[kenman345]

Sorry for the double post, just wanted to make sure it didnt get buried and got a quick reply. I opened up the connector, this is what it looks like:
 

 
The right channel is the orange one. I should reheat the solder and do what to make it a better connection? the little hair like stuff around the plug are a weird white strand in the middle of the copper of the cords that was tricky to keep inside the surroundings of the copper.

 

[Magedark]

Essentially just reheat it up, and make sure it makes a solid connection. Usually for me when a connection shorts out with movement, it's because the soldering job is not very well done.

 

[kenman345]

Did as you said.....
 

Having removed the heat shrink. I have yet to reapply it. but so far, with the cord able to have maximum movement, i am not experiencing any loss of audio besides the cord slightly coming out of the jack, which i dont entirely know why it does that, but assume it has something to do with the cord literally able to dangle and cause excess stress. 
 
EDIT: redid one layer of heat shrink and tested it out, worked fine so i put a covering of heat shrink over the entire part of the cord to make it nice and clean looking again. so far, whenever i plug it in it sounds great and as wanted. still need to figure out the disconnecting from the jack problem.
Quote:

Essentially just reheat it up, and make sure it makes a solid connection. Usually for me when a connection shorts out with movement, it's because the soldering job is not very well done.

 

 

[tonal]

The problem probably is due to poor jack quality or added stress when the cable flexes.
Low flexibility + added length -> stress on the connector when a bending force is applied.
The heatshrink reduces flexibility so try to use the shortest length possible if any at all.
If you replace the connector try neutrik. 
The solder joints look OK.
 
BTW what are these "whiskers" shown on the photos? I hope it's not copper wire.
 
 
 

 

[kenman345]

As stated before, these are not copper wires that make the whiskers appear in the picture. That is before i did a reflow. Basically, their is some weird white ish stuff that is in the form of wire that is in the center of the copper wires for each wire. I dont know what it is, but I reflowed the right connection, made sure those whiskers made a connection and cut off the excess to make sure it didnt cause problems. 
 
I think I am going to order the new connector online and when I receive it I will redo the connections. I think doing what I have so far has helped me get used to knowing what I need to do. I had put masking tape over the end of the wire that was unraveling, which I then covered with heat shrink, so i think I am going to remove that, apply heat shrink onto the original cable where their is still some sticky parts from the tape and use part of that to part of the wire that is covered in masking tape to expose the wire I will need to attach the new connector. 
 
If you wouldnt mind, could you post a link from amazon of which connector I should get, I would prefer to have a few spare for future uses and in case I mess up with one and it has a too much solder in one place or another to be able to use.
 
EDIT: The use of masking tape was to because I didnt have heat shrink and regular tape was falling off. The masking tape actually hinders me from pulling the cover of the connector back much more than enough to fix the issues I was having. If I was to put on a new connector I have to either make that masking tape section thinner, which I figured I could do with heat shrink, or remove it and still have to put heat shrink over the new area so the cord doesnt unravel as I do the repair. 

 

[tonal]

Here you are:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Neutrik-NPT3RC-Right-angled-Professional/dp/B000LB15XE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1323028806&sr=8-1
 
That white thing (the whiskers) is just reinforcing the cable.

 

[kenman345]

Quote:

Here you are:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Neutrik-NPT3RC-Right-angled-Professional/dp/B000LB15XE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1323028806&sr=8-1
 
That white thing (the whiskers) is just reinforcing the cable.

I am in the US, but is a right angled cable the way to go?
 
Also, no Neutrik plugs seem to be Amazon Prime eligible. Any other suggestions?
 
EDIT: I am currently using the plug seen here: http://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Stereo-Audio-Cable-Metal/dp/B002MNWFY2/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1323029710&sr=1-1 but the coiled metal section does not fit around my cable, so it is a concern when looking for a new plug that it will properly fit on my cable. Hopefully the heat shrink may help it stay together so if it's close it will be able to get on, which started to become an issue when putting on the screw on cover I have now.

 

[wuwhere]

Here's one, a Neutrik.
 
http://www.amazon.com/Neutrik-NYS231BG-3-5mm-Stereo-Black/dp/B0008JFHII/ref=sr_1_42?ie=UTF8&qid=1323030462&sr=8-42
 
Another brand is Switchcraft, they're more expensive than Neutrik.
 
http://www.fullcompass.com/product/417264.html?utm_source=googleps&utm_medium=shopping&utm_campaign=googleps&gclid=COTr1ayh6awCFRAq7AodlS0hJg

 

[tonal]

Choose straight or right angled according to what serves your purpose best and puts less stress on the jack.
For what it's worth, the NYS* parts are actually REAN, which has been acquired by Neutrik, and are lower budget parts (have not used them, but I assume that any branded plug will be fine).
http://www.amazon.com/Neutrik-NTP3RC-B-3-5mm-Right-Angle/dp/B000BDDOP4/ref=pd_cp_e_4
I know, it doesn't seem right to pay for shipping as much as the part itself but you can't do much about it...
 

 

[wuwhere]

For angled 3.5mm mini TRS, I like this one from Switchcraft. A little expensive but with bigger terminals to solder and with heavy duty cable clamp.
 
http://www.whiplashaudio.com/35hdrabau-3-5mm-right-angled-gold-plug.html

 

[kenman345]

It's not about paying for shipping, it's more about it not getting to me quick. With amazon prime I get free 2 day shipping or I can upgrade to 1 day shipping for 4 bucks an item. It's just a convenience thing. I took off the duct tape I had on the cord and managed to wiggle down the audio plug cover so i can cover the exposed 4 wires with heat shrink, making the fit of the plug cover a bit tighter and causing less stress on the cords. I think for now I am going to leave it like this until I get the Neutrik plug, if I decide to get it. I'm thinking that now that I have it working fine, i'm gonna stop messing with it and just enjoy my purchase on vacation and go for the recabling as soon as i get back

 

[SHAHZADA123]

Hi,
Is it possible to reterminate the stock headphone cables from 1/4 to a mini4pin XLRs ?
 
I have recently bought the Norse Audio Adapter system for LCD-2s & HE-6 and would like to use my other headphones with the various balanced Norse Audio adapters as well.
Thanks in advance

 

[kenman345]

The stock cord has four separate cords, two grounds, 1 for left, 1 for right. You should be able to put on the XLR pins

 

[SHAHZADA123]

Quote:

The stock cord has four separate cords, two grounds, 1 for left, 1 for right. You should be able to put on the XLR pins

 
Great! Thanks!
 

 

[kenman345]

I know that its quite standard for the wires on headphones to have 4 wires (2 ground and so forth), but specifically for d2000's, the wires coming from the cans just has another layer/sleeve in the covering when it goes to 1 wire. This makes it easy for you to find the ground and audio wire for each can as they will have to be stripped from the smaller cables inside the sleeve
 
Quote:

 
Great! Thanks!