Pics of the Gilmore amp on 16 pin DIP sockets
Apr 24, 2004 at 5:48 AM Post #2 of 23

usc goose

Headphoneus Supremus
Joined
Mar 25, 2003
Posts
4,294
Likes
22
eek.gif


nice work
smily_headphones1.gif
 
Apr 24, 2004 at 6:30 AM Post #4 of 23

Glassman

Headphoneus Supremus
Joined
Mar 22, 2003
Posts
1,830
Likes
11
oh that's terrible, but highly interesting
biggrin.gif
 
Apr 24, 2004 at 7:46 AM Post #6 of 23

was ist los?

1000+ Head-Fier
Joined
Dec 25, 2002
Posts
1,332
Likes
11
Wow, it's a rat's nest on the bottom. I hope nothing shorts. Wow that must have taken a while to come up with the layout and solder. However, i am such a sucker for p2p wiring these days. I do it so often myself.
 
Apr 24, 2004 at 11:13 PM Post #7 of 23

dip16amp

100+ Head-Fier
Joined
Dec 17, 2003
Posts
430
Likes
10
It took a few hours to draw the layout from the schematic, then a few more hours to optimize and modify it. This is the sixth amp that I've done, (also have done the RA-1, Buffered Cmoy, Meta42, Pimeta, and PPA on sockets as shown on my web page) so it gets easier to do this with less errors in the process.
Soldering on the socket pins is less work than wiring on a proto board since the pins are firmly and evenly held in place and the solid 24 awg cat5 wire holds the sockets together. I keep the wire and solder above the shoulder of the pins so there is plenty of space between the soldered pins. Any wires that cross other pins or wires have the teflon insulation slid down the wire as I go on to solder it to the next pin. No problem with shorts. I use a wire list to make sure I get all the wires done on the right pins. It took me three hours to solder all the two and three pin wires (28 of them) and another three hours to do the last seven wires (four pin wires (2), seven pin wires (2), and ten pin wires (3)). Wire list is on my web page. It looks pretty crowded only after putting on the last few wires.
Anyways, this amp sounds really good with all my Grado headphones and I haven't gone back to any of my other amps for comparison yet. A balanced module can also be added to this later.
 
Apr 25, 2004 at 5:33 AM Post #11 of 23

dip16amp

100+ Head-Fier
Joined
Dec 17, 2003
Posts
430
Likes
10
I think it is easier to solder on the sockets because I don't have to worry about positioning the resistors and transistors as I solder. Plus I like to swap parts to tweak it after it's done. Same number of solder connections and I've got every connection numbered to the schematic for easy measurements. The small size is just an added result.
 
Apr 25, 2004 at 3:38 PM Post #12 of 23

dip16amp

100+ Head-Fier
Joined
Dec 17, 2003
Posts
430
Likes
10
The balanced add-on module provides a balanced output from an unbalanced input. If you have a balanced input and want a balanced output, then you would use two of the unbalanced modules per channel and you then have a four channel amp.
 
Apr 25, 2004 at 7:08 PM Post #13 of 23

Glassman

Headphoneus Supremus
Joined
Mar 22, 2003
Posts
1,830
Likes
11
Quote:

Originally Posted by dip16amp
If you have a balanced input and want a balanced output, then you would use two of the unbalanced modules per channel and you then have a four channel amp.


there's no need to do that, it's the same situation as as for unbalanced input, the only difference is that you won't tie the inverting input to ground but to the negative part of the input signal.. Gilmore's frontend will sum the balanced inputs..
 
Apr 25, 2004 at 7:30 PM Post #14 of 23

dip16amp

100+ Head-Fier
Joined
Dec 17, 2003
Posts
430
Likes
10
ok, that is easier. I just added the pic of the balanced module wiring. Since it adds another four sockets per channel for a total of 24 sockets per amp, the balanced DIP16AMP Gilmore is now the X24 version.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Top