[Daveze]

Its a similar question to others gone by but I'm wondering if I can get some more experienced opinions on a issue that I've had rolling around for a while. I have a nearly infinite number of options available but there's three that stand-out to me:

1) Purchase a Weller/Hakko/Goot adjustable station;
2) Purchase the 13W Goot iron; and
3) Use the money to start a new amp.

The issue really arose while building the y1, where I became quite frustrated my current soldering pencil (46W Goot). I ended up just using the normal tip for the SMT work because the fine tip I had hoped to use didn't stay properly tinned (I ran into similar trouble with the mini3, read up more tips, bought a new tip and ended up in the same pickle). I've heard a few times that having temperature control will produce results that are a significant step up compared to my current setup (SMT and through-hole). The other thought I had is that 46W through the fine tip (and my slack habits) is just too much and smaller iron (like the 13W Goot) might just do the trick for the fiddly SMT work.

I'm mostly happy with the Goot that I have at the moment: its comfortable and simple, so I'd be happy enough to divert the money into a new project. For an indication of my ability/experience I've built the following: several mini3 (3), miniMAX (2), milletMAX (1), Jaycar/SCHA (1), y1 (2) and half a Bijou. I'm not really after brand recommendations, more advice regarding my general approach to soldering.

Cheers,
Josh

 

[taso89]

Even my 25W Weller (which I just got, and has been serving me very well so far) oxidizes very quickly and if I don't tin it often enough it will get oxidized to a point where the solder won't even get on the tip. At that point I had to scrape some of the oxides/grime off so that I can tin the tip again.

You're right, 46W seems like a lot for PCB work, when I was shopping around most sources said to use 15-30W for electronics and after practicing soldering some components I gotta say that sounds about right. And again, I'm pretty wet behind the ears still but 25W has been doing well for me so far.

IMO if you're only going to be using the iron for audio DIY, get yourself something with less wattage. The Weller 25W kit on amazon includes 3 different tips, I've been using the pencil tip and it's done a fine job. I think it's like $25 which is not that bad.

 

[Forte]

I have both the 13W and 46W Goot irons and have the same problem with the 13W iron and the fine(0.2mm) tip, the very end of the tip will just not tin for some reason so it's not just you.

Never tried the fine tip in the 46W iron and after reading your problems I won't bother. I had thought that 13W couldn't heat up the tip fast enough to to make up for heat loss from such a fine tip but if 46W won't work either maybe there is some other problem with the fine tip.

Like you I ended up using the 46W iron and the standard tip and managed to solder up two bantam DACs without to many problems.


I would go with option 3 and build a new amp! You can't have to many.

 

[digger945]

I would get the higher watt iron as some of the larger ground terminations on pcb's can be a booger to get hot.
If your concerned about heat with something sensitive then just don't dwell on the joint as long.
I've seen some of the adjustable Weller mini-stations for something like 50-60 dollars. It would pay to shop around some.

 

[Tomo]

Hey,

Cheap micro irons have low power and they don't work. Lower power means low temperature recovery. Which means tip temperature drops hard as you solder. Makes bad weld because solder stop flowing while you are soldering.

Going higher power solves this problem, but you gotta know your tip temperature is likely to be higher if it has no temperature control. You are gonna have to work fast. (High temp doesn't directly mean chip-death. It means you have less time to work on it.)

I got lucky. A professor left me a WTCP soldering station (60W! 700F). Boy, I totally recommend this stuff. You can do SMT work because it is temp controlled, and you can do thick speaker wire or case lug work without swapping iron because it is powerful. Jus swap out tips.

But you can get something similar for 50 bucks now, you lucky bast@rds. I just bought 70W temperature controlled soldering PEN(!).

T

 

[Daveze]

If it changes things, its not (IMO) a cheap iron: about $60AU for the 13W. That being said, I'm reading a general lack of support for the smaller iron. If it counts for anything, the iron I have mentions being 'set' at 320 deg C, so there is some temp control. This is also true for the 13W but is at 450 deg C.

I'm leaning towards option 3 as a substitute for new iron GAS. What to build...

