[timwillhack]

 
[size=medium] I've been trying to find come recommendations to upgrade a tube amp I just bought that has a stock 6N1.  I read that there are ones that will fit but are not made for it due to various differences.[/size]
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[size=medium] They post a link to an article that is dead, so I used the wayback machine to post it in the forums preparing for the post-apocalyptic future![/size]
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[size=medium] Original thread:[/size]
[size=medium] http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/191958/recommend-tubes-for-xiangsheng[/size]
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Quote from  mirumu:

For the 6N1

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> 6N1P (This is similar to the 6N11/6DJ8/6922 but they are not interchangable without circuit changes. See page for details of the differences) 

 
The page is no longer in service so here is what it used to contain:
 
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[size=medium] [size=large]6DJ8, 6922, 6N1P etc. compared[/size][/size]

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[size=x-small]Since some time there is a Russian tube on the American and West-European market with the code 6H1Pi that is translated 6N1P. This tube is sometimes called the equivalent for 6DJ8/ECC88 or 6922/E88CC. We find this incorrectly![/size] [size=x-small]Unfortunately will the notion "equivalent" not be interpreted the same by everybody. According to us, must a tube which can be used as equivalent, be at least for 95% have the same parameters as the tube he must replace. And of course 100% pin compatible. So is for instance a 6DJ8 wich is made in the sixties by Philips (in the Netherlands) for an American colleague, exactly the same as their ECC88 sold on the European market. Only the imprint is different.[/size] [size=x-small]Of course is the 6N1P pin compatible with 6DJ8, ECC88, 6922, 7308, E88CC etc.. Also the Mu is almost te same, 35 instead of 33.[/size] [size=x-small]Unfortunately there are a few parameters differently, such as the mutual conductance, internal resistance and maximum anode voltage. You can see that in the table below. Also the heating current is not the same, it's even 100% more, then the other types. With a large enough power transformer that shall be no problem, but it is something to care about.[/size] [size=x-small]Also the characteristics are not the same and therefore the bias point is rather different. That is an important reason wherefore it can not replace in all times a 6DJ8 etc.. Especially on a rather low tension, for intance about 90V (or lower) works the 6N1P not goed or even not at all. On tensions above 150V, if the idle current is correct this tube can give very good results. Especially the High Rel version 6N1P-EV has already astonished many people, because it came in a few circuits to better result then famous brands like Mullard, Philips etc.. And that for about 1/4 of the price! These performances are very dependable of circuit and anode tension.[/size]

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	6DJ8				7308
	ECC88	E88CC	6922	6N1P	E188CC
Vh	6,3	6,3	6,3	6,3	6,3	V
Ih	0,3	0,3	0,3	0,6	0,335	A
Va	90	90	100	250	100	V
Ia	15	15	15	7,5	15	mA
-Vg1	1.3		1.5	4.5		V
S	12.5	12.5	12.5	4.4	12.5	mA/V
µ	33	33	33	35	33
Ri	2.64	2.64	2.64	4.4	2.64	k Ohm
Req.	300	300	300		250	Ohm
Va max.	130	220	220	300	250	V
Ik max.	20		20	25	22	mA
Pa max.	1.8	2.0 / 1.5	2.0 / 1.5		2.0 / 1.65	W
Rg1 max.	1.0	1.0	1.0	1.0	1.0	M Ohm

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[size=x-small]If you design your own circuits or do modifications on existing equipment, this can be a very interesting tube. There exist till now no versions with goldpins. The plane 6N1P has the usual dull grey pins, the 6N1P-EV has nickle plated pins, such as the Russian 6922 and 12AX7WA.[/size]

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Per: http://www.geofex.com/tubeampfaq/taffram.htm
 

[size=medium] *** SAFETY WARNING *** READ THIS FIRST!!!!![/size]

[size=medium] Working inside a tube amplifier can be dangerous if you don't know the basic safety practices for this kind of work. If you aren't prepared to take the time to learn and apply the right precautions to keep yourself safe, don't work on your own amp. You can seriously injure yourself or get yourself killed. This section is not intended to be a complete guide to safety in tube equipment, just to hit the high points as refresher for those of you who have some experience. The best way to learn the requirements and practices for safety in tube equipment is to find someone who will teach you one on one.[/size]

