rust inside receiver?
Apr 4, 2004 at 5:39 AM Thread Starter Post #1 of 6

mookid

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When I look through the vents on the top of my marantz 2215b I can see some rust on the silver metal surface inside. Could this be damaging to the unit? I think the rust is only on that silver part, not on the other components. Is there a way to remove the rust, and if so, is it recommended?

Advice on this would be greatly appreciated.
 
Apr 4, 2004 at 6:22 AM Post #2 of 6
A little bit of surface rust on unpainted steel parts is not uncommon if a piece has been stored in a basement or garage where there is high humidity present. It won't hurt anything but it is usually pretty easy to remove so why leave it.

Start by removing the cover and place all the screws and washers in a plastic container. These usually have some rust too so it is best to clean them up. I like to use a preservative/lubricant called Break Free CLP. It is sold for use on firearms and sporting goods. A little goes a long way, I use an old tooth brush to apply this product to clean up screws and washers, then wipe them off in a rag or a paper towel.

The case is stamped steel, with a wood grain vinyl covering. You can wash off the case in the sink, using dishwashing detergent and water on a sponge. You will be thoroughly drying it afterwards, with paper towels and then letting it air dry. After it is clean and dry you can apply a light coating of whatever metal protector you decide to use by applying a small amount to a clean rag and wiping down the bare metal side.

If there are rusty screws on the back or bottom of the chassis, use a toothbrush and some of the metal protectant to loosen this rust and coat the exposed metal. The bottom plate has more screws than the top, but it can be easily removed. You should wash and dry the bottom plate and also clean and coat the screws and washers.

The inside of the receiver chassis is probably more dusty than rusty. Use a can of compressed gas to blow out the dust, also a small 1/2" or 3/4" paint brush is good for removing dust from the interior components.

You should plan on cleaning and lubricating all of the switches and controls using a contact cleaner spray. Radio Shack sells a product that is both a contact cleaner and a lubricant. It works well and is safe for use with most plastics. A little is that is needed to clean and lubricate a control. Use the extension nozzle to get inside the switch or control with the cleaner spray, then work the control several dozen times. The controls should move freely.

If your tuning dial indicator does not move freely, you can use a tiny drop of household lubricant on each pulley of the tuning dial string. Also, a drop of lubricant on the tuning gyro itself, where the shaft bearings are located. Finally, you may want to put a small amount of white grease on the top of the tuning dial track where the tuning dial pointer moves along. This will help the pointer to move across this track.
 
Apr 4, 2004 at 3:20 PM Post #6 of 6
I would not attempt to treat the entire inside of the chassis with metal preservative. These product are not generally intended for use on plastics.

If you want to clean the inside, I suggest you start by blowing out the dust, any dirt that remains can be removed using a small cup of water and Windex or similar cleaner.

Use a small (1/2 - 3/4 inch wide) paint brush, the kind used for painting trim, to clean the interior (you must unplug the unit first of course). Don't worry about getting the inside of the chassis wet. Use the brush to dap cleaning solution on any exposed parts or surface that look dirty.
Keep moving the brush from the solution to the chassis and then back to the solution. Don't use this solution on the switches and controls though, use the contact cleaner spray for cleaning these parts.

After you finish applying the cleaning solution using the brush, you will see how much dirt has been removed from the surface of the components and carried back to the container of cleaning solution by the paint brush.

After you have finished cleaning the chassis, you can use the compressed air to blow any remaining solution from around the components, then you must let the unit air dry for at least 24 hours, or longer before attempting to plug it in.

If after cleaning out the dust and dirt there are any true rust areas, you can treat these with a small amount of metal preservative on an old tooth brush. This works well on screws where rust has formed on the head of the screw.

Don't forget to remove the bottom plate for cleaning. Alot of dust and dirt usually settles there. You can leave the feet attached when removing the bottom plate, the feet connect to the chassis directly and there are cutouts in the bottom plate that the feet pass through.

If you want to clean the faceplate, to remove the knobs use two metal teaspoons. Place a spoon with the round side towards the faceplate on each side of the knob. Slip the edge of the spoon under the knob. Press down on the opposite side of each spoon at the same time and this will lever the spoon off the control shaft without breaking the shaft (this of course would be bad).

Be careful when cleaning the faceplate. Don't use any abrasive cleaner or cleaning pad, it will damage the finish. The safest method is to use a mixture of water and Windex (50/50) and a paper towel. Apply this to the faceplate and let it soak in for a few minutes. Wipe it with a towel wet with more solution. Keep at it until it looks clean. Be careful not to rub any of the lettering. If after this treatment there is still a discolored area or an area with scratches, try a small amount of Soft Scrub cleaner on a wet paper towel on the stained/scratched area. Don't rub too hard or the finish may be damaged.
 

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