[stuk0v]

Hello guys,
Complete newbie here... but since it seems that everytime I am searching for audio answers, I end up here so I finally signed up...
Hoping for some guidance here with a PC audio issue(microphone).

Unless someone has any suggestion for my microphone issue, I am going to be replacing my on-board audio with some kind of device that I could use help choosing.

Quick rundown of issue: microphone is very quiet and often produces hissing/static. Tried every possible setting, updated drivers, tried front and back ports, tried 3 different microphones. Only usable setting is 100% mic volume and 20-30db boost but even then it is hard to hear my voice.
This is on Win10 with ASUS P8Z77-V DX mobo (Realtek ALC898). Maybe onboard chip has issues?
I spent quite a bit of time trying to figure this out now and thought that maybe simply moving to a dedicated device would bypass the issue.

I am scratching my head in deciding what would make a good replacement. My needs are pretty basic, I want to decent sound quality (for my newbie ears, the onboard sound is currently fine for me with my Superlux HD681 EVO), and I want to fix my mic issue. I don't mind spending 0-100$ to improve my setup. I plan on eventually moving to better headphones as well.
This is 100% desktop use, USB ports are not an issue but PCIe internal slots aren't either.
My uses are: light gaming, music (google music mostly, some mp3, some lossless flacs)

So I saw a bunch of devices that could work and I am a bit lost:
- cheapo 3.5mm to USB adapters that would bypass the onboard card
- cheap USB sound cards like sound blaster play or xonar U3
- Higher end USB sound cards like U5, Sound blaster omni
- Internal cards like Xonar DGX, Sound blaster Z

Now when searching for recommendations I often see the "never buy a sound card, get a DAC/AMP", but this is a world I know nothing about. Would that be an option for me?
I looked at a couple of entry-level USB dacs that are often recommended (Fiio, etc) but they usually don't have a mic-in port and this is the main reason why I am looking for a replacement so I don't know.

What would you guys do?
THANKS!

 

[PurpleAngel]

DAC/amps do not come with line-input (microphone) jacks, so the DAC/amp will not solve your issue.
But usually when money is not an object, people go with an external DAC/amp, over a sound card.

Anyway, I'm an Asus Xonar fan, but I would try and talk you into getting the SB-Z (Sound Blaster Z) sound card (used, $70).
(Disable the motherboard's on-board audio, in the BIOS, before installing an internal sound card).
The SB-Z is decent for driving headphones up to 250-Ohm headphones (even somewhat half-way decent for 600-Ohm headphones).

 

[onevstheworld]

Actually there are 2 DAC/amps that also include a mic-in (technically it's called an ADC):
Mayflower ARC
Burson Play (it comes in several flavors)

Both are fairly pricy though.

 

[ProtegeManiac]

Quick rundown of issue: microphone is very quiet and often produces hissing/static. Tried every possible setting, updated drivers, tried front and back ports, tried 3 different microphones. Only usable setting is 100% mic volume and 20-30db boost but even then it is hard to hear my voice.
This is on Win10 with ASUS P8Z77-V DX mobo (Realtek ALC898). Maybe onboard chip has issues?
I spent quite a bit of time trying to figure this out now and thought that maybe simply moving to a dedicated device would bypass the issue.

Chances are the mic preamp of that motherboard is too weak for the mics you're using. It's not unlikely with (older) non-Gaming Series motherboards. I had a similar issue with an MSI Z77 and my cousin had the same problem with an Asus PZ67.

- cheapo 3.5mm to USB adapters that would bypass the onboard card

You could try those given they're cheap but as low as the risk is for the cost, the probability that it might have the same issues might be high enough that what this option will likely do is just take a bite out of what you could spend to actually address the issue.

- cheap USB sound cards like sound blaster play or xonar U3

I'm using the U3 right now with a Superlux HD330 on my gaming rig. Works fine, although the mic preamp on some internal cards like the SBZ or Soar are a little bit louder and clearer.

H- igher end USB sound cards like U5, Sound blaster omni
- Internal cards like Xonar DGX, Sound blaster Z

The internal cards are a better value, more so when your current headphone won't have a problem with the high output impedance on those anyway.

Now when searching for recommendations I often see the "never buy a sound card, get a DAC/AMP", but this is a world I know nothing about. Would that be an option for me?
I looked at a couple of entry-level USB dacs that are often recommended (Fiio, etc) but they usually don't have a mic-in port and this is the main reason why I am looking for a replacement so I don't know.

DAC-HPamps do not have two things that soundcards (internal and external) do. First is the DSP, which is primarily for surround sound simulation (including spatialization effects); all other features like EQ can be had from other software. These however work with both movies and games, unlike for example how VLC has Dolby Headphone only for movies while I can't get Razer Surround to work in movies. The other thing they don't have is a mic preamp circuit - as in they don't even have any mic input - so basically these are not going to help with your problem in any way.

 

[stuk0v]

@PurpleAngel amazon.ca currently has the Z at 99$ shipped... very tempting. Have you used the Z?

@onevstheworld the ARC looks pretty damn cool...it looks like they are currently talking with amazon.ca to make their products available to us canucks... I will follow that.. from what I saw in the US it should be in the 200-300$ range?

@ProtegeManiac thanks for the detailed feedbak man... I am leaning towards a Z, but the Mayflower ARC looks pretty cool if it is available here some day. Not the same price range though. Would that offer any improvement over the Z for my uses?

 

[PurpleAngel]

@PurpleAngel amazon.ca currently has the Z at 99$ shipped... very tempting. Have you used the Z?

@ProtegeManiac thanks for the detailed feedbak man... I am leaning towards a Z, but the Mayflower ARC looks pretty cool if it is available here some day. Not the same price range though. Would that offer any improvement over the Z for my uses?

I bought a SB-Z just to test it out, to see how well it works driving my headphones, the SB-Z can get 250-Ohm headphones fairly loud.
You might also find a good deal on a used Asus Strix sound card.

The Mayflower ARC looks nice, but to me it's overkill for use with the $50 Superlux HD681 EVO.

 

[stuk0v]

Good idea to check the used market.
What do you think about Z VS Strix Soar?
Thanks!

 

[PurpleAngel]

Good idea to check the used market.
What do you think about Z VS Strix Soar?
Thanks!

I have a personal biased for Asus cards, but have never used the newer Strix series.
I have the Asus Xonar DG, DGX, DS, DX, STX cards (but now using a $330 Audio-GD NFB-11.28 DAC/amp)
Maybe just buy whichever (used) sound card (SB-Z or Strix) has the lowest price.

 

[stuk0v]

Thanks guys!

 

[ProtegeManiac]

[USER=137442]@ProtegeManiac thanks for the detailed feedbak man... I am leaning towards a Z, but the Mayflower ARC looks pretty cool if it is available here some day. Not the same price range though. Would that offer any improvement over the Z for my uses?[/USER]

The Arc has a better headphone amplifier and likely mic preamp, but not necessarily something that would make a lot f difference on the Superlux. While some headphones might have comparable sensitivity, if you have one of the 150ohm Superlux, that's one less problem vs having a similarly 93dB/1mW ensitivity but 62ohm AKG for example as it won't have a problem with he output impedance of soundcards.

I can't see if the Arc's DSP includes virtual surround either, so if your primary use for this is gaming, I'd much rather just get the SBZ or Strix Soar and choose what headphones they can drive with no problems. That includes your Superlux already, so if anything, that won't be a problem until you upgrade later. If you really need more power you can always get a DAC-HPamp to work with the soundcard's DSP. Just make sure to double check that its DSP functions work via optical output before buying one, and then later on, if you do get a DAC-HPamp to help ot, make sure it has an optical input.

 

[onevstheworld]

Massdrop has the Soundblaster ZX for $99 right now.

Edit: You could also consider SB's newer AE-5. It's only slightly more expensive than a Z (here in Oz), and it has a 1 ohm output impedance so should pair better with a wider range of HPs and IEMs.

 

[stuk0v]

Thanks for all the suggestions guys.
I am currently looking for the best value deal and will pull the trigger soon...
Aiming for a SBZ mainly unless I see a good deal on a SOAR. The AE-5 is cool but a tad too expansive here in Canada (Almost double the price of SBZ)

I possibly found a good deal for a used (almost new) Xonar U7 USB... would that be worth it? or should I keep my money for SBZ. (used U7 is close to 50% of the price of a new SBZ)

 

[PurpleAngel]

Thanks for all the suggestions guys.
I am currently looking for the best value deal and will pull the trigger soon...
Aiming for a SBZ mainly unless I see a good deal on a SOAR. The AE-5 is cool but a tad too expansive here in Canada (Almost double the price of SBZ)

I possibly found a good deal for a used (almost new) Xonar U7 USB... would that be worth it? or should I keep my money for SBZ. (used U7 is close to 50% of the price of a new SBZ)

For use with $50 headphones (HD681 EVO), the Xonar U7 is more then enough.

 

[stuk0v]

For use with $50 headphones (HD681 EVO), the Xonar U7 is more then enough.

Would SBZ be more "future-proof" if I plan on upgrading headphones in the near future, though?

 

[PurpleAngel]

Would SBZ be more "future-proof" if I plan on upgrading headphones in the near future, though?

The Xonar U7's head amp is for headphones up to around 150-Ohms.
If you were looking at getting higher impedance (Ohm) headphones, like 100 to 300-Ohms, then the SB-Z starts to look better.