wakibaki
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Touched a raw nerve there, evidently.
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Premium Grade solder?
- Thread starter ROBSCIX
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zool
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I use standard 60/37 for just general electronic work/repairs etc. No sense in using the fancy stuff on that crap 
. But I think thickness make a difference here.. I like the really thin wire for repairs and PCB work. I use 0.5mm for that. I have a full spool of 60/40 solder that I never use, don't like it at all.
I've used WBT-0800 for cables and other audio equipment work. Not sure how much of a difference the 4% silver makes especially on amps where the pins on the caps/components don't even contain copper or silver to begin with. Maybe it'll have some difference when soldering copper to copper or silver etc (like in cables). I still use it on amps though, just for peace of mind and also WBT-0800 is a pleasure to work with. I'll have to give cardas quad eutectic a try next time I need to get some more solder.
I'd be interested in trying Mundorf supreme for cables. But I don't think I would like so much heat on my iron for PCB work. I'd rather use leaded solder for that.
I just recently got a new soldering station that is 90W and that made a huge improvement when working on cables and other stuff that need more heat and have larger areas on which to solder. It also has a tip that is specially made for leadfree solder. Not sure how much the special tip helped or if it was mostly the higher wattage but working with leadfree solder is much easier now than with my old 48W station.
Having said that I sill prefer leaded solder and I think you get better and more quality solder joints with it. Some times leadfree solder looks kind of grayish and almost looks like a cold solder joint but most of the time it is just the material and flux (or lack of) that make it look that way.
. But I think thickness make a difference here.. I like the really thin wire for repairs and PCB work. I use 0.5mm for that. I have a full spool of 60/40 solder that I never use, don't like it at all.I've used WBT-0800 for cables and other audio equipment work. Not sure how much of a difference the 4% silver makes especially on amps where the pins on the caps/components don't even contain copper or silver to begin with. Maybe it'll have some difference when soldering copper to copper or silver etc (like in cables). I still use it on amps though, just for peace of mind and also WBT-0800 is a pleasure to work with. I'll have to give cardas quad eutectic a try next time I need to get some more solder.
I'd be interested in trying Mundorf supreme for cables. But I don't think I would like so much heat on my iron for PCB work. I'd rather use leaded solder for that.
I just recently got a new soldering station that is 90W and that made a huge improvement when working on cables and other stuff that need more heat and have larger areas on which to solder. It also has a tip that is specially made for leadfree solder. Not sure how much the special tip helped or if it was mostly the higher wattage but working with leadfree solder is much easier now than with my old 48W station.
Having said that I sill prefer leaded solder and I think you get better and more quality solder joints with it. Some times leadfree solder looks kind of grayish and almost looks like a cold solder joint but most of the time it is just the material and flux (or lack of) that make it look that way.
dwib44
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I just used 60/40 rosin core radioshack solder for my audio technica m50 detachable cable mod and it worked great!
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