[Stephonovich]

I'm currently in the midst of repairing an aluminum cone 10" speaker from my Hartke Kickback 10 bass amp. Dimed it one too many times, it seems. Got a replacement Eminence speaker, but it's not matched to the porting, so it just doesn't have the impact, plus you get bass farts at anything past half volume. I was about to just say screw it and spend the $90 from ddspeaker.com (only place I've found that sells OEM Hartke - you don't want to deal with Hartke themselves, believe me), then I did some Googling.

I figured super glue would be too inflexible, but wanted to make sure. Found a couple forums on speaker repair, and even an entire website devoted to glues (Glue-Fi?), and they all recommended silicon caulk. They said shoe goo is better as it cures faster, but I didn't have any. I did, however, have GE Door/Window Sealant, which was the very variety recommended.

Anyway, smeared it on there (just two tiny hairline cracks), and set it carefully in it's box. The caulk said 24 hours to cure, so we'll see tomorrow how it worked.

I was just wondering if anyone had any experience repairing speakers, aluminum or paper, or advice should this fail. And no, re-coning is not an option. Hartke is very protective of their aluminum cones, and no one sells re-cone kits.

 

[Oink1]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stephonovich I'm currently in the midst of repairing an aluminum cone 10" speaker from my Hartke Kickback 10 bass amp. Dimed it one too many times, it seems. Got a replacement Eminence speaker, but it's not matched to the porting, so it just doesn't have the impact, plus you get bass farts at anything past half volume. I was about to just say screw it and spend the $90 from ddspeaker.com (only place I've found that sells OEM Hartke - you don't want to deal with Hartke themselves, believe me), then I did some Googling. I figured super glue would be too inflexible, but wanted to make sure. Found a couple forums on speaker repair, and even an entire website devoted to glues (Glue-Fi?), and they all recommended silicon caulk. They said shoe goo is better as it cures faster, but I didn't have any. I did, however, have GE Door/Window Sealant, which was the very variety recommended. Anyway, smeared it on there (just two tiny hairline cracks), and set it carefully in it's box. The caulk said 24 hours to cure, so we'll see tomorrow how it worked. I was just wondering if anyone had any experience repairing speakers, aluminum or paper, or advice should this fail. And no, re-coning is not an option. Hartke is very protective of their aluminum cones, and no one sells re-cone kits.

If the repair doesn't work out have a look HERE with reference to enclosure/port tuning for the new Eminence sub you got - Hope this helps

 

[Stephonovich]

Excellent site. Managed to figure out the math for my new speaker, although I'll need to contact Hartke to figure out the interior volume of the cab. I'm hoping, of course, I won't need any of this, and the repair job will work.

I suppose I could also build/buy a cab and take the amp out of the Hartke cab...

 

[rickcr42]

are you saying you actually tore the cone ?

If yes then the fix should be done from the backside of the speaker.

Remove the speaker and then try a two part epoxy glue smeared over a strip of black electrical tape put over the tear.

be careful not to add too much mass to the cone or you will change its characteristics and it will no longer be useable in that particular cabinet but if you use care and just enough material to seal the rip you may get by.

If it is just a dent then put a vacuum cleaner or suction device over the dent and "suck" it out !

 

[AndrewB]

Remove the speaker and then try a two part epoxy glue smeared over a strip of black electrical tape put over the tear.

[\QUOTE]


Actually, you'd be better off using clear nail polish to seal the tear. Works well and holds up for a good long time.

 

[rickcr42]

Quote:

Actually, you'd be better off using clear nail polish to seal the tear. Works well and holds up for a good long time.

on a paper pulp cone yeah but I am not too sure about aluminum.Not sure it WON"T work either...........

 

[Stephonovich]

Yep; tore the cone, right where it connects to the spider. As I said, two hairline cracks. The silicon, BTW, sort of worked. It appears to have bonded the crack, but the speaker still buzzes heavily. I read something about the spider getting off-center sometimes during repairs, however, I've no idea how to go about repairing it.

I'm considering taking it to a repair shop. Estimates I've seen on the internet range from $50-$80. If it gets near that top figure, I'd be better off buying a new one ($90) and getting what I can for this one on eBay. Could fetch $10, anyway.

 

[rickcr42]

i guess since i really do not have an answer for your problem i will just throw some links out at you :

http://www.woofer.com/woofer/

http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/F_Speaker.html