[joseph69]

  Does that mean if someone gave you their USA purchased serial number you could have given that to them and they would have mailed them to you?
Can't imagine them asking you to send the SR-009's to them so they can verify the number.

I didn't send them my 009…I just asked for replacement pads for backup, and I had to give them the serial # and they wouldn't deal with me being I didn't purchase the 009 from them. I would never had given them a false serial # anyway. I managed to purchase an authentic BNIB pair of pads from an eBay seller.

 

[Golfnutz]

  I didn't send them my 009…I just asked for replacement pads for backup, and I had to give them the serial # and they wouldn't deal with me being I didn't purchase the 009 from them. I would never had given them a false serial # anyway. I managed to purchase an authentic BNIB pair of pads from an eBay seller.

I didn't say you sent them. I just said if you gave them a legit serial number, would you have to send them in anyway so they could verify the number you gave them (which I doubt you would).
 
There are other authorized dealers in the USA that sell the SR-009. Are you saying they only service the ones they sell? Doesn't sound right to me.
 
Not sure what you mean by a false number. What's the difference if you know someone who has a USA purchased SR-009. They could purchase them for you, or you just give them that serial number. You make it sound like this is just totally unethical. I thought this was about purchasing some back-up pads, not something from the TSCA list.

 

[joseph69]

 
I didn't say you sent them. I just said if you gave them a legit serial number, would you have to send them in anyway so they could verify the number you gave them (which I doubt you would).
 
There are other authorized dealers in the USA that sell the SR-009. Are you saying they only service the ones they sell? Doesn't sound right to me.
 
Not sure what you mean by a false number. What's the difference if you know someone who has a USA purchased SR-009. They could purchase them for you, or you just give them that serial number. You make it sound like this is just totally unethical. I thought this was about purchasing some back-up pads, not something from the TSCA list.

I'm only telling you my experience with Stax U.S.A. 
I'm not trying to make anything sound unethical. I guess as long as they know they were purchased from them (Stax U.S.A.) they will deal with you…otherwise I think your out of luck if they were bought in Japan. All I was trying to do was get some backup pads from Stax U.S.A. (didn't try any other U.S. dealers) and they wouldn't deal with me because I didn't purchase my 009 from them, I purchased them from PJ. Maybe another U.S. dealer would have dealt with me, I don't know? Anyway, good luck with getting your 009 fixed. 

 

[Golfnutz]

  I'm only telling you my experience with Stax U.S.A. 
I'm not trying to make anything sound unethical. I guess as long as they know they were purchased from them (Stax U.S.A.) they will deal with you…otherwise I think your out of luck if they were bought in Japan. All I was trying to do was get some backup pads from Stax U.S.A. (didn't try any other U.S. dealers) and they wouldn't deal with me because I didn't purchase my 009 from them, I purchased them from PJ. Maybe another U.S. dealer would have dealt with me, I don't know? Anyway, good luck with getting your 009 fixed. 

Hahahah, should have left the first part in

 
Thanks for the reply.

 

[Hubert481]

anybody know whether a vintage SRM-T1 driver would do a decent job for the SR-009? I plan on keeping the T1 for a while with my 404LE, and thinking of the 009 as an upgrade sometime next year partly because I read that the 007 seems more finicky and harder to drive. I won't have the ability to get a Blue Hawaii or other high end amp.

I am also interested, if t1 with sr-009 will sound great.

 

[purk]

I am also interested, if t1 with sr-009 will sound great.

I would get the 323s or 717 instead. The T1 will work best with Lambda pro.

 

[vitop]

For under 1500$ the SRM-727 is best choice out there. Better just leave it as it is (i.e not modify it) as the softer top end works with the 009. I've also compared the GES and WES side by side and preferred the GES by a large margin with SR-007 Mk2 (SZ3 version).

Quote:


That is the biggest load of BS I've heard in a while. Pure and utter stupidity form somebody who hasn't even got even the slightest clue what they are talking about.

The stock SRM-T2 ran hot (about 65°C on the top plate) but both the BHSE and T2DIY would be categorized and running pretty cool given the amount of power they are dissipating. They are a far cry from even the cool running Class A speaker amps.

In your opinion, what would be the best match to a SR007 in about the same price category?

 

[JimL11]

In your opinion, what would be the best match to a SR007 in about the same price category?

By price category if you mean around $1500 or less, I would say the SRM717 (which I have not heard) is the most competently designed amp. The SRM-727 with global feedback mod, which I used to own, is OK and reportedly better than the 717, but what I like best for an inexpensive amp is the CCS-modded SRM-T1 (or SRM-006 which is the same basic design). The non-modded T1/006 doesn't have quite enough power and tends to have a soft bass and missing highs especially as you turn it up. None of these matches a BHSE but that's way outside your price category.

 

[vitop]

Thanks again Jim
Sounds like the most plug and play would be a 717, but to get the most out of it an SRM-T1 or SRM-006 but I would have to do some work with it.
Gives me some things to look for. Would be nice to have one of each!

 

[JimL11]

Yes, the 717 is plug and play. The 727 is a slightly better design with the global feedback mod, the T1 is less powerful than either but I like its tone better when modded. Of course the mods void the warranty on the 727. The T1 is old enough that it is out of warranty anyway, and would need replacement of its electrolytic caps as routine maintenance (they were only designed to last 10-20 years.

 

[vitop]

Well, I found and bought a 717. Now I need to wait for it to get here. I definitely need to find a way to switch over to 117V. I actually found a little something on a different thread and am trying to get clarification. Once I understand exactly what I need to do, I'm going to try and modify it.

 

[vitop]

The amp arrived today! I need to open it up this evening and take a few pics of the inside. Hopefully I can figure out how to convert this thing

 

[vitop]

ok, so I couldn't wait...
I opened it up and stupid question #1 (more to follow)
I assume all the wires are normally soldered onto the transformer posts and that what gets cut are the wires from the inside of the transformer to the post. Assuming thats correct, you absolutely have to take that top board off. I think I read it is just double taped onto the transformer? It is hard to tell if the fuse is part of the board of if the board is just resting on the fuse posts. You just pry the board off while trying not to break it, I assume?