[TrollDragon]

The same gauge throughout would be perfect since uniformity is a really good thing, especially if anyone else views your handiwork.
 

 

[PETEREK]

Both detachable with Lumberg 3.5 jacks

 

[liquidzoo]

Success!
 
I ended up using Mogami W2893 for all of the internal wiring.  Both because the 4 cores are different colors (which was a huge bonus) and because it was far more flexible than the (also) 26AWG Canare L-4E5C.
 
Maybe, just maybe I'll be able to attach the (huge) pics here (click for larger versions):
 
Starting with the left driver, I removed the earpad.
 

 
I then removed the ring and foam covering the driver.
 

 
Took the driver out of the cup, cutting the wires in the process (this was one of the hardest parts, mentally anyway), I then desoldered the wires you see here, which lead to another part of this post.
 

 
Enlarged the hole in the cup for the mini-xlr (I had to do this again to move it down a fraction of an inch later on)
 

 
(not pictured): Inserted the mini-xlr, which I had previously wired and "welded" it in place using Gorilla epoxy
 
I then wired up the driver (configuration I have is different from stock due to the ground tab breaking off on my first attempt, thank you TrollDragon for helping me through that to make sure the driver could still work)
 

 
Put the driver back in its housing (almost forgot the dampening ring too!)
I also twisted up the 2 paracord-sleeved wires that go to the right driver.  Not pictured, I put a tiny bit of adhesive-backed heatshrink over the wires in about the center to help keep the wires twisted.
 

 
I put the left cup back on the headband (2 small screws is all that holds it on) and continued to the right driver.  I took it apart as above and removed the stock wiring.  I then (slightly) widened the hole the wires come into so that both sleeved wires would fit (did this on the left side too).  Soldered the wires in place, put the cup back together and reattached it to the headband.
 

 
All done!
 

 
A shot with the cable I made for them.  Will be making a few more, I'm sure.
 

 

[PETEREK]

They look great! Be careful, DIY is addicting.

 

[liquidzoo]

Oh, I know it.

Next up (after at least making a 6.3mm cable for my 770s) will be my SR225is. Already have all of the wood plugs to do a removable cable mod for them as well if I want to.

 

[TrollDragon]

Quote:

Success!
 
I then wired up the driver (configuration I have is different from stock due to the ground tab breaking off on my first attempt, thank you TrollDragon for helping me through that to make sure the driver could still work)  

 
All done!
 

 
A shot with the cable I made for them.  Will be making a few more, I'm sure.
 

You are most welcome liquidzoo!
 
A bonus driver recovery for sure. I like the black and white on the headband wire, it fits the colour scheme of the 770's perfectly.
 
If you spinning up another cable for these and using the above one with your Grado's, it would be good to see a braid in the same colour as the headband wire. A Black-White-White-Black layout when you start will you get a nice non twisted checkered pattern, but you probably know this already. It would look really good with an ebony shell on the TRS jack as well.

 
Here is the next TINY xlr I am going to try, REAN RT4MPR  it's only half the length of the regular RT4MP, a shoulder on the back of it with the hex nut outside means possibly no epoxy required, I'll have to find a pair and check them out.
 
Excellent Job, they look great!

 

[liquidzoo]

Thanks! Wouldn't have thought to try to fix the driver without your help.

The pictures don't do it enough justice, but that crossover wire is black and a light silver. Even closer to the stock color scheme and definitely on my list for my next cable.

I may need to get a new wood plug to match more closely Lol. The ones I have are more warm tones.

I like the look of that xlr. You'll have to let us know how it turns out. I'm not going to be using this cable on my Grados, though. Xlr plugs are too big for them. If I go removable there I'm going 3.5mm mono to each ear.

 

[TrollDragon]

Now that I look closer, I can see it's light silver.
 
I will do when I get those xlr's that is if they are not only available in 100 qty like the black ones I wanted to use at first.
 
I was wondering if the same RF connectors that they use on the HiFiMan's would work for the Grado's, I think they are a reverse SMC or SMA type, I'll have to look them up.
It hasn't been done with those to my knowledge and would look great.
 
Now I need a set of 225i's to work with. 

Damn this hobby...

 

[Chuck Canada]

I might give this a try, I need to get a new cable in my DT 990 cans

 

[liquidzoo]

I might give this a try, I need to get a new cable in my DT 990 cans

If I had to do it over again:

I'd do a 4 pin mini-xlr, so I could go balanced in the future if I choose to do so

I'd also use the more flexible and smaller diameter Mogami from the start, so I didn't damage the driver and have a mild panic attack (until TrollDragon helped me figure out how to fix it).

I actually emailed Beyer to see what the price is on some replacement cups (the cups from the 770-Premium just because they're more unique). If they come back and tell me the price is reasonable I may get them and then be able to make these changes.

I would also probably buy this connector: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/REAN-Neutrik/RT4MPR/?qs=YTQiE72mYlIlUzopQQ1jTQ%3D%3D

Or the RT3MPR if I were going 3-pole. The mounting depth is half that of the one I bought (which was the RT3MP)