[fyleow]

The only thing I hate about DIY is drilling the enclosure. I remember making the Gilmore amp and I had a very hard time with the Hammond case. I'll be (hopefully) making a balanced one soon and I'll have to deal with the Hammond again. To reduce the amount of headache I'm going to look for help here first

1) Is there some secret technique to drill these aluminum cases? What about the square or other weird looking connectors for power? I have access to a dremel and regular drill. I know some people use this device that punches holes. You drill a small hole and the device clamps down and you screw until it makes a clean cut. I think these are expensive though and since I'm not doing DIY regularly it's not going to be worth it.

2) I could try the frontpanelexpress route. Would it be better to ask them to use their own metal or try to send in the original panels that came with the case? If anyone has experience with them PM me please. (especially if you use thier services with the Hammond case).

3) What kind of AC power jack is recommended? I always pick one randomly and they don't look very good. Any specific part number for Mouser, Digikey, Newark etc of one that looks good is appreciated. I've seen some amps with power jack that had a built in power switch. Any ideas?

4) Since the amp is split into two different cases (power and amplifier) I need a way to transfer power. I used a DIN before and it worked out okay but I was wondering what other people have been using. As usual, part numbers would be great

(Yeah, I'm lazy).

I just want this thing to look good. It can be an awesome amp but if the exterior is not well made it ruins everything. Thanks for the help.

 

[aos]

For a one-off it's not a bad idea to go with Front Panel. It may be a bit expensive but you are building one for yourself, you can do nice lettering and you won't worry about screwing up (though FP can screw up, and you should make sure to check several times before ordering, e.g. print it on a piece of paper and try it as a mock board to see if it's really ok). It's not necessary to send your own panels, as long as you put proper dimensions they will come out just fine.

 

[fyleow]

Well my concern is that the edges on the Hammond are rounded but I assume front panel express is a rectangle. I guess it wouldn't be a big problem though.

 

[dsavitsk]

Quote:

Originally Posted by fyleow Well my concern is that the edges on the Hammond are rounded but I assume front panel express is a rectangle. I guess it wouldn't be a big problem though.

Their software, I believe, will allow you to specify rounded corners.

-d

 

[JMT]

Quote:

Originally Posted by fyleow 1) Is there some secret technique to drill these aluminum cases? What about the square or other weird looking connectors for power? I have access to a dremel and regular drill. I know some people use this device that punches holes. You drill a small hole and the device clamps down and you screw until it makes a clean cut. I think these are expensive though and since I'm not doing DIY regularly it's not going to be worth it.

For openings that 0.5" or less, I use a Unibit. These cut through the Hammond panels without breaking a sweat.

Anything larger than that I use a Greenlee panel punch.
Quote:

Originally Posted by fyleow 3) What kind of AC power jack is recommended? I always pick one randomly and they don't look very good. Any specific part number for Mouser, Digikey, Newark etc of one that looks good is appreciated. I've seen some amps with power jack that had a built in power switch. Any ideas?

Are you talking about an IEC inlet with a built in switch and fuseholder? If so, try the Schurter W/2-P SWITCH 115/230 at Mouser. I can't seem to find the one that I use with the fuseholder. I'll look around at my old invoices.

 

[Tobrew]

I have to second JMT's post. The Unibit is THE way to go. It works great in wood also. They are a little pricey $17-36 US dollars depending on what range you get, but well worth the money.

 

[thrice]

I'll add another vote for the unibit too. Great little drill bit that will do wonders, and it will work really well through mint tins too, if you ever make a portable. Just a great bit in general. And hey, anytime you get to go out and buy a new tool, that's a good thing

 

[fyleow]

Thanks for all the help guys.

JMT the shurter switch seems to be close to what I'm looking for but from the pics it has both an inlet and outlet. I just need one with an inlet but you've pointed me in the right direction. Are those switches with LED or just a regular plastic switch?

The Unibit looks good but for larger holes (like Neutrik jacks) I'll need to invest in panel punchers and that's going to cost more. With smaller things like Cmoys I use plastic or thin metal and regular drill bits are fine.