[Oddball]

I just bought the RS 13.8 volt 3-amp PSU for my T-amp and I've noticed that it's not a regulated power supply, but a switching power supply. I've read on various threads that regulated is better, but what are the pragmatic differences between a switching and regulated supply? Is it worth it for me to return the PSU and buy a regulated one online? Thanks for your input. I bought the Radio Shack unit because I live just down the street from the store and I didn't want to wait for an online store to deliver, and I'm wondering if I did the right thing.

 

[JWFokker]

Regulated power supplies have less variation in the power they output than a regular wallwart adapter. Less variation in voltage is always better for electronics, be they amplifiers or computers. Parts generally run cooler and more efficiently (they kinda go hand in hand) on tightly regulated voltage and usually last longer too.


EDIT: Typo

 

[Oddball]

Thanks for the translation of the technical stuff!

 

[Oddball]

I just checked up on my t-amp and Athena setup, and I do believe that the t-amp just died on me. There's no sound coming out of the speakers when I turn on the pcdp and t-amp. I just checked the speaker connections and checked another set of speaker wire and have also checked the source. I had been running the t-amp off the radio shack 13.8 v switching power supply. I tried using the t-amp with batteries, but to no avail. The red light lights up, but no sound comes out. I think the switching supply might have fried the t-amp. Is this possible or am I missing something totally obvious? If I did, then let this serve as a warning to others who might use the radio shack PS. Insight welcome. I'm hoping I'm just missing something obvious...

 

[bg4533]

Do you have a multimeter? If so measure the PSU voltage. The PSU might be putting out more than 13.8V. 13.8V is about the most the Tamp should get.

 

[princeclassic]

what would be the consequence of using a 12v 300ma power supply with the t-amp?

 

[bg4533]

You probably wouldn't have enough power to drive any speakers.

 

[Oddball]

No, I don't have a multimeter, but I've been suspicious of the PS for a while. Sometimes when I don't turn the t-amp off, but the PS is turned off, there's some sort of power spike and the t-amp powers up momentarily, then powers down. The Radio Shack PS is switching and not regulated as recommended, so I guess it is very important to have the right kind of PS. Or remember to turn both the t-amp and PS off. I still have the receipt, so I'm going to return the PS and get a regulated one somewhere. The fact that the Radio Shack power supply is switching was a surprise to me as it wasn't labeled as such on the website.

 

[bg4533]

Assume PSUs are switching unless labeled otherwise.

I doubt the switching part killed the headphones. Most likely it was overvoltage due to the lack of any regulation.

 

[aerius]

I could be wrong, but I don't think a slight over-voltage from the adaptor would've killed the t-amp. I'm thinking it's more likely the polarity of the adaptor was wrong, that would have a much better chance of frying the amp.

Check the center pin of the DC jack on the t-amp and see if there's a label that says whether it should be positive or negative, and make sure you buy a matching adaptor.

 

[comabereni]

I've fried several T-amps now playing around with them. Some died from polarity reversal (the quickest and surest way), some from overvoltage (most of them don't like to operate above 14VDC and will eventually stop turning on), one died plugging in the miniplug while still moist with connection anti-oxidant. Only this last method resulted in a power indicator light still lit but no sound. The first two methods killed the amps cold--no more power indicator, no more sound.

Center on PSU plug is positive. Limit your PSU to around 13VDC or less. Keep it dry. The T-amp is a sensitive little circuit.

-coma

Quote:

Originally Posted by Oddball I just checked up on my t-amp and Athena setup, and I do believe that the t-amp just died on me. There's no sound coming out of the speakers when I turn on the pcdp and t-amp. I just checked the speaker connections and checked another set of speaker wire and have also checked the source. I had been running the t-amp off the radio shack 13.8 v switching power supply. I tried using the t-amp with batteries, but to no avail. The red light lights up, but no sound comes out. I think the switching supply might have fried the t-amp. Is this possible or am I missing something totally obvious? If I did, then let this serve as a warning to others who might use the radio shack PS. Insight welcome. I'm hoping I'm just missing something obvious...

 

[Ferbose]

Quote:

Originally Posted by comabereni I've fried several T-amps now playing around with them. Some died from polarity reversal (the quickest and surest way), some from overvoltage (most of them don't like to operate above 14VDC and will eventually stop turning on), one died plugging in the miniplug while still moist with connection anti-oxidant. Only this last method resulted in a power indicator light still lit but no sound. The first two methods killed the amps cold--no more power indicator, no more sound. Center on PSU plug is positive. Limit your PSU to around 13VDC or less. Keep it dry. The T-amp is a sensitive little circuit. -coma

Your effort in frying up T-amp is nothing short of heroic

 

[Oddball]

1. Polarity [check]
2. Dry [check]
3. Limiting to 13 V...eh...

The t-amp went fine for about three weeks, then decided to die. The only thing I can think of killing it is repeatly going above 13.8 V. The red light still lights up when I turn on the t-amp powered into the power supply or when I turn it on when it's battery powered though. But since I heard some rattling when I picked it up, I assume that something went wrong in there.

Thanks for everyone's help.

 

[mail4u]

The RS power supply works fine with my T-amp.

 

[Sovkiller]

So in other words the center tip is positive....I was asking to a few members and all of them seems to agree on that....