stratocaster
500+ Head-Fier
- Joined
- Feb 10, 2011
- Posts
- 506
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- 112
Got fed up with the limited and unnerving modding situation of my orthos. Removing the pads, loosening the screws, opening up the cups, applying some padding and then putting the assembly together again. Just to find out that the result does not meet your expectations. Thereby ruining your cups and pads.
As a result I did some thinking and finally I came up with a design/modding strategy that makes it really easy and quick to apply changes.
In the attached pictures you can see that I removeg the drivers (T50RP and T20V2) from the plastic baffles and use wood baffles instead. Then I use custom made wood enclosures to give the drivers a bigger acoustic chamber and myself the opportunity to apply damping material easily and comfortably.
The thing that really makes the modding easy is the "Strato lid system". The wood lid is a little smaller in diameter than the opening. Then I glue a felt disk (or closed-cell foam if you prefer to seal the chamber and avoid venting) at the back of the lid. The felt is a little larger than the wood disk. When you press the lid into the cup, the felt fills the ring between lid and shell and holds the lid in place. If you want to change the damping, you just have to get the lid out again (works very nicely and easily) and you are there, right at the back of the driver, to apply the changes.
That way you can try lots of damping versions without removing the pads, loosening the screws ....
The phones you see in the pictures are rosewood T50RPs and Gaboon Ebony T20v2s. As pads I use Brainwavz HM5 pads.
As a result I did some thinking and finally I came up with a design/modding strategy that makes it really easy and quick to apply changes.
In the attached pictures you can see that I removeg the drivers (T50RP and T20V2) from the plastic baffles and use wood baffles instead. Then I use custom made wood enclosures to give the drivers a bigger acoustic chamber and myself the opportunity to apply damping material easily and comfortably.
The thing that really makes the modding easy is the "Strato lid system". The wood lid is a little smaller in diameter than the opening. Then I glue a felt disk (or closed-cell foam if you prefer to seal the chamber and avoid venting) at the back of the lid. The felt is a little larger than the wood disk. When you press the lid into the cup, the felt fills the ring between lid and shell and holds the lid in place. If you want to change the damping, you just have to get the lid out again (works very nicely and easily) and you are there, right at the back of the driver, to apply the changes.
That way you can try lots of damping versions without removing the pads, loosening the screws ....
The phones you see in the pictures are rosewood T50RPs and Gaboon Ebony T20v2s. As pads I use Brainwavz HM5 pads.
