positional audio for competitive fps
Sep 28, 2019 at 11:04 PM Post #16 of 37
hi guys i actually have ad700x + Sound Blaster Z with that settings:
windows : 5.1
ingame : headphones
pro studio settings
surround : 50%
crystalizer : off
bass : off
and I didn't like the positional accuracy,i know ad700x is a good competitive headphone and sb z have good surround,but what is wrong?i m planning to upgrade my system and buy b350 msi thunder motherboard...is worth hold and setup up my sound card,buy better sound card or amp/dac?
most important thing for me is positional accuracy
You might be sending the SB-Z the wrong signals for it to process SBX Headphone surround sound.
The sound card needs 6-channels (5.1) of PCM (uncompressed) digital audio feed into it to do it's best processing.
When you set the game to "Headphone", the game itself might be processing the audio and outputting a 2.0 signal, which would go to the sound card (SB-Z) and not give the SB-Z what it needs.
Setting the games audio to output a 6-channel (5.1) setting (might be a "Speaker 5.1" setting) might help the SB-Z more correctly process it's SBX Headphone surround sound.
 
Sep 29, 2019 at 9:35 AM Post #17 of 37
You could also check this out: https://sourceforge.net/projects/hesuvi/

No need to change hardware, and totally free. Just started playing around myself, so I can't really say how effective it is yet (also my laptop is only 2 channel so I need to use the KS repeater method)

That's im gonna make this evening on my laptop. Any tips?

I made it work on my pc, much more easily, because Ive got a realtek modded drivers that give me 7.1 option on the headphone jack output. So amaze
 
Sep 29, 2019 at 1:23 PM Post #18 of 37
That's im gonna make this evening on my laptop. Any tips?

I made it work on my pc, much more easily, because Ive got a realtek modded drivers that give me 7.1 option on the headphone jack output. So amaze

Hmm. You got a link for those modded drivers? I wouldn't mind giving them a try, if they'd work - my laptop (Acer Nitro BE) has absolute garbage SST audio so finding functional drivers is a big issue (I'd be using Win 7 if drivers were available)
 
Sep 29, 2019 at 1:30 PM Post #19 of 37
You might be sending the SB-Z the wrong signals for it to process SBX Headphone surround sound.
The sound card needs 6-channels (5.1) of PCM (uncompressed) digital audio feed into it to do it's best processing.
When you set the game to "Headphone", the game itself might be processing the audio and outputting a 2.0 signal, which would go to the sound card (SB-Z) and not give the SB-Z what it needs.
Setting the games audio to output a 6-channel (5.1) setting (might be a "Speaker 5.1" setting) might help the SB-Z more correctly process it's SBX Headphone surround sound.
thanks for the reply really :D...then i fuxxed sbx sorround because my in games settings they were wrong,in game like modern warfare 2019 with that audio settings which is the best for sorround accuracy?
https://www.infinityward.com/news/2019-09/modern_warfare_audio_settings
and for cs go?
 
Sep 29, 2019 at 2:50 PM Post #22 of 37
Hmm. You got a link for those modded drivers? I wouldn't mind giving them a try, if they'd work - my laptop (Acer Nitro BE) has absolute garbage SST audio so finding functional drivers is a big issue (I'd be using Win 7 if drivers were available)

https://www.gizdev.com/get-dolby-atmos-sound-system-dts-audio-with-realtek-mod-driver/ These one are which im using on my main pc with asus maximus VII mobo (realtek inside) allowing to use hesuvi without the cable method
https://www.techpowerup.com/forums/...n8-1-win10-post-your-mods.250915/post-4107472 These one are which im using on the laptop (realtek as well) but dont let me choose 7.1 on headphone output

Use with precaution, could cause BSOD on startup. Check first on bios if u could lock audio card to pass the blue screen an unninstall the conflict driver
 
Sep 29, 2019 at 6:47 PM Post #25 of 37
thanks for the reply really :D...then i fuxxed sbx sorround because my in games settings they were wrong,in game like modern warfare 2019 with that audio settings which is the best for sorround accuracy?
https://www.infinityward.com/news/2019-09/modern_warfare_audio_settings
and for cs go?

