[imran27]

Does this work with the PS4? (I should add that wouldn't be it's primary use).

If I'm not wrong, PS4 is coax digital/optical output only, right?

In that case unfortunately it won't work with PS4. It only supports USB input for audio and Preamp & headphone for outputs

 

[proid]

Hi everyone
Just got alerted to this program by my friend. I too would like to register for a turn to review the unit in Hanoi.

My equipment at the moment include: AKG Q701, Grado RS2e and H6. My amp/DAC is just the very basic LH Labs v6, so I'm really looking forwards to trying the PLAY before our lunar new year.

Finally got time to join this prestigious program. I would like to include my info as below:
1. City and Country: Hanoi, Vietnam
2. My equipment: my main cans are Audio Technica AD2000 and Alessandro MS2e. Little Dot I+ with Burson v5 and a plethora of tubes. Aune S16 as DAC. Burson Cable+ Pro and a Dell printer cable to sum it all up.
And the pic:

Spoiler

 

[audiobile]

If I'm not wrong, PS4 is coax digital/optical output only, right?

In that case unfortunately it won't work with PS4. It only supports USB input for audio and Preamp & headphone for outputs

PS4 works with various USB sound devices. Maylfower ARC is the only one that advertises it. I'm not sure it's ideal or bug free (I heard for example it can lead to reversed left/right channels), but it can work. Just curious if anyone had plugged this in to try it.

 

[Burson Audio]

Hi Guys,

Thank you again for your support for Burson and the Head-fi community.

There is an optional tweak which may slightly improve the sonic performance of the Burson Play.

There are two caps on the main board designed to ensure the stability of the Play when using our own Burson V5i opamps. However, after extensive testing, we realized that this feature is overkilled and totally unnecessary. Furthermore, we realized that without these two caps, the Play sounds a little more refined.

These two red caps are indicated in the photo below. Firstly, please power down and disconnect the Play from power! Then you can simply use a small plier to pull them out like pulling out a tooth. : ) It won't damage the PCB at all but please mindful of other components around them.

Of course, this is an optional tweak and the Play functions perfectly with or without it. However, all Burson Plays from now on will ship without these two caps.

Happy listening,
Dennis

 

[Oscar-HiFi]

Hi Guys,

Thank you again for your support for Burson and the Head-fi community.

There is an optional tweak which may slightly improve the sonic performance of the Burson Play.

There are two caps on the main board designed to ensure the stability of the Play when using our own Burson V5i opamps. However, after extensive testing, we realized that this feature is overkilled and totally unnecessary. Furthermore, we