[athenaesword]

hey guys,

I just got my hands on a piece of Oritek OMZ 2.0. This unit only has Coax in and RCA out. I've tried 3 different sources, and each time the unit fails to work. I've isolated the problem to the unit because I've swapped source/amp multiple times.

I dont think it's a problem with the PSU, because the unit powers on (small red LED inside the casing flashing), and it gets warm. however, no sound comes out.

anyone care to help suggest what may be the problem? I'd take pictures, but my iphone3g doesn't take good enough pictures to shower the connections properly.

I've got no experience with DIY so those of you who're kind enough to help are going to have to be patient. brought in from overseas it's been such a disappointment.

pic's here

the 2 red LEDs seem to alternate flashing. one turns on and flashes, then the other one turns on and flashes. i'm talking about the red LED on the red PCB and the one on the green PCB next to the black thing.

 

[Ori]

Quote:

Originally Posted by athenaesword /img/forum/go_quote.gif brought in from overseas it's been such a disappointment.

First check if it's compatible with your AC voltage.
Looking at your pic, the plug-in board has parts which I remove. Ask the seller what's the history of this unit.

 

[athenaesword]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ori /img/forum/go_quote.gif First check if it's compatible with your AC voltage. Looking at your pic, the plug-in board has parts which I remove. Ask the seller what's the history of this unit.

hi ori, glad you're here!

yes it's compatible with my voltage. we use 220v here in Singapore.

what dya mean the history of the unit? According to him, it's the 2.0 version, and he replaced the coax out to gold ones. he said they worked before he passed it to my friend to carry back on his flight though, so i'm guessing maybe something went wrong during transportation. but i'm not sure where to start.

 

[Ori]

Quote:

Originally Posted by athenaesword /img/forum/go_quote.gif what dya mean the history of the unit? According to him, it's the 2.0 version, and he replaced the coax out to gold ones.

I said to ask about the history of the unit, since the plug-in board looks unlike one I released.
Part of that history is the change of a coax connector. One of the problem spots is the area right under the connector. Make sure it does not touch the ground on the board. If it does then put some electrical tape under it.

 

[athenaesword]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ori /img/forum/go_quote.gif I said to ask about the history of the unit, since the plug-in board looks unlike one I released. Part of that history is the change of a coax connector. One of the problem spots is the area right under the connector. Make sure it does not touch the ground on the board. If it does then put some electrical tape under it.

make sure what does not touch the ground on the board?

I've checked, the copper coming out of the black cable isn't touching the coax connector.

 

[Ori]

Quote:

Originally Posted by athenaesword /img/forum/go_quote.gif make sure what does not touch the ground on the board? I've checked, the copper coming out of the black cable isn't touching the coax connector.

Not the wire. Check the nut clamping the jack to the panel. It might be touching the board underneath it.
You can use a multimeter to check that as well, but it's not hard to see if there is any clearance or not.

 

[athenaesword]

i don't think the coax one is touching, but the bottom RCA out looks like it might be touching. how would i put electrical tape under it though? or would tightening/loosening the nut so the flatter edge doesn't touch work?

it was working before transported though. is it possible for the nut to twist and touch the board just from transportation?

 

[Ori]

Quote:

Originally Posted by athenaesword /img/forum/go_quote.gif i don't think the coax one is touching, but the bottom RCA out looks like it might be touching. how would i put electrical tape under it though? or would tightening/loosening the nut so the flatter edge doesn't touch work? it was working before transported though. is it possible for the nut to twist and touch the board just from transportation?

When a unit is not working at all then I can only guess, without checking it in person.
If you have a multimeter then it's time to put it to good use and check for a short between coax input and board ground.
Here is another option. You should check if your transport has a DC offset on the s/pdif line. The input transformer in the D2 would not be too happy with DC...
Beyond this level of tests you would need a technician that's somewhat familiar with the unit. It may have been damaged in shipping or it may have not been working prior to shipping. From the picture I can see parts which I did not ship, so your guess is as good as mine.
Sorry that you ended up with damaged goods. You may want to inquire who in your area is working on Zhaolu units.