[Lil_JV]

Could somone direct me to a decent rotary on/off switch? What would it be called(like dpdt, spst,etc.)? I am looking for one that will fit a case with 26mm(1.024") internal clearance.

Thanks in advance.

JV.

 

[Garbz]

I've searched for a few before but so far I haven't found one with a very high power handling, definatly not suitable for 240v / 110v applications anyway. From what i've seen there are generally rotary switches with 12 total connections. Either SP12D or 2p6d or 3p4d or 4p3d is what i've seen so far.
Try mouser http://www.mouser.com/?handler=data....y&Ne=300&N=309

 

[rickcr42]

go to the links section and under "surplus dealers" you will find what you need for a reasonable price

Rick

 

[erix]

What are you using it for?

The Lorlin's that Mouser and Digikey sell are available in shorting and no-shorting styles, multiple poles/positions and are rated at 125V+.

<$3.00 too....

ok,
erix

 

[Lil_JV]

Quote:

Originally Posted by erix What are you using it for? The Lorlin's that Mouser and Digikey sell are available in shorting and no-shorting styles, multiple poles/positions and are rated at 125V+. <$3.00 too.... ok, erix

I am going to be using it for the layout you did for me. I just like the look of a knob on each side of the case. So, which switch would you use?

Thanks for the help guys!

JV.

 

[erix]

I'd use this one for both power and bass boost:

Lorlin 4Pole, 2-3 Position Rotary Switch

The cool thing about the Lorlins is you can select how many throws you want by means of a washer with a litle leg that fits into a hole on the switch.

They're the same ones Ray Samuels uses - they're well up to the task.

twist-n-shout,
erix

 

[Lil_JV]

Thanks erix! If they're good enough for Ray's amps then I think there good enough for mine.

I have drawn up a case layout and here's what I have come up with.

The knob on the left will be power, the next round circle is one of the tabless neutriks, the next two are pushbuttons for bass boost and gain, and the last knob is of course volume. Now that you mention having a rotary switch for bassboost the big neutrik could be replaced with another knob and have the two little circles as regular 1/4" jacks. Then I could just change the gain switch to a toggle on the back.

Whatcha think?

JV.

 

[skyskraper]

can any of you guys confirm that this switch is in fact a lorlin, i dont want to be paying top dollar for an taiwan unbranded switch. fwiw i got the image from rs and they dont list the manuf, and they dont have a manuf's datasheet on their site...

 

[Daroid]

Yes that is the Lorlin rotary switch with solder lugs and flat element.
I have had very good experience with 2X6 and 4X3 rotary Lorlin rotaries and they are simply great for the price. They can be a little hard to turn compared to other switches, but it is very sturdy. Be careful what you order, there are many variants - shorting, non-shorting, PCB pins, solder lugs, flat rotary element, round element. Farnell also carries them.

EDIT: If Ray uses Lorlins, they have the wrong color. Weird

EDIT 2: Dr. Meier uses Lorlins: http://home.t-online.de/home/meier-a...sivefilter.htm

 

[antonik]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Daroid EDIT: If Ray uses Lorlins, they have the wrong color. Weird

It looks like Ray uses ITT Cannon - they similar to Lorlins, but better quality (and different colour)

On the subject of the thread - I don't think there is a rotary switch available ATM suitable for mains switching (except really huge industrial types) - neither Lorlin nor ITT would be able to survive it for long. (There was a rotary mains switch available few years back, but I can not find a supplier for it now).

EDIT: I found this switch in RS ( http://rswww.com ) - Order code 316-800

Alex

 

[sft]

Quote:

Originally Posted by skyskraper can any of you guys confirm that this switch is in fact a lorlin, i dont want to be paying top dollar for an taiwan unbranded switch. fwiw i got the image from rs and they dont list the manuf, and they dont have a manuf's datasheet on their site...

1)I'm not very sure it's a lorlin. It's made in uk with the same spec. as a lorin.
2)for on-off switch, you should choose a real rotary on-off swich(designed for power), not normal rotary switch(for signal selection).
Like this:10ms, 64A.

3)I'm very glad to let everybody know what's the real quaility made in Taiwan.

 

[skyskraper]

i got nothing against made in taiwan, but the alpha switches that look similar cost 1/3rd the price so wouldnt want to be taken for a ride. i plan on using this switch for input selecting, not power on/off

 

[sft]

For input selecting, it's fine IMHO.

someting with poor quality made in taiwan(or anywhere)
and someting with high quality, as a matter of course.