Any of the first three mixes is what I would use.
The dynamic range for when I am listening >75dB reference levels, the 75dB would fit my usual sound levels for action gaming, or the infinity ward mix for lower levels (ie night with open back headphones in the same room as family..)

as for CS GO, the setup my thread post link above suggested, is true for all games when a plugin is used elsewhere on the system to create the headphone experience.
Just stay true to the formula: set windows for 5.1/6.1/7.1 etc, set the game to give full dynamic range sound to the speakers, and then have your preferred headphone renderer (for me it is an Asus Essence STX =>dolby headphone).

That way the soundfield is lossless quality audio, with little to no compression, rendered accurately into a surround field using clever HRTFs for two channel (headphone) appreciation.
 
Sep 29, 2019 at 6:56 PM Post #26 of 37
sorry but at this point is better for me sell sbz and buy a good dac/amp for better audio quality and use hesuvi for sorround right?
Not sure what the resale is on that part, but I would suggest that it is worth having a nicer method to lift/send digital audio from a PC.
Most people swear by USB (due to the lack of limits as we go high bitrate and sample depth), but I would take COAX and or Fibre optic passout (even with their limits) due to already having some nice cables (ie not bargain basement stuff) for those formats.
Digital audio, especially super bandwidth formats, require a little more from a cable than the USB spec ever wanted to deliver. for printers, that can simply request a bad packet again, and have it resent, any old cable will do- it won’t make ANY difference.
For audio, the best bargain under the sun for USB cables would be the Schiit USB cable. Its a funny read and worth the price just for a laugh and a sense of feeling like ‘one less problem’.
In my present rig I spent five minutes trying to fix the USB audio problem. (Mostly cable remanagement, but a few filters etc as well), and that got rid of the OBVIOUS sound degradation. The Schiit USB cable would greatly ease my mind, and depending on your job, might be worth more than twenty minutes of your life lost, each time someone vacuums behind your PC/near the powerboards and has the USB cable start generating noise or sounding worse.

https://www.schiit.com/products/pyst-cables


Not all motherboards are created equal, especially not with regards to USB implementation. If using motherboard USB output (which includes the ports on top/front of a computer), a little knowledge as to your mainboard and what is your best bet to use would be worthwhile.
OR you could use COAX output from an audio card (with design considerations going into build, etc and awareness of the horrid electrical environment found in PCs (noisy)); an audio card worth maybe $500 a few years ago, can often be found for pennies today, and the quality of their digital output can often be amazing.

Instead of people thinking I am nuts for believing in digital cables mattering; I am not. I AM a scientist.
I perform tests and observe and report.
Something, recently, which blew me away, was a Netgear EVA9000. It is a media playback box with a harddrive in it.. The TOSLINK output from that device gave the most amazing soundfield placement I had heard from a dolby digital device, since $3000 DVD players were a norm.
Sure digital is 0s and 1s,.. but the (acceptable)error rates build into modern world audio is incredible. Reducing the sheer number of screw ups (via cables and better power regulation/living on the moon) makes for massively better sound.
Most people won’t own the front end equipment to reveal the differences, but it isn’t to say that differences are not there.
 
Last edited:
Sep 30, 2019 at 5:58 AM Post #27 of 37
Not sure what the resale is on that part, but I would suggest that it is worth having a nicer method to lift/send digital audio from a PC.
Most people swear by USB (due to the lack of limits as we go high bitrate and sample depth), but I would take COAX and or Fibre optic passout (even with their limits) due to already having some nice cables (ie not bargain basement stuff) for those formats.
Digital audio, especially super bandwidth formats, require a little more from a cable than the USB spec ever wanted to deliver. for printers, that can simply request a bad packet again, and have it resent, any old cable will do- it won’t make ANY difference.
For audio, the best bargain under the sun for USB cables would be the Schiit USB cable. Its a funny read and worth the price just for a laugh and a sense of feeling like ‘one less problem’.
In my present rig I spent five minutes trying to fix the USB audio problem. (Mostly cable remanagement, but a few filters etc as well), and that got rid of the OBVIOUS sound degradation. The Schiit USB cable would greatly ease my mind, and depending on your job, might be worth more than twenty minutes of your life lost, each time someone vacuums behind your PC/near the powerboards and has the USB cable start generating noise or sounding worse.

https://www.schiit.com/products/pyst-cables


Not all motherboards are created equal, especially not with regards to USB implementation. If using motherboard USB output (which includes the ports on top/front of a computer), a little knowledge as to your mainboard and what is your best bet to use would be worthwhile.
OR you could use COAX output from an audio card (with design considerations going into build, etc and awareness of the horrid electrical environment found in PCs (noisy)); an audio card worth maybe $500 a few years ago, can often be found for pennies today, and the quality of their digital output can often be amazing.

