[automojo]

I like Wireworld cables, and have been using the exclusively for the last couple years.
I can hear a difference for sure, particularly in the USB cable Ultraviolet).
Having said that, I wasn’t commenting on the quality of the cable, just the fact that cables do go bad, (even though it’s not super common these days) no matter who they manufacture quality stuff happens-especially if they’re connected and reconnected numerous times/ etc.

 

[The Hawk]

Anyone have issues with noise when connecting to the 2/64 via USB? The past few days I start to get intermittent audio crackles and pops that are about 12-15 dB less than the music playing. It sounds very similar to surface noise you might get from a record. It sometimes resolves itself when I restart my whole computer (the source feeding the BF2/64). I switched to using optical earlier today and haven't experienced any noise since.

Sounds like a computer issue if it’s resolving itself after a reboot.

Audio issues are not uncommon with USB outputs on computers and can be caused by a multitude of different things. If you Google search “audio crackles and pops usb audio” you’ll bring up lots of info and troubleshooting tricks to help resolve it. As an example, sometimes something as simple as updating a driver for your audio card can fix the problem

Good luck

 

[Ripper2860]

Anyone have issues with noise when connecting to the 2/64 via USB? The past few days I start to get intermittent audio crackles and pops that are about 12-15 dB less than the music playing. It sounds very similar to surface noise you might get from a record. It sometimes resolves itself when I restart my whole computer (the source feeding the BF2/64). I switched to using optical earlier today and haven't experienced any noise since.

Sound like it could be PC latency issues. Here are a couple of tools that may help identify if that is the issue...

https://www.resplendence.com/latencymon
https://www.softpedia.com/get/System/System-Info/DPC-Latency-Checker.shtml

Here's a util that solved it for me before I rebuilt my Windows computer and no longer needed it (still use it on my media server, however). They have a FREE version you can try to see if it resolves the issue, and then you can buy a more powerful version with the more expensive running as a service.

https://www.fidelizer-audio.com/

BTW -- the issue was way before my 2/64 upgrade, so it is not a 2/64-related matter.

 

[TheFrator]

Many thanks y'all.

https://www.drivereasy.com/knowledge/audio-or-sound-popping-on-windows-107-solved/ - I followed the first step on this URL and also disabled fast startup in the power settings of my computer and that appears to have resolved the issue (for now).

Sound like it could be PC latency issues. Here are a couple of tools that may help identify if that is the issue...

https://www.resplendence.com/latencymon
https://www.softpedia.com/get/System/System-Info/DPC-Latency-Checker.shtml

Here's a util that solved it for me before I rebuilt my Windows computer and no longer needed it (still use it on my media server, however). They have a FREE version you can try to see if it resolves the issue, and then you can buy a more powerful version with the more expensive running as a service.

https://www.fidelizer-audio.com/

I'll download these tools as a precaution in case this issue rears its head again. Thank you very much

 

[automojo]

Sweet!

 

[Ripper2860]

Windows Fast Startup writes much of the OS state to disk at shutdown and then reads it back on power-on to speed-up a cold boot. Nice in theory, but if you're having issues with the OS, you are not booting a clean OS. With this enabled and troubleshooting, a RESTART as opposed to SHUTDOWN is preferred as it will completely clear the OS and restart FRESH w/o reading the cached OS state. You can disable as advised or keep it enabled as I do and just understand that on occasion a RESTART as opposed to SHUTDOWN is what is needed.

 

[TheFrator]

@Ripper2860 - using the LatencyMon tool you linked to, my highest measured latency was 1100 microseconds over a 15 minute (which resulted in audible pops). I updated the BIOS on my computer (MSI X570 Gaming Edge Wifi MOBO) to the latest driver and have had LatencyMon running for the past 10 mins and am having much much lower average and maximum interrupt to process latency- down to 320 microseconds.

Thanks again for showing me the tool.

 

[decooney]

I had an Audioquest Cinnamon connected to it but I'll try another one and report back

@TheFrator Not sure if this helps, and I don't normally pass along info like this, but I have an Audioquest Cinnamon digit-coax sitting here now. I was comparing it to an Analysis Plus Digital Crystal and comparing again against a Cardas Clear Digital coax. Was floored just how bad the AQ Cinnamon was in comparison. Really did not expect that much of a gap with a digi-coax. AQ even sources some their better copper via Cardas too. Weird. If the USB Cinnamon is anything like the Digital-coax AQ Cinnamon I have now, try something else for sure. Best of luck.

