New Millett Hybrid MiniMAX (what happened to this thread?)
Jan 23, 2009 at 1:02 AM Post #901 of 1,948
My Vreg has always been hotter than that...... the wallwarts I buy put out over 25VAC loaded, and up to 34VDC pre-regulator which is a fair bit of heat loss on Vreg. That is why I bumped my regulated voltages to 28VDC.

And yeah, CA2 an CA7 were always the biggest concern for me. I just checked the VitQ specs, and the 96P are apparently good to 125 which is good.
 
Jan 23, 2009 at 7:13 PM Post #902 of 1,948
AHHH! I can't decide. About to order my case from Lansing and I don't know if I want Silver or Black.

If I went with silver, I could do the clear lexan 1/16" top which is easily sourced. While the black (i think) would look better with a smoked lexan top, but 1/16" thick smoked lexan/acrylic seems to be quite hard to find. The black clase with a perfectly clear top might look a little odd.
 
Jan 23, 2009 at 7:23 PM Post #903 of 1,948
Quote:

Originally Posted by aphexii /img/forum/go_quote.gif
AHHH! I can't decide. About to order my case from Lansing and I don't know if I want Silver or Black.

If I went with silver, I could do the clear lexan 1/16" top which is easily sourced. While the black (i think) would look better with a smoked lexan top, but 1/16" thick smoked lexan/acrylic seems to be quite hard to find. The black clase with a perfectly clear top might look a little odd.



Amb does all of his amps in black with a clear top. I'm not so sure it looks bad.
wink.gif


Here's his revMH Millett Hybrid:
dsc01035.jpg
 
Jan 25, 2009 at 2:11 AM Post #905 of 1,948
I finally came up with a standard Center Standoff Kit for the MiniMAX Beezar/Lansing custom-machined cases:

They consist of two metric M3x0.5 screws - one 5mm long and one 4mm long, a 4mm aluminum hex standoff with the same threads, and washers. I'm suggesting that a lock washer and flat washer be used with the longer screw on top of the PCB. This is the screw that will be inaccessible when the case is buttoned up, so hopefully the lock washer will keep it locked. The 4mm long screw will then be used with a single flat washer on the bottom of the case.

These are available on Beezar now, but will be supplied with all Beezar/Lansing cases in the future (along with the rubber feet and case screws).
 
Jan 25, 2009 at 4:18 AM Post #908 of 1,948
Quote:

This is also my first DIY amp so I was just wondering what type of Solder do you think works best for building an amp?


All the questions you have have probably been answered (many times).
As far as I know, machined cases are not available at the moment. But you're best checking with Tomb on that one.

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f6/iro...oolkit-404999/
 
Jan 25, 2009 at 7:47 AM Post #909 of 1,948
Quote:

Originally Posted by tomb /img/forum/go_quote.gif
I finally came up with a standard Center Standoff Kit for the MiniMAX Beezar/Lansing custom-machined cases:

They consist of two metric M3x0.5 screws - one 5mm long and one 4mm long, a 4mm aluminum hex standoff with the same threads, and washers. I'm suggesting that a lock washer and flat washer be used with the longer screw on top of the PCB. This is the screw that will be inaccessible when the case is buttoned up, so hopefully the lock washer will keep it locked. The 4mm long screw will then be used with a single flat washer on the bottom of the case.

These are available on Beezar now, but will be supplied with all Beezar/Lansing cases in the future (along with the rubber feet and case screws).



Sweet, Thanks!
 
Jan 25, 2009 at 8:46 PM Post #910 of 1,948
Quote:

Originally Posted by ruZZ.il /img/forum/go_quote.gif
wow. nice!
biggrin.gif
snap some shots of the inside when you crack it open next time if you can.. would like to see how it all squeezed in.



Quote:

Originally Posted by Beefy /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Looks great!
smily_headphones1.gif


But I too would love to see how you shoe-horned that all in without blocking any ventilation......
wink.gif



I removed the front panel to work on it a bit. Here's a couple pictures, don't know if they will tell you much.
Putting the front panel back on is a bit of a struggle, hopefully I don't have to do that too often. The back panel is a piece of cake.
Can't say about the ventilation, maybe I better just not to worry about it
wink.gif
...for too much at least
confused_face(1).gif



And one without the case.

Quote:

Originally Posted by linuxworks /img/forum/go_quote.gif
scy, beautiful work, there!

you have given me some ideas....
wink.gif


also, how much did FPE charge for your front panel?



Thanks, glad to hear that.
The front panel was about 40€ (including the 19% tax). A bit pricey perhaps, but then again not having the ability to create such thing myself, it's not too bad.
+the quality is great and the production time short.
Quote:

Originally Posted by WilCox /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Fantastic workmanship! What a great looking amp! Did FPE do the rear panel as well?


Yes, it's from pfe. It's made from thinner material and has no color fill-ins and such, so the cost is about the half of the front panel.
 
Jan 26, 2009 at 6:09 AM Post #912 of 1,948
Hi All,

I noticed CA7 recommeded is alsways 35V but 1000uf is ranging from 16-25V depending on the brands selected.

CA2: Nichicon Muse ES, 1000uf 16V, Black Gate NX 1000uf 25V
CA7: Nichicon Muse ES, 470uf 35V, Black Gate NX 680uf 35V

I found the following caps in the local store :
1. nichicon fine gold 1000uf 25V and 470uf 25V
2. nichicon muse fx 1000uf 25V and Silmic 470uf 35V

Can I used either one of the above combination on CA2 & CA7? Or if I need to split them to get the better results, please help.

appreciate your advice please.
 
Jan 26, 2009 at 6:21 AM Post #913 of 1,948
Quote:

Originally Posted by adn6244 /img/forum/go_quote.gif
1. nichicon fine gold 1000uf 25V and 470uf 25V
2. nichicon muse fx 1000uf 25V and Silmic 470uf 35V

Can I used either one of the above combination on CA2 & CA7?



For CA7, 25V is probably too low rated. I believe that the 35V Silmic are too tall for the default case. Not sure about the options for CA2.

But if you are having trouble finding caps, why not just get Muse ES from Beezar?
 
Jan 26, 2009 at 7:39 AM Post #914 of 1,948
thanks beefy. i only need CA2 & CA7 components and ordering only these 2 parts will be expensive in terms of shipping. But credit should go to beezar...the way tomb packaged the components for shippinng is amazing!!

can you elaborate why rating is low but the recommended blackgate for CA2 is also 25V. don't get me wrong, I am still confused how to calculate the voltage range in the circuit design.

the silmic i found is within the 1" height so there is no problem in terms of physical fit.
 
Jan 26, 2009 at 7:55 AM Post #915 of 1,948
Quote:

Originally Posted by adn6244 /img/forum/go_quote.gif
can you elaborate why rating is low but the recommended blackgate for CA2 is also 25V. don't get me wrong, I am still confused how to calculate the voltage range in the circuit design.


Alright, lets just go back to square one, and confirm exactly what the minimum specs are that we need for both positions, from the official BOM.
CA2: 1000µF, 16V
CA7: 470µF, 35V

So 25V BlackGates are fine at CA2, but not CA7. From your selections:
Nichicon Fine Gold 1000µF 25V are OK for CA2, but not CA7.
Nichicon Fine Gold 470µF 25V are no good for either position.
Nichicon Muse FX 1000µF 25V are OK for CA2, but not CA7. The FX have been replaced by 'FW' series, and the Fine Gold are apparently better anyway, so avoid these.

Quote:

the silmic i found is within the 1" height so there is no problem in terms of physical fit.


Right you are. My mistake. These would probably be good for CA7.
 

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