Instead of people thinking I am nuts for believing in digital cables mattering; I am not. I AM a scientist.
I perform tests and observe and report.
Something, recently, which blew me away, was a Netgear EVA9000. It is a media playback box with a harddrive in it.. The TOSLINK output from that device gave the most amazing soundfield placement I had heard from a dolby digital device, since $3000 DVD players were a norm.
Sure digital is 0s and 1s,.. but the (acceptable)error rates build into modern world audio is incredible. Reducing the sheer number of screw ups (via cables and better power regulation/living on the moon) makes for massively better sound.
Most people won’t own the front end equipment to reveal the differences, but it isn’t to say that differences are not there.

Hi mate, and thanks for ur comments.

I got a Dac, but its only offers stereo output via headphones on windows.
What is the best way to use hesuvi with a DAC? I check the cable input method, but I dont know if this is the best way to achieve the surround on headphones. Could u recomend a guide to do it better?
 
Sep 30, 2019 at 6:29 AM Post #29 of 37
Hi mate, and thanks for ur comments.

I got a Dac, but its only offers stereo output via headphones on windows.
What is the best way to use hesuvi with a DAC? I check the cable input method, but I dont know if this is the best way to achieve the surround on headphones. Could u recomend a guide to do it better?

Would love to help out. Sadly I am not using the software,.. my preference being towards hardware, and having my PC set up already.
Normally I would have a machine to tinker with, but they have mostly been overtaken with Win10 and are laptops, so would likely run in to a few of the issues that others (with laptops) are hitting; not being able to configure Windows to run with 5.1, and then the game not being able to output in surround sound (5.1).
That software, it seems, is just like my ASUS soundcards software, that so long as I can configure the computer and the game to surround sound speakers: the software can make use of the multichannel audio and use HRTFs to encode the directional cues accurately.
The advantage of that software is the sheer number of modules it includes.
Given the importance of time, to us all, I would encourage uses consider spending a few dollars on any official plugin that gets them out of trouble.
eg Windows Sonic. (which I have zero opinion about)
my normal techie thing would be to try and do this and write some guide notes as I ‘go along’,.. but I simply don’t have the machine free, and I don’t want to touch my gaming rig (if it ain’t broke:wink:.

Surely someone here could confirm if a digital output on a PC can be configured with an encoded ‘HESUVI’ signal.!?
Any steps to get a user up and running?

Good luck.
I wont deny I have bought turtle beach earforce modules (and even an Outlaw 990 preamp) as hardware dolby headphone encoders. For PC gaming it still required me to pass on a dolby digital 5.1 output, something that came with ‘n-force’ boards (made by nvidia and was basis of the xbox sound to allow all games to output surround sound in dolby digital). Literally microsoft saw an opportunity to make the console better than the typical PC for loungeroom duties and killed of PC audio around that time. It hasn’t really bounced back in any unified way.
By using the methods given here, stating “windows to 5.1/6.1 etc”, game to “high dynamic range surround sound” and then having a dolby headphone encoder (or any of a range of similar technologies) is the best start to getting on the right track.
If HESUVI allows encoding the digital output, I reckon it would be easy to make use of an external DAC with (effective) headphone surround
 
Sep 30, 2019 at 1:28 PM Post #30 of 37
Mate did u try the drivers for realtek?

I gave the modded drivers in the first link you provided. I could only select stereo for my output format so I still needed to use vcable and ks repeater. I also couldn't get the Atmos App running. I got it installed, but it just kept telling me I needed to have headphones plugged in - even though they were plugged in. Luckily, I made a Macrium backup before I tried installing them so I just restored the way it was (I was also hoping those modded drivers would have the option to disable power management, but no joy there either).
Going the KS repeater also lets me use my Fiio X3 as a DAC, but even though the sound is better, I keep getting buffer underruns or something that make a near constant ticking. I haven't gone about trying to troubleshoot that yet
 

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