[Gregss]

Hello,
 
Have the SA-8004 and am pretty well pleased with it.  Headphone output was a little lacking though (overly smooth or sweat) in my opinion.  Did the following mods to the audio board and believe got it quite a bit better (more accurate) IMHO.
 
Replaced the (+/-) supply caps with Panasonic FC 460uf / 35volt caps to try to make sure the supply wasn't limiting things especially when using lower impedance headphones. 
 
Replaced the four Silmac (spelling?) silk caps in the output of the headphone amp feeding the headphone jack.  Silmac spec sheet on these caps says in the english version that these caps smooth things out.  Only way I can think of these smoothing things out is to add in even order harmonics.  Spec sheet proudly states 3d order harmonics are way down, but completely says nothing about even order ones...  
 
Replaced them with Panasonic SU (bipolar) 220uf / 35volt caps.  Sound seemed to much more what was on the CD and not smoothed over anymore.  These caps are in series with the headphones, so carrying some current and do seem to make a distinct change. 
 
Also, the output has two 100 ohm resistors in series with the outputs to the HP jack.  Replaced these two resistors with 10 ohm 1/8 watt ones.  These two's job is to prevent problems if the jack or the headphones have a short.  But - really decreases the damping factor for the headphones.  10 ohms isn't a great output impedance, but still much better. 
 
Anyway, I really like the change this work made.  See what you think. 
 
By the way, be very careful with the ribbon cables in these units.  Marantz USA tech support tells me that Marantz Japan will not even give them a part number for these ribbon cables, much less supply them if you should bend them any. 
 
Regards,
Greg 

 

[estreeter]

For anyone who is even vaguely interested - and these days I dont think it's many on HF - I'll be posting an extensive blow-by-blow comparo between my Oppo BDP-105D and my new silver fox Marantz at some stage over the next 5-8 weeks - I just need to get the whole new toy joy/expectation bias sorted. I'm afraid we can only have it in one color here - silver - and both the Oppo and my PM6005 are black, but I'll struggle on regardless.
 

 
If you happen to stumble upon any negative impressions of the SA-14S1's musicality from Roy Harris (Audiophilia), ask yourself this - when was the last time you heard a Marantz component that wasn't musically engaging ? That said, it's a valuable datapoint in the sea of impressions and I'll include a link to Roy's thoughts in my comparison. Suffice it to say that anyone who reviews gear based on a set of 'audiophile approved' test tracks is at the opposite end of the spectrum from my good self - I hereby sentence Roy to a week watching Deathstars vids whilst drinking Jolt Cola  
 

 

[zilch0md]

Haha! Good one!

 

[verde57]

  Also, the output has two 100 ohm resistors in series with the outputs to the HP jack.  Replaced these two resistors with 10 ohm 1/8 watt ones.  These two's job is to prevent problems if the jack or the headphones have a short.  But - really decreases the damping factor for the headphones.  10 ohms isn't a great output impedance, but still much better. 

Doesn't this mod get very high volume level to headphones?

 

[Gregss]

Hello,
 
Yes, volume does go up a bit, but not enough to cause problems.   If you want to read up on why a high damping factor is a plus, search the web a bit.  High damping factor means the amp has better control on the bass movement of the speakers or headphones.  
 
As with most numbers in audio, going overboard to get super high damping factor numbers is something that gives diminishing returns. Going from 10 to 20 would likely make a hearable difference.  Going from 100 to 120 is likely not to be.  IMHO
 
I did not short out the 100 ohm resisters so as to keep some current limiting in case a wire shorts.  Also went with a 1/8 watt resister so hopefully if there is a true short, it will overheat, blow and protect the rest of the circuit. 
 
 
Regards,
Greg 

 

[Gregss]

Hello,
 
Have to agree that the headphone output didn't impress.  Got the service manual and looked at the schematics and saw at least part of the reason why.  While it is using Marantz's HDAM circuit to drive the HP output, it is driving it through electrolytic caps in series with the headphones and as well has as a electrolytic dc blocking cap on the input of the HP amps circuit. 
 
Don't know if you have read or are interested in the research done by Cycil Bateman (available on the web).  But a pretty drastic  improvement in less distortion can be done by making these caps Bipolar, larger and with a higher voltage rating. 
 
(  If interested see items 5 & 6 where it talks about bipolar electrolytic caps at -   
    http://www.linearaudio.nl/linearaudio.nl/index.php/my-library/cyril-bateman-s-capacitor-sound-articles  )
 
Anyway, replacing the four 47uf/25volt/polar caps with  220uf/35volt/bipolar caps helped a lot in my opinion.  Much more tonally accurate.  These caps are C401 & C402 (input blocking)  and  C405 & C406  (output DC blocking).
 
 
While I had the board out, went ahead and replaced the power filter caps for the HP circuit as well.  Bumped  C407 & 408 up from 220uf/25volt  to 470uf/25volt -  polar caps for this work fine. 
 
Choose Panasonic SU family caps for the bipolars and FC family caps for the power supplies capacity increase as these have worked well for me in the past and the cost is reasonable. 
 
Also, be very careful with the flex cables when you remove them to get the board out to work on.  Seems Marantz USA can get no part number for these, let alone replacements from Marantz Japan, so do not damage them!
 
If want to live a little more dangerously, there are resistors in the output of the headphone circuit to protect against shorted headphone wires.  I replaced the 100 ohm resistors with 10ohm 1/8 watt metal film resistors to increase the damping factor and thus contorl by the amp of the diaphragm quite a bit.  Using a 1/8th watt resister hopefully will let it play fuse and blow if there is a short to protect the transistors.  Anyway, a little risk but did help clean up the bass.  FWIW.   Resistors are  R425 & R426. 
 
Regards,
Greg 

 

[Gregss]

Hello,
 
Sorry for the near repeat on the subject.  Too many sites..
 
Greg 

 

[bretemm]

With marantz, what by marantz has a optical audio out? And will work with a sr5009? I'm wanting to use my Schiit Audio amp and dac with marantz but the sr5009 dosnt have optical audio out, thanks

 

[Claritas]

With marantz, what by marantz has a optical audio out? And will work with a sr5009? I'm wanting to use my Schiit Audio amp and dac with marantz but the sr5009 dosnt have optical audio out, thanks

My CD6005 has one. Based on photos, CD5004/5 does too. But those are CD players. You can always call Marantz to ask about compatibility. I've spoken to them at length and they've taken the time to answer all my questions. Best luck!

 

[bretemm]

Ok thank you

My CD6005 has one. Based on photos, CD5004/5 does too. But those are CD players. You can always call Marantz to ask about compatibility. I've spoken to them at length and they've taken the time to answer all my questions. Best luck!