[DaveBSC]

Quote:

Sound advice to avoid OCZ, but are the latest Sandforce also a problem?  They seem to claim pretty high MTBF and warranty.  It is a shame that platter hard drives have gone to cr4p - they don't seem to last more than a couple of years max.
 
Not quite better than CP-850 in terms of ripple from Jonnyguru test, but better voltage regulation.  Seasonic is more expensive, but more functional with fully modular cables and normal form factor.  p183 + CP-850 probably cost $260 altogether, so Seasonic could end up around the same with a cheaper case.  Seasonic do look well built though.
 
I'm not sure how these measure against picoPSU (for dedicated music server) - how did it compare when you were researching your build?
 
What are your results with the SoTM - in my setup I could not get it to sound as good as the onbaoard USB - only thing I can think of is IRQ is shared with all other PCI divices and I'm not sure this can be fixed...  Also shares a bus with lan adapter.  Will see how it turns out when I build a dedicated music server.
 

From what I've seen, Sandforce simply doesn't have anything like the reliability record of Intel. Crucial's drives are now on gen 2, and also seem to be holding up extremely well. Samsung also has a good track record for reliability, but not for fast performance. Their latest gen drives are supposed to change that, but I haven't seen enough in the field yet to confirm whether the reliability is still there.
 
The CP-850 does measure well for the most part (not so great on 3.3V) but I don't like that it works in only a few Antec cases, that it uses a multi-rail approach for 12V, and some of the parts choices. It also can't match Seasonic's 80 Plus Gold rating for efficiency.
 
I looked into the PicoPSUs, but according to JG, most have either terrible voltage regulation, or absolutely horrendous ripple, with a single exception of a particular FSP 19V power brick. Ultimately I just don't see what the upside is, I'm using a Lian Li ATX mid-tower for my build, so there's plenty of room for a regular ATX supply.. The Seasonic's 5V regulation is near flawless, and at the output levels I will be using from it, ripple barely exists. The fan should also never come on, so its silent as well.
 
http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story&reid=207
 
I don't have the SoTM card yet, I'll let you know how well it works for me. My build is going to be as simple as possible. No networking, no video card, no nothing. Just a low voltage Core i3 (for passive cooling) and a hard drive, so hopefully the SoTM won't have any conflicts that could reduce performance. The alternative I can suggest with more full featured computers is the Vaunix Lab Brick USB hub. That's powered with the included AC adapter, but you could go a step further by replacing that with a Hynes linear power supply. Chris from Computer Audiophile reported excellent results from the SoTM card, but his CAPS server is like my build, it's not a full use computer.
 

 

[drez]

Thanks for the link on the pico - I can't really see the advantage either.
 
Cp form factor is a bit of a pain, but imo p183 is decent value pared with it.
 
I might see how you and marcin from JPlay go with teh SoTM card before i chose a motherboard.

 

[Szadzik]

I see you've been busy posting all the recommendations guys. 
 
I have almost finalized my build (in my head and on paper )
 
I Will go for a Zalman HD503 case with an Asus P8Z68 Deluxe Gen3 MoBo that will give me an SPDIF out for the time being.
 
That SoTM website has a lot of interesting stuff, thanks for the link. 
 
The rest is just going to be some standard stuff with a Seasonix X850 PSU, quiet cooling fans and I will probably buy extra sound proofing materials and do that bit at home.

 

[DaveBSC]

Quote:

The rest is just going to be some standard stuff with a Seasonix X850 PSU, quiet cooling fans and I will probably buy extra sound proofing materials and do that bit at home.

For fans, I highly recommend Noiseblocker Multi-frames. There are several good choices for quiet fans, but the Multi-frames (and to a little bit lesser extent the Black Silents) are among the very best. A solid, more affordable choice is the Thermalright X-silent series. For sound proofing, get Acoustipack.
 

 

[Szadzik]

Quote:

For fans, I highly recommend Noiseblocker Multi-frames. There are several good choices for quiet fans, but the Multi-frames (and to a little bit lesser extent the Black Silents) are among the very best. A solid, more affordable choice is the Thermalright X-silent series. For sound proofing, get Acoustipack.

Thanks again Dave. I really appreciate the advice as I am not very up to date with all these and would just choose something on the basis of reviews etc.
 

 

[DaveBSC]

Quote:

Thanks again Dave. I really appreciate the advice as I am not very up to date with all these and would just choose something on the basis of reviews etc.

Sure. For fans you can do pretty well with Nexus, Noctua, some of the Scythe models, etc. but for sound proofing you really want to go with Acoustipack. The other offerings on the market really do nothing more than add weight to the case.
 

 

[Szadzik]

 
Quote:

Sure. For fans you can do pretty well with Nexus, Noctua, some of the Scythe models, etc. but for sound proofing you really want to go with Acoustipack. The other offerings on the market really do nothing more than add weight to the case.

 
Thanks, will have a look around and see if I can get some acoustipack.