[size=medium] BASIC REQUIREMENTS[/size]

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1. 1. UNPLUG IT FIRST Pretty self explanatory. Do not, ever, ever, leave the equipment plugged in and start work on it unless you specifically intend to make some live-voltage measurement. Leaving it plugged in guarantees that you will have hazardous voltages inside the chassis where you are about to work. This is like setting a trap for yourself.
   2. LET IT DRAIN If the amp has been turned on recently, the caps will still have some high voltage left in them after the switch is turned off. Let it sit for five minutes after you turn it off.
   3. SUCK IT DRY When you open up an amp, you need to find a way to drain off any residual high voltage. A handy way to do this is to connect a shorting jumper between the plate of a preamp tube and ground. This jumper will drain any high voltage to ground through the 50k to 100K plate resistor on the tube. To do this successfully, you will need to know which pins are the plate pins. Look it up for the amp you're going to be working on. You'll need to know this for the work anyway. Leave the jumper in place while you do your work ( high voltage electrolytics caps can "regrow" voltage like a battery sometimes. Really. ) Remember to remove it when you finish your work.
   4. TEST IT Take your multimeter and ground the (-) lead. Probe the high voltage caps and be sure the voltage across them is down, preferably to less than 10V.
   5. BUTTON IT BACK UP FIRST Take the shorting jumper out. Put the chassis back in the cabinet, making sure all of your tools, stray bits of solder, wire, etc. are out of it. You don't have to actually put all the screws and so forth back in if you believe more work might be needed, but make sure that the chassis is sitting stably in the cabinet and won't fall out. At the end of a listening test, either continue buttoning up if you're done, or go back to UNPLUG IT FIRST.

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Here is another set of info of drop in replacements from:
http://giaime.altervista.org/china_eng.html
 
Refer to each row for set of similar tubes:
 
 
 

[size=small]US[/size]	[size=small]European[/size]	[size=small]Chinese[/size]	[size=small]Russian[/size]	[size=small]Premium Model[/size]
[size=small]6DJ8[/size]	[size=small]ECC88[/size]	[size=small]6N23[/size]	[size=small]6N23P[/size]	[size=small]CCa[/size]
[size=small]6922[/size]	[size=small]E88CC[/size]	[size=small]6N11[/size]	[size=small]6N23P-EV[/size]	[size=small] -[/size]
[size=small]6SN7[/size]	[size=small]6SN7[/size]	[size=small]6N8[/size]	[size=small]6N8P - 6CC10[/size]	[size=small]B65, 5692[/size]
[size=small]6SL7[/size]	[size=small]6SL7[/size]	[size=small]6N9[/size]	[size=small]6N9P[/size]	[size=small]5691, 6SU7[/size]
[size=small]6267[/size]	[size=small]EF86[/size]	[size=small]6J8[/size]	[size=small]6J32P[/size]	[size=small]Z729, EF806S[/size]
[size=small]5687[/size]	[size=small]5687[/size]	[size=small]6N12[/size]	[size=small]-[/size]	[size=small]5687WA[/size]
[size=small]-[/size]	[size=small]ECC40*[/size]	[size=small]6N1[/size]	[size=small]6N1P[/size]	[size=small]6N1P-EV[/size]
[size=small]6AX7[/size]	[size=small]-[/size]	[size=small]6N2[/size]	[size=small]6N2P / 6SS41[/size]	[size=small]6N2P-EV[/size]
[size=small]2C51[/size]	[size=small]-[/size]	[size=small]6N3[/size]	[size=small]6N3P / 6SS42[/size]	[size=small]WE396A, 6854, 6385, CV2831, 5670, 5670WA, CK5670, CK5670WA, CV2575, CV4013, CV5894, CV8247, GL5670[/size]
[size=small]6BM8[/size]	[size=small]ECL82[/size]	[size=small]-[/size]	[size=small]6F3P[/size]	[size=small] [/size]
[size=small]6BQ5[/size]	[size=small]EL84[/size]	[size=small]6P14[/size]	[size=small]6P14P[/size]	[size=small]N709, E84L, 7320, 7189, 7189A[/size]
[size=small]6L6[/size]	[size=small]6L6[/size]	[size=small]6P3P[/size]	[size=small]6P3S[/size]	[size=small]KT66, EL37, WE350B, VT75[/size]
[size=small]6V6[/size]	[size=small]6V6[/size]	[size=small]6P6P[/size]	[size=small]6P6S[/size]	[size=small]KT63, 5992[/size]
[size=small]6550[/size]	[size=small]-[/size]	[size=small]6P27P[/size]	[size=small]6P27P[/size]	[size=small]KT88[/size]
[size=small]5U4G[/size]	[size=small]5U4G[/size]	[size=small]5Z3P[/size]	[size=small]5Z3S[/size]	[size=small]U52, WE274A/B, 53KU[/size]
[size=small]5Y3[/size]	[size=small]-[/size]	[size=small]5Z2P[/size]	[size=small]5Z2S[/size]	[size=small]U50[/size]
[size=small]5Z4[/size]	[size=small]GZ30[/size]	[size=small]5Z4P[/size]	[size=small]5Z4S[/size]	[size=small] -[/size]