 

[DKJones96]

You'll probably laugh, but that cheap 25w pencil iron from Wal-Mart is great. The lead-free solder it comes with is garbage but I've had mine for a little over a year now and it's been awesome even after accententally leaving it plugged in for a week while I went on a trip(oops). It comes with 3 tips but I only use the standard tip.

I use it for everything from P2P to smd work. Great all around iron and tips are easy to find at most stores that carry pencil irons.

 

[atbglenn]

My soldering equipment
Weller WESD51 Digital Soldering Station with several various sized tips Highly Recommended!! (Replaced my 30 year old Weller Soldering Station)
Weller W100P 100 watt temperature controlled iron (Not for electronic use!)
Weller WM120 12 watt iron
4 1lb rolls of Kester SN63 Solder .031 and .062 diameters
Hakko 82-10 desoldering tool
Several rolls of solder wick various sizes

 

[Beefy]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Daveze /img/forum/go_quote.gif The issue really arose while building the y1, where I became quite frustrated my current soldering pencil (46W Goot)......

Hey mate

FWIW, I used the Dick Smith T2200 for all of my projects, from the biggest ground plane connections on my S11 power supply, right down to the PCM2707 of the y1. I replaced the tip once; they are only a few dollars.

For the money, I think it is a great piece of kit. Whether it is better than what you have now...... no idea

 

[srserl]

When I solder, I keep the tip clean by dipping it in gel flux (from radio shack) and cleaning it with one of the brass-scrubber tip cleaners:
Tip Cleaner

Every 4-10 joints, I quickly dip the tip in the flux and poke it into the tip cleaner a few times. I am still using the same tips I started with more than a year ago.

 

[nullstring]

I use a knock off hakko 936
SOLDER STATION TEMPERATURE CONTROLLED-MPJA, Inc.

Seems to work pretty well.

 

[Beefy]

This thread got me looking around at soldering stations......

I can get a second hand Hakko 936 described as new-in-box locally for $100 Canadian. Is this a good deal?

 

[Daveze]

Beefy, thanks for the tip. I've held a fairly solid prejudice against Dick Smith for a while, so I've been dubious of their equipment but if you speak highly of it, I might have to revisit that.

I suppose the relevant question should be: how much do you (the general 'you', not just Beefy) use temperature adjustment? I don't do silver solder (yet?), so do I need the temperature variability, particularly if the iron I have has some temperature control/stabilisation?

 

[qusp]

you can pick up a hakko 936 from computronics in perth for a touch over a hundred buckeroons. cant remember exactly how much, but its a great iron man and you wont regret it after you've made a couple of projects with it. I tend to use temp a bit actually. I do use silver solder in a couple different types. the WBT has a much lower flowing point than cardas, so that in itself is a good enough reason. but doing DIYMODs its good to be able to turn it down a bit to use the thin solder so it doesnt vaporize. so for cable work I pump it up to just over half way (not digital) and work real quick, but for SMD work I turn it down to about a third, so I can be a little more precise and not worry so much about frying dacs or regs YMMV but I havent looked back since getting mine. been toying with the idea of getting one of those auto sensing irons and a decent desoldering station; but good technique is as important as good equipment, so work with what you got till you cant no more I gues. that holds to a point, but the hakko and hakko clones are really a massive improvement.

 

[Beefy]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Daveze /img/forum/go_quote.gif Beefy, thanks for the tip. I've held a fairly solid prejudice against Dick Smith for a while, so I've been dubious of their equipment but if you speak highly of it, I might have to revisit that.

Oh great, you've jinxed it. Yours will be crap now, and I'll look bad

Quote:

I suppose the relevant question should be: how much do you (the general 'you', not just Beefy) use temperature adjustment? I don't do silver solder (yet?), so do I need the temperature variability, particularly if the iron I have has some temperature control/stabilisation?

Quite a bit - but big coarse changes rather than sensible small adjustments. I turn the temp up about 20-30 celsius to solder anything insensitive connected to big ground planes, and push it down again for everything else.

Quote:

Originally Posted by qusp /img/forum/go_quote.gif you can pick up a hakko 936 from computronics in perth for a touch over a hundred buckeroons. cant remember exactly how much, but its a great iron

$137.50 ex GST according to the website, and I assume plus shipping. Better than I expected, but still pricey.