 

[drez]

Quote:

Sure. For fans you can do pretty well with Nexus, Noctua, some of the Scythe models, etc. but for sound proofing you really want to go with Acoustipack. The other offerings on the market really do nothing more than add weight to the case.
 

Hehe yeah acoustipack is a good choice if you are using noisy components inside.  Cases with "front doors" do wonders for reducing fan noise also.  Can't fix everything with damping though - I have dampened every square inch of my case (literally) and in the end still hear the exhaust fans which are the quietest models I can use without GPU overheating.
 
I think from memory I am using 3x 60CFM Enermax silence for intake, 2x same for exhaust, as this is about as silent as possible without overheating with my case.  IMO anything over 60CFM is wasted and anything under 40CFM is a little low, but this will depend on specific case and cooling requirements.

 

[DaveBSC]

Quote:

I think from memory I am using 3x 60CFM Enermax silence for intake, 2x same for exhaust, as this is about as silent as possible without overheating with my case.  IMO anything over 60CFM is wasted and anything under 40CFM is a little low, but this will depend on specific case and cooling requirements.

This is why things like static pressure, impeller noise, and CFM per dB are so important. A fan with a mediocre motor design that uses ball bearings will be considerably louder than a fan with a fluid bearing for example. Then there's undervolting to consider. Very few fans are quiet at a full 12V, including supposedly quiet fans like the Noctuas. They make a racket at full speed. Even my 900 RPM Noiseblocker Black Silent PL-1 fans are audible at 12V. I run them at about 9V which is still enough airflow for stability, and the computer is completely inaudible from my desk chair.
 

 

[Szadzik]

Thanks everyone for all the help. I got the new PC waiting for me at home and I will be setting it up in just a week. 
 
I also have a Metrum Acoustics Octave DAC waiting for me there and thus I still am missing one thing for my setup to be complete - connection between the PC and the DAC.
 
Since I have spent 2500 GBP ($4000) on the PC and DAC I am trying to get the link between the PC and DAC as cheap as possible.
 
At the moment, I only have a built-in audio card with SPDIF out on the PC and can use that for the time being, but it is not the best solution and I want something better.
 
My question would be:
 
Are there any good PCI audio cards with SPDIF out or should I instead look at something like Musiland Monitor 01 USD and use that?
 
Or instead, I should just wait until I decide I can spend more money and buy AP2 or something like that?

 

[DaveBSC]

Quote:

Thanks everyone for all the help. I got the new PC waiting for me at home and I will be setting it up in just a week. 
 
I also have a Metrum Acoustics Octave DAC waiting for me there and thus I still am missing one thing for my setup to be complete - connection between the PC and the DAC.
 
Since I have spent 2500 GBP ($4000) on the PC and DAC I am trying to get the link between the PC and DAC as cheap as possible.
 
At the moment, I only have a built-in audio card with SPDIF out on the PC and can use that for the time being, but it is not the best solution and I want something better.
 
My question would be:
 
Are there any good PCI audio cards with SPDIF out or should I instead look at something like Musiland Monitor 01 USD and use that?
 
Or instead, I should just wait until I decide I can spend more money and buy AP2 or something like that?

I wouldn't waste you're time with a sound card. The Musical Fidelity V-Link II is available for under $200. I'd start with that, and then save up for an Off-ramp.
 

 

[Szadzik]

Quote:

I wouldn't waste you're time with a sound card. The Musical Fidelity V-Link II is available for under $200. I'd start with that, and then save up for an Off-ramp.
 

V-Link II much beter than bulk mode on 01 USD?
 

 

[Wage]

$4000 on the PC?

Can you list what you bought, out of curiousity? That better be some high end **** for that price.
 
EDIT: Ack, sorry, I forgot you got it built by someone else. I'm used to building my own, so their labor probably cost you a bit on its own.
 
If you were BUILDING YOUR OWN, $4000 should've been a watercooled, multi-SSD-RAID-0'd, multi-GPU-having, makes-you-breakfast-lunch-and-dinner-naked type of PC. Or if you were an Apple fan it would have bought you a shiny Macbook capable of 1/2 that 

 

[Szadzik]

 
Quote:

$4000 on the PC?

Can you list what you bought, out of curiousity? That better be some high end **** for that price.
 
EDIT: Ack, sorry, I forgot you got it built by someone else. I'm used to building my own, so their labor probably cost you a bit on its own.
 
If you were BUILDING YOUR OWN, $4000 should've been a watercooled, multi-SSD-RAID-0'd, multi-GPU-having, makes-you-breakfast-lunch-and-dinner-naked type of PC. Or if you were an Apple fan it would have bought you a shiny Macbook capable of 1/2 that 

4k on PC AND DAC. DAC was $1200. Also remember, that I live in the UK where prices are 30% higher than in the US.
 

 

[Wage]

Ahhh, haha, I completely missed that. Still curious to see what $2800 buys in the UK though. Here in the US I would hope you got at least a 240GB SATA3 SSD in there for your OS drive.