 

[TheFrator]

@TheFrator Not sure if this helps, and I don't normally pass along info like this, but I have an Audioquest Cinnamon digit-coax sitting here now. I was comparing it to an Analysis Plus Digital Crystal and comparing again against a Cardas Clear Digital coax. Was floored just how bad the AQ Cinnamon was in comparison. Really did not expect that much of a gap with a digi-coax. AQ even sources some their better copper via Cardas too. Weird. If the USB Cinnamon is anything like the Digital-coax AQ Cinnamon I have now, try something else for sure. Best of luck.

thanks for letting me know. I purchased it used for $20 off the classifieds here as a bit of insurance. I'm running another USB-A to B cable at the moment since I've been too lazy to change the cable back to AQ after switching cables during troubleshooting. Given how stiff the AQ is, I would hesitate to recommend it to anyone and definitely not at MSRP.


So far so good and the process latency has remained much lower than it was after 4 hours of measuring. It was at 100 microseconds average before updating BIOS and now at 7.

 

[carbonF1]

@TheFrator Not sure if this helps, and I don't normally pass along info like this, but I have an Audioquest Cinnamon digit-coax sitting here now. I was comparing it to an Analysis Plus Digital Crystal and comparing again against a Cardas Clear Digital coax. Was floored just how bad the AQ Cinnamon was in comparison. Really did not expect that much of a gap with a digi-coax. AQ even sources some their better copper via Cardas too. Weird. If the USB Cinnamon is anything like the Digital-coax AQ Cinnamon I have now, try something else for sure. Best of luck.

Sadly I found the AQ Cinnamon USB a lot like your description, interesting to read the Cinnamon coax didn't play nice with Bifrost 2 either.

 

[decooney]

@carbonF1 Thanks for confirming that on your end. While I have tested more than a few cables I was not expecting this and was puzzled by it some. At first I thought maybe I just had a bad cable or something having owned other AQ cables in the past. This was an older one from 4-5 years ago I had lying around that got rotated out. Swapped back and forth a few times to check my own hearing. I've had other AQ cables in the past and nothing I'd say really stood out as a concern. I originally got it from a mainstream source provider brand new. I feel like I need to go buy a Mogami or Belden and compare again. My main system SDIF/Coax is all Cardas or Analysis Plus, fwiw.

 

[aj_brown_99]

I'm thinking of getting a Bifrost to replace my existing Modi Multibit. My rig is Lake People RS-08 → Hifiman Arya V2

I'm wondering which version to get, the 2 or 2/64. The Aryas are neutral-bright, resolving and spacious, and the Lake People amp (which is similar to the Violectric V100 but with balanced out) is "reference neutral". Overall I love the resolution and speed, but find the sound a little bit thin, "digital", and wish there were more weight in the bass and macrodynamics.

I've read that the Bifrost 2 is thicker, warmer and more mid-bass emphasis, vs. the 2/64 which is a bit brighter and faster. I'm wondering whether the 2 might be a better pairing with my existing setup, or am I over-thinking it?

I think the ideal move is to get a used BF2, then order the 2/64 upgrade card and return it if I prefer the original BF2 sound. But the OG BF2 is damn hard to get your hands on, they seem to sell in a day on classifieds.

 

[Runrunsmithfly]

Maybe a Modi Multibit 2 that's on the way, possibly tomorrow.

 

[Ripper2860]

I'm thinking of getting a Bifrost to replace my existing Modi Multibit. My rig is Lake People RS-08 → Hifiman Arya V2

I'm wondering which version to get, the 2 or 2/64. The Aryas are neutral-bright, resolving and spacious, and the Lake People amp (which is similar to the Violectric V100 but with balanced out) is "reference neutral". Overall I love the resolution and speed, but find the sound a little bit thin, "digital", and wish there were more weight in the bass and macrodynamics.

I've read that the Bifrost 2 is thicker, warmer and more mid-bass emphasis, vs. the 2/64 which is a bit brighter and faster. I'm wondering whether the 2 might be a better pairing with my existing setup, or am I over-thinking it?

I think the ideal move is to get a used BF2, then order the 2/64 upgrade card and return it if I prefer the original BF2 sound. But the OG BF2 is damn hard to get your hands on, they seem to sell in a day on classifieds.

Maybe you can reverse it. I'm sure there are folks selling the BF2 OG card after upgrading, so try a BF2/64 and buy an OG card on the market.

 

[cgb3]

Update: I was wrong, EDIT to my post above. Went out in the garage, pulled the box and checked. Mine DID in fact come with a small gauge power chord neatly tucked in the side-bottom of the box under the foam and plastic. Apparently I simply overlooked it choosing not to use it when I first opened the box and left it there. I stand corrected. Apologize for any confusion. Thx.

Please find my reply below.