Tubes in italic, like this text, are not "direct replacement" types. However they may work in some circuits, and some of them are known to work.
* Note: ECC40 is only electrically equivalent to 6N1P, its socket is different so a direct replacement is impossible.
Find some other references for your tubes here!
[size=medium]Some known problematic tubes to replace:[/size]

1. 6N6 (chinese), 6N6P (russian). This tube has NO known direct replacement: the best replacement is another 6N6 - 6N6P. However if you are experienced, and with the proper tools, it could be replaced (given socket rewiring and maybe some circuit tweaks) with 5687, 12BH7, ECC99 or E182CC. This last tube seems to be the closest equivalent.
2. 6N2 - 6N2P: the question here is, can I replace it with ECC83/12AX7? Yes you can, but you HAVE TO REWIRE THE SOCKET. Refer to the tube datasheets for this: as always I suggest to have this work done from experienced people, don't try poking inside dangerous tube amplifiers if you haven't done this before!
3. 6N1: not much info. Best replacement is still another 6N1. ECC88 and its various cousins might work, but be careful of the much higher filament current for the 6N1, and muchlower allowed plate voltage for the ECC88. If the amp runs the 6N1 at less than 130V you can safely replace 6N1 with ECC88 (don't know how it will sound...), but if the quiescent plate voltage is more, ECC88 might fail and ruin your amp. See also here for deeper information.
4. 6N30 - 6N30P - 6N30PI - 6N30PI-DR. Absolutely no western equivalence: the only known source for these is Sovtek that still makes them. However, russian NOS ones are even better but they're becoming scarce and expensive. 

 
 
I hope I'm not going against some forum rules or something - just had a little trouble finding this info in a concise way.  I hope it is useful to others like myself.
 
Feel free to leave recommendations for your particular tube types (music enjoyment/amp/cans/ -> tube recommendation)

 

[Francis JANSZ]

Can i Replace ECC88 Tubes with 6N1P on my 2 way ACTIVE CROSSOVER UNIT
I am not a Technical minded person, And I saw a add stating that The 6N1P is a replacement tube for The ECC88  Tube.
 
Your Help will be appreciated.
Kind Rgds
Francis Jansz

 

[Francis JANSZ]

Just Purchased a 2 Way Active TUBE CROSSOVER  PCB with The Parts List  from a diy Seller : Mr: Pete Millet.
WWW .pmillett.com
 
I was Told should I want a Lower Bass That I may have to change  Leave All Caps  0.001uF and Change The Resistors at RM1-RM4  And use 200k Resistors That are Mounted on The Resistor Modules RM1--RM4  to 200K resistors and I will be able to get 550Hz for my Bass Speakers.
 
Please confirm if this is O K.
Kind Rgds
Francis Jansz