[dizzyorange]

I saw a post on the FS forums recently about a member's intention to purchase a Panerai 212 Flyback chrono, which seems to be going for $9000 these days.

As an outsider, I'd like to know what makes a watch like this so expensive, and why hobbyists desire it. I'm not asking to ridicule or anything like that, but out of plain curiosity. There do not appear to be any diamonds or precious metals embedded.

Is this simply a technically superior watch that is more accurate than most other watches?
How accurate is it? Is it off by (a complete guess) 1 second a year?

What makes a watch like this one desirable to own? It is fidelity like with headphones? Aesthetics? Or the brand name?

Would be very interested in hearing any responses!

 

[tjkurita]

haha. Yes. That might have been my post.

Um... Well. It's hard to explain to folks who don't like watches. Would it help to know that I am looking for one in the $7K range? And that if I decide to sell it I could probably sell it for the same price I bought it for on the used market? If I can find one for the right price, that is. I actually come out +$ on my total watch purchases/sales. Not because I flip, but because I might get a limited watch before the hype and then sell when the watch increases in value. Watch value fluctuations can be pretty big and the prices generally do not drop. So if you buy used exclusively (like me) you can at least enjoy the hobby and break even. If I ever need the $ I can sell all of the watches I own for the same or more than I paid for them. And I've only got 3 nice watches right now.

As far as the mechanical precision, of course it is not accurate to 1 sec./year. But that's not the point. Right now, I can't even remember why I like the watches. It's odd. You are making me feel bad about it. But that's ok. I don't even like the watches as a status symbol. I like watches that are relatively less known.

I just like the fact that it is a mechanical device that keeps time by slowly releasing tension on a spring. The balance the keyless works the escapement. These are just amazing things to me and I love having one on my wrist.

To address your question about value: I can't answer you. The movement in the PAM 212 is a modified Valjoux chrono, which is cheap and has some small history of poor performance. Panerai modifies it pretty heavily, but it is not "in house" or exclusive. The same movement can be found in many other less expensive watches. The finish will not be as clean, and Panerai does make other modifications to the movement that improve its quality. But the watch is indeed ridiculously over-priced.

All I know is that I don't want the IWC anymore and maybe I will get a 212. If I can't find one for the right price I will not get one. I will probably sell my Daytona as well, actually...

 

[dizzyorange]

Quote:

I just like the fact that it is a mechanical device that keeps time by slowly releasing tension on a spring.

So this watch doesn't rely on quartz vibrations to keep time? But rather a good old fashioned wind-up coil? That is really cool!
Quote:

The balance the keyless works the escapement.

That is one Orphic sentence^... what does it mean?

 

[vagarach]

Let me say, I have a (relatively) 'cheap' stainless steel quartz Seiko chronograph rated to 50M, that cost ~$300, which I think is a little expensive for what some other companies make at half the price. Still, it looks really good, and I like it a lot, so I don't worry too much about it.

The point being that high-end watches aren't exactly objective purchases, just like designer fashion, etc. When you start buying $20k+ watches you're paying for the fact that your watch is hand built in Switzerland by a master watchmaker using a completely in-house movement, along with the history and reputation of the brand, the artistry in design, and so on.

As for Panerai, wikipedia gives a good hint:
Quote:

Officine Panerai is a luxury Italian watch brand. It was founded in 1860 in Florence by Giovanni Panerai (1825–1897). It later became the official supplier to the Royal Italian Navy and expanded to building precision instruments. The company is famous for its Radiomir and Luminor watches, notable for their use by Italian commando frogmen.

Just take one look at that watch you posted and see what cues it gives to you. They say you can tell a man by his watch and his shoes, so there you have one aspect of wearing Panerai, but only one.

I wouldn't concern myself so much with the whys of high-end watches, just enjoy them!

 

[vagarach]

.

 

[braillediver]

"They say you can tell a man by his watch and his shoes"

I don't wear a watch. What's that mean? Tell Me!!


Mitch

 

[Duggeh]

We might be able to tell you have a nickel allergy?

 

[chesebert]

For the same price I would go with JLC...atleast you know the movement is exclusive and they test it for few weeks...

 

[tjkurita]

These are my shoes. I need all the help I can get!

The balance assembly of a watch regulates the rate at which the spring unwinds. The escapement gives the watch its "beat." The keyless works is the winding and setting device that lets you forego the winding key that is used in some pocket watches and most home clocks. There are lots of other components, like the wheel train and complications like chronos and alarms and time zones and everything else you can imagine.

But the mechanical watch can inspire awe with its combination of simplicity and complication.