much better to go with 6. Per channel.
Oh, I do NOT see six ceramic insulators holding up speaker cable. That is all kinds of aural-enhancing, thermal-isolating, convective-cooling, honey-don't-singe-the-carpet-AGAIN, you-do-what-you-like strangeness. +1, @bcowen ...I'm not with the 4 tube thing either. Much better to go with 6. Per channel.
A while back, I think you did indeed suggest that on this thread. I tried that. And yes, it did indeed cool the chassis right down. All was well until my bloody cats knocked the glass tubes askew... every... screwing night. As an uptight science teacher, that asymmetrical condition bugged me and I removed them. Hence, I had better make my peace with hot knobs.Get a set of Socket savers for front and back tubes. You'll be amazed at how much cooler it runs by lifting those hot tubes up a bit. Made a huge difference in my case.
I'm not with the 4 tube thing either. Much better to go with 6. Per channel.
{{...one of these days, I'll get used to the amount of heat that beast gives off... and not freak out touching a hot volume knob}}
not cable risers, but one of the following:
1) just some leftover parts from some mad-scientist experiment
2) the entire neighborhood around his house is blacked out because someone removed the insulators from the power poles and the wiring shorted out
Oh, I do NOT see six ceramic insulators holding up speaker cable. That is all kinds of aural-enhancing, thermal-isolating, convective-cooling, honey-don't-singe-the-carpet-AGAIN, you-do-what-you-like strangeness. +1, @bcowen ...
Ha! I have this vision of @bcowen climbing telephone poles in the middle of the night to 'commandeer' insulators for a 'higher purpose'
Getting near -100dB THD+N with 60dB of gain…yes, this is doable.
The coronavirus situation may set some plans back. We'll see.
A while back, I think you did indeed suggest that on this thread. I tried that. And yes, it did indeed cool the chassis right down. All was well until my bloody cats knocked the glass tubes askew... every... screwing night. As an uptight science teacher, that asymmetrical condition bugged me and I removed them. Hence, I had better make my peace with hot knobs.
{{{Pssh, I'll survive}}}
I use this oneSpeaking of volume knobs, I just did what I could call an “enhanced visibility” mod
I use this one
Chapter 27:
Twilight of the Gods—Ragnarok from 2009 Until Today
Which pointed at the software.
“Dave, how frequently are you adjusting the bias on Ragnarok?” I asked, trying to get to the bottom of our mysteries.
“Frequently?” Dave blinked, looking mystified.
“Yes. Once a second, once every tenth of a second?”
“Once,” Dave said.
“Once? Once once?”
“Yeah, when you turn it on. Or when you switch gain modes.”
“Once?” I cried. “And then you let it go?”
“Yes,” Dave said. “But the operational point trends downward with temperature, so it’s safe.”
“Unless it gets so low the bias is turned off,” I said. Suddenly the crap-sounding Ragnarok started to make a lot more sense.
Dave nodded. “Well, there is that.”
Argh. “Dave, it has to adjust continuously, over time.”
“But then you have to parse out the difference between output current into a load for a music signal, and quiescent operating point.”
I nodded. “Exactly. But that’s what we intended to do from the start.”
Dave nodded, but fell silent. “That’s a lot harder.”
“Right.”
“I need to do some more work.”
“Right!”
A few more weeks went past, since I was tied up with other products, other problems. Eventually, Dave and I got together with new software…and a surprise from Dave.
“I also added debugging code so we can see the output current and the voltage out from the DACs at all times,” Dave said.
And, sure enough, the Ragnarok control board sprouted a new connector: an ancient DB-9 computer port. This, Dave hooked up to a computer. Soon, numbers were scrolling on the screen, updated about once a second.
“This is the output current,” Dave said. “This is the other channel. And this number is the DAC output, from 0-4096.”
“Neat!” I said. Which is true. This was an insanely helpful tool to debug Ragnarok.
“But, uh, Dave,” I added, pointing at the output current, which had risen from 250 mA to 300, then 400, then 550…”
“Oh,” Dave said, switching it off. “It hasn’t done that before. Did you change something? Maybe it’s not adjusting fast enough.”
I had changed something—the driver current. Which meant they were heating up at a different rate. Which the firmware couldn’t compensate for.
“Can it adjust faster?” I asked.
“Sure,” Dave said. He changed a few lines of code, and we restarted the Ragnarok. This time, the output current rose over 250mA, but more slowly. But it still wanted to run away.
“I can change it so that it adjusts faster, the farther it is away from the target,” Dave said. A few lines of code later, and we had an amp that didn’t overshoot the target by more than 10% before settling down to a nice, constant 250mA.
For those with audio nervosa about where the volume is set, now you can close your eyes, adjust for best listening pleasure, then stick the arrow on at 12 o'clock, and live happily ever after.Speaking of volume knobs, I just did what I could call an “enhanced visibility” mod