[Lumos]

Please help me to recable my HD558 and make it dual entry. I have seen some guys recabeled HD598 as dual entry and I would like to try on these...
 
If you can educate me please help
first of all I want to make sure that drivers are still working until I will buy some cable. I have now two cable borrowed from my cheap IEM-s for testing .
 
which cable I should buy?
 
Is it possible to damage driver by exchanging or soldering wrong cable to wrong place on driver?
Huge thanks in advance

 

[streetdragon]

um from what i know is that the copper cables have a special coating for the individual copper fibres. Only the exposed middle is conductive, the sides are not. So thats why you can's simply twist them, you must solder them together because the lead of the solder will act as a conductor to pass the electric current though the wire.
Hope some guys with more experience with wires and stuff can help you out, my knowledge is rather limited.

 

[Lumos]

Thanks streetdragon
 
Can anyone please tell me which cable I can purchase and where for recabeling? I cant find any on amazon Just copper not anything special
 
Thanks again

 

[Lumos]

bump
 
I found 3.5 mm plugs on amazon http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006SV1YGO/ref=gno_cart_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1THAZDOWP300U
but where can I buy ordinary cable?

 

[wje]

The picture you linked to featured Mogami cable.  It was probably the #2534 Neglex cable.  As a cable itself, it is one of the thicker variants.  Consider weight when doing your recable work.  Also, though, the Mogami that was apparently used, may have had the rubber jacket and copper braiding removed, which would allow the 2 blue, and 2 semi-clear insulated wires to be braided, then placed within the nylon sleeve.  This would significantly reduce the weight -- but could open up the cable to a bit of EMI / RFi interference.  Also, Canare makes a some great quad cable of thinner varieties.  Personally, don't go for too of an exotic cable.  You'd be surprised at how much better just some  Canare or Mogami wire might be over the standard Sennheiser "strings" that they use for cable materials.
 
The 3.5mm jacks look OK to use.  Also, on eBay, you can find 3.5mm jacks from Rean, which is a company of Neutrik.  The 3.5mm jacks from Neutrik with the 45-degree bend can be a bit crazy to assemble, but I don't think you're going that route.
 
Finally, I've been able to use some metal or nylon sleeves from the local hardware stores that I've used to make my "Y" connectors - and keep them quite neat and professional looking.
 
Here is a picture of one if my cables.
 
 

 

[Lumos]

Heya wje
 
Thanks for reply
minute ago I bought Canare L-4E5C huh

  waiting to arrive...
http://www.markertek.com/Cables/Bulk-Wire-Cable/Bulk-Audio-Cable/Canare-Corporation-Of-America/L-4E5C-BK.xhtml
 
Report back after mod

 

[wje]

Quote:

Heya wje
 
Thanks for reply
minute ago I bought Canare L-4E5C huh

  waiting to arrive...
http://www.markertek.com/Cables/Bulk-Wire-Cable/Bulk-Audio-Cable/Canare-Corporation-Of-America/L-4E5C-BK.xhtml
 
Report back after mod

 
I'd have to run downstairs and see which model of Canare I had purchased via a 50-foot length a few weeks ago.  Your choice looks like a good one made, but hopefully not too much in shipping.  I love Markertek, but the value seems to be present when you buy a lot of items (cable + plugs and other items) to off-set the shipping cost a bit.  Some Ebay vendors sell pre-cut lengths and you don't have to pay too much for shipping.  But, I still think you made a good decision.  You'll realize that with a little of your own effort and about $20 in supplies, you'll have quite a fine cable.  If you have any specific questions, just shoot me a PM or post a question here in your thread, and I'll try to answer it.

 

[Lumos]

deleted

 

[wje]

Quote:

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I was going to respond to your question regarding soldering irons.  I haven't used that brand of those which you've listed, so I can't comment on their capabilities.  Here in the U.S., I did stumble upon a somewhat upgraded soldering iron for my use from Radio Shack - of all places.  They have some updated irons from their Pro Line, which are actually pretty good to work with in my case.  They feature quick warm-up times and more consistent with their heating temps as opposed to their lesser-quality line.
 
I'm not sure what the availability of their items are in a world-wide basis via support for different voltages.  In my case, I bought the 25-watt version and it really puts the previous irons - even the 40W versions from Weller to shame.  But, to be fair, those were purchased from local home improvement places and I was stuck with them as a source at the time.  Plus, they are not necessarily from the mid to higher end line by Weller, which appears to be pretty good.
 
In my case, I kind of second guessed my position on the 25W version after the purchase.  Being that I work with more silver bearing solder at this point in time, most of it has a lower melting point temperature and I didn't want to be using a soldering iron that had too much overkill.  I had purchased a "dim-able" extension cord in the past for another project at home.  Realizing that this cord, with the slider switch, would allow me to control the level of current going to my soldering iron, I ended up implementing it into my setup.  I can now dial-down the temp a bit as needed so that I don't overcook the solder when working on a project.  The previous 25W was actually a bit too much from this pro line iron when compared to the previous irons I had of the same watt rating.  So, having more precise control over the temp was key here.  Plus, with my new capabilities, it prevented me from having to buy a lower wattage iron and I find I still have much more of a precise control of the heat over even what just a lower wattage iron may have provided for me.
 
 

 

[Lumos]

Still waiting cables to arrive, I will update tread as soon as I will re-cable it