tommyatkins
500+ Head-Fier
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- Sep 18, 2002
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EDIT: Dang this looks long, but I promise it won't take that long to read. Most of the real estate is parts.
So here is my list of parts for my PPA. I have a few questions which aren't particularly necessary to have answered, but maybe it'll help others out. I know I found cyntax's list and following discussion helpful. Most parts are right from Tangent's guide. There are a few variations, and I had a few questions, so I decided to post in the hopes that it will be helpful to others, as well as to me.
I often note the prices of things, or particular options. When I do so, I am usually talking about the total cost if I went with that option (ie. to change both C2 and C5 would take a total of 9 caps, so I list the total price of 9 caps). I give these types of details hoping that it might help someone who is in a similar situation to me. I haven't seen much in the way of specific prices linked to particular part selection. I've done a good deal of reading, thinking, and weighing/comparing prices, so maybe someone will find this useful.
(All resistors are Vishay/Dale 1/4W 1% Metal Film Resistors unless otherwise noted)
R1 (3) - 4.32K
R2 (3) - 1M
R3 (3) - 1K
R4 (3) - 10K
R5 (2) - 3.32k
R6 (2) - 1M
R7 (2 each) - 10K, 15K, 22K, 47K, 75K, 100K (for experimentation)
R8 (3 each) - from 10 - 1k of KOA Speer 1/4Watt Axial Leaded Carbon Film Resistors 5% BULK (yes a lot, 46 values in fact. Total = $6.90. I'll find uses for the ones I don't use).
R9 (3) - 1K
R11 (3) - 1K
R12 (3) - 1K
R13 (3) - 1K
R14 (3) - 1K
Maybe R8G (1) - 1M (Didn't I recall Morsel saying the R8 on the ground could be left open? I was just going to buy an extra one, in case I found that post again. It's only $0.06)
C1 (2) - Nichicon UPW Radial Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors 35V 1000uF 12.5x25 (Mouser: 647-UPW1V102MHH)
C2 (3) - Vishay/Roederstein Metallized Polyester Film Capacitors 1.5uF 50V 5% (Mouser: 75-MKT1826515054)
C3 (3) - Vishay/Roederstein Metallized Polyester Film Capacitors 0.1uF 63V 5% (Mouser: 75-MKT1826410064)
C4 (6) - Nichicon UPW Radial Aluminum Electrolytic 35V 100uF 8X11.5 (Mouser: 647-UPW1V101MPH)
C5 (6) - Vishay/Roederstein Metallized Polyester Film Capacitors 1.5uF 50V 5% (Mouser: 75-MKT1826515054)
C6 (1) - Kemet Radial Ceramic 200V C0G 10pF 5% (Mouser: 80-C315C100J2G)
C7 (2) - .12, .091, .075, .068, .051, .039 uF BC Components Metallized Polypropylene CAP FILM MKP 63VDC 2%
Q1 (3) - Fairchild 2N5484 Transistor (Mouser: 512-2N5484)
Q2 (3) - Fairchild 2N5486 Transistor (Mouser: 512-2N5486)
Q3 (12) - Fairchild 2N5486 Transistor (Mouser: 512-2N5486)
D1 (1) - Rectron Rectifiers, Silicon DO-41 1A, 50 Prv (Mouser: 583-1N4001)
FET (1) - Fairchild 2N5484 Transistor (Mouser: 512-2N5484)
ZNR (1) - ? (see below)
LED (1) - Blue (Mouser: 606-CMD264UBC) or Amber (Mouser: 512-HLMP1719) Probably Amber, I'm traditional (but not red traditional
)
S1 (1) - E-Switch Rocker Switches DPDT ON-ON PNL 10A (Mouser: 612-RR3130B) - Yeah Rocker Switch (Seriously, I'm stoked about this part)
S2 (1) - E-Switch DPDT ON-ON SLDR MNT (Mouser: 612-100-F2311)
Out (1) - Neutrik Phone Jack 3C 1/4" CHASSIS-JACK (Mouser: 568-NJ3FP6C)
IN (2) - DGS RCA Phono Jacks, Nickel: Red and Black (Mouser: 161-2002, 161-2003)
Sockets (23) - Mill Max (Mouser: 575-113308)
Molex KK 3C HEADER (Mouser: 538-22-23-2031)
Molex KK 3 CKT HOUSING (Mouser: 538-22-01-3037)
Molex KK CRIMP TERM 22-30 TIN (Mouser: 538-08-50-0114)
Power Jack: Deltron DIN Connectors JACK 5 PIN BLACK (Mouser: 164-2521) (EDIT: I had forgotten this in the original post, so I include it for reference, but I am not going to go this route)
Power Supply: Elpac WM071-1950-D5 7.5 Watts 15V/-15V (Mouser: 680-WM071-1950-D5)
Enclosure: Hammonds 1455n1601BK, Black with Metal Panels (Mouser: 546-1455N1601BK)
I'll order all I can from Tangent. Hard to beat the prices, and I know the very little profit he makes on this helps off set his cost of development (not to mention the all the time he and the other put into the project).
OPAMP (3) - AD8610 mounted on Adaptors
VOL (1) - Alps Blue, 50k
TLE (3) - Texas Instruments TLE2426CLP ("rail splitter")
PPA PCB (1) - It kinda makes the process a bit easier.
Finally Buffers from Newark (Arrow seems to be out, I will call though):
BUF (12) - Intersil HA3-5002-5 (Newark: 06F5241)
Totals (not including shipping):
Mouser = A squigen under $130
Tangent = $68.53
Newark = $46.20
R7 - Is this a good mix, for experimenting with bass boost values?
C1 What is the maximum clearance in the Hammonds case if I want to use a battery board? From the pictures, it seemed like 25mm should work. I didn't notice much on this (I couldn't find Doobooloo's height of his too-tall C1 caps).
C2/C5 - I can't really decide here for every .5uF (over 1uF it's about an additional $11. I'm thinking I'll go middle ground with the 1.5uF caps. Any input?
C3 - So I only add this if the amp isn't stable right? It's better to have it out? I was just going to order both .01uF and .1 uF, to have both options, if I needed to. It's only $0.63 for each set.
C7 - This one part's gonna cost around 15 bucks with shipping, and a $5 handling charge. I may shift some of the parts from Mouser which cost almost the same to boost my order above $25, and avoid the handling charge. (assuming the net difference is less than $5...).
ZNR - Not sure what the different voltages mean, I'll research this. Also, I'm not sure on how many batteries I'll have (I'm going to make the batt board when I have some more money some time). I had planned on purchasing all the Zener Diodes Tangent suggests (20 of 'em, but only like $0.80 total)
I may go with some other input jacks (Gold methinks). I might also give it two inputs (All I'd need is another DTDP switch - like S2 - and two more RCA Jacks, right?
I am going with the 30V Elpac as I think I will need this when I add the battery board (based on the measurements I've made from the Tangent's guide). This gives me a bit more flexablity later on.
I think I have selected the correct power jack. From the data sheet, it seems the 15v/-15v Elpac uses a 5-Din connector.
Not sure if I'm going to use the Hammonds Case, I might build a wood one, or just paint the Case all fancy-like (I can't remember who, but some head-fier posted a really fun looking one)
Ok I wasn't sure what the Molex Crimp Terminals are for, but I figured it out as I was typing (I think) so I'll include it for others who might have questions. Only $0.21, so I was just going to figure it out when I got it. As I understand it the Molex KK is so the wire for the DC jack isn't directly attached to the board. The Molex KK system is where you buy a header (which goes on the board? or maybe its the housing) and a housing (which goes on the wires?) but you purchase the number of terminals (ie wires to be put in the housing) separately, then assemble the housing and terminals. This is so you can actually attach the wires to the terminals easily (otherwise space is cramped).
I will also be adding a crossfeed board (the one from Tangent) this will attenuate the signal, but I don't really need to adjust any of my parts right?
Please make any other comments on part selection, if you wish.
FYI, I play on listing with my AKG K501s to my computer, Sony D-25s, and some old JVC TT with a Nad PP-1 Phono Preamp.
Thanks to the whole PPA team, great work (I heard a prototype at the June Bay Area meet), and thanks for the help.
(I've previewed this a bunch of times, ironing out some errors, and formatting. It's 2 am now- Happy Halloween!- and I have class tomorrow, so goodnight, and I hope it's readable).
So here is my list of parts for my PPA. I have a few questions which aren't particularly necessary to have answered, but maybe it'll help others out. I know I found cyntax's list and following discussion helpful. Most parts are right from Tangent's guide. There are a few variations, and I had a few questions, so I decided to post in the hopes that it will be helpful to others, as well as to me.
I often note the prices of things, or particular options. When I do so, I am usually talking about the total cost if I went with that option (ie. to change both C2 and C5 would take a total of 9 caps, so I list the total price of 9 caps). I give these types of details hoping that it might help someone who is in a similar situation to me. I haven't seen much in the way of specific prices linked to particular part selection. I've done a good deal of reading, thinking, and weighing/comparing prices, so maybe someone will find this useful.
(All resistors are Vishay/Dale 1/4W 1% Metal Film Resistors unless otherwise noted)
R1 (3) - 4.32K
R2 (3) - 1M
R3 (3) - 1K
R4 (3) - 10K
R5 (2) - 3.32k
R6 (2) - 1M
R7 (2 each) - 10K, 15K, 22K, 47K, 75K, 100K (for experimentation)
R8 (3 each) - from 10 - 1k of KOA Speer 1/4Watt Axial Leaded Carbon Film Resistors 5% BULK (yes a lot, 46 values in fact. Total = $6.90. I'll find uses for the ones I don't use).
R9 (3) - 1K
R11 (3) - 1K
R12 (3) - 1K
R13 (3) - 1K
R14 (3) - 1K
Maybe R8G (1) - 1M (Didn't I recall Morsel saying the R8 on the ground could be left open? I was just going to buy an extra one, in case I found that post again. It's only $0.06)
C1 (2) - Nichicon UPW Radial Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors 35V 1000uF 12.5x25 (Mouser: 647-UPW1V102MHH)
C2 (3) - Vishay/Roederstein Metallized Polyester Film Capacitors 1.5uF 50V 5% (Mouser: 75-MKT1826515054)
C3 (3) - Vishay/Roederstein Metallized Polyester Film Capacitors 0.1uF 63V 5% (Mouser: 75-MKT1826410064)
C4 (6) - Nichicon UPW Radial Aluminum Electrolytic 35V 100uF 8X11.5 (Mouser: 647-UPW1V101MPH)
C5 (6) - Vishay/Roederstein Metallized Polyester Film Capacitors 1.5uF 50V 5% (Mouser: 75-MKT1826515054)
C6 (1) - Kemet Radial Ceramic 200V C0G 10pF 5% (Mouser: 80-C315C100J2G)
C7 (2) - .12, .091, .075, .068, .051, .039 uF BC Components Metallized Polypropylene CAP FILM MKP 63VDC 2%
Q1 (3) - Fairchild 2N5484 Transistor (Mouser: 512-2N5484)
Q2 (3) - Fairchild 2N5486 Transistor (Mouser: 512-2N5486)
Q3 (12) - Fairchild 2N5486 Transistor (Mouser: 512-2N5486)
D1 (1) - Rectron Rectifiers, Silicon DO-41 1A, 50 Prv (Mouser: 583-1N4001)
FET (1) - Fairchild 2N5484 Transistor (Mouser: 512-2N5484)
ZNR (1) - ? (see below)
LED (1) - Blue (Mouser: 606-CMD264UBC) or Amber (Mouser: 512-HLMP1719) Probably Amber, I'm traditional (but not red traditional
S1 (1) - E-Switch Rocker Switches DPDT ON-ON PNL 10A (Mouser: 612-RR3130B) - Yeah Rocker Switch (Seriously, I'm stoked about this part)
S2 (1) - E-Switch DPDT ON-ON SLDR MNT (Mouser: 612-100-F2311)
Out (1) - Neutrik Phone Jack 3C 1/4" CHASSIS-JACK (Mouser: 568-NJ3FP6C)
IN (2) - DGS RCA Phono Jacks, Nickel: Red and Black (Mouser: 161-2002, 161-2003)
Sockets (23) - Mill Max (Mouser: 575-113308)
Molex KK 3C HEADER (Mouser: 538-22-23-2031)
Molex KK 3 CKT HOUSING (Mouser: 538-22-01-3037)
Molex KK CRIMP TERM 22-30 TIN (Mouser: 538-08-50-0114)
Power Jack: Deltron DIN Connectors JACK 5 PIN BLACK (Mouser: 164-2521) (EDIT: I had forgotten this in the original post, so I include it for reference, but I am not going to go this route)
Power Supply: Elpac WM071-1950-D5 7.5 Watts 15V/-15V (Mouser: 680-WM071-1950-D5)
Enclosure: Hammonds 1455n1601BK, Black with Metal Panels (Mouser: 546-1455N1601BK)
I'll order all I can from Tangent. Hard to beat the prices, and I know the very little profit he makes on this helps off set his cost of development (not to mention the all the time he and the other put into the project).
OPAMP (3) - AD8610 mounted on Adaptors
VOL (1) - Alps Blue, 50k
TLE (3) - Texas Instruments TLE2426CLP ("rail splitter")
PPA PCB (1) - It kinda makes the process a bit easier.
Finally Buffers from Newark (Arrow seems to be out, I will call though):
BUF (12) - Intersil HA3-5002-5 (Newark: 06F5241)
Totals (not including shipping):
Mouser = A squigen under $130
Tangent = $68.53
Newark = $46.20
R7 - Is this a good mix, for experimenting with bass boost values?
C1 What is the maximum clearance in the Hammonds case if I want to use a battery board? From the pictures, it seemed like 25mm should work. I didn't notice much on this (I couldn't find Doobooloo's height of his too-tall C1 caps).
C2/C5 - I can't really decide here for every .5uF (over 1uF it's about an additional $11. I'm thinking I'll go middle ground with the 1.5uF caps. Any input?
C3 - So I only add this if the amp isn't stable right? It's better to have it out? I was just going to order both .01uF and .1 uF, to have both options, if I needed to. It's only $0.63 for each set.
C7 - This one part's gonna cost around 15 bucks with shipping, and a $5 handling charge. I may shift some of the parts from Mouser which cost almost the same to boost my order above $25, and avoid the handling charge. (assuming the net difference is less than $5...).
ZNR - Not sure what the different voltages mean, I'll research this. Also, I'm not sure on how many batteries I'll have (I'm going to make the batt board when I have some more money some time). I had planned on purchasing all the Zener Diodes Tangent suggests (20 of 'em, but only like $0.80 total)
I may go with some other input jacks (Gold methinks). I might also give it two inputs (All I'd need is another DTDP switch - like S2 - and two more RCA Jacks, right?
I am going with the 30V Elpac as I think I will need this when I add the battery board (based on the measurements I've made from the Tangent's guide). This gives me a bit more flexablity later on.
I think I have selected the correct power jack. From the data sheet, it seems the 15v/-15v Elpac uses a 5-Din connector.
Not sure if I'm going to use the Hammonds Case, I might build a wood one, or just paint the Case all fancy-like (I can't remember who, but some head-fier posted a really fun looking one)
Ok I wasn't sure what the Molex Crimp Terminals are for, but I figured it out as I was typing (I think) so I'll include it for others who might have questions. Only $0.21, so I was just going to figure it out when I got it. As I understand it the Molex KK is so the wire for the DC jack isn't directly attached to the board. The Molex KK system is where you buy a header (which goes on the board? or maybe its the housing) and a housing (which goes on the wires?) but you purchase the number of terminals (ie wires to be put in the housing) separately, then assemble the housing and terminals. This is so you can actually attach the wires to the terminals easily (otherwise space is cramped).
I will also be adding a crossfeed board (the one from Tangent) this will attenuate the signal, but I don't really need to adjust any of my parts right?
Please make any other comments on part selection, if you wish.
FYI, I play on listing with my AKG K501s to my computer, Sony D-25s, and some old JVC TT with a Nad PP-1 Phono Preamp.
Thanks to the whole PPA team, great work (I heard a prototype at the June Bay Area meet), and thanks for the help.
(I've previewed this a bunch of times, ironing out some errors, and formatting. It's 2 am now- Happy Halloween!- and I have class tomorrow, so goodnight, and I hope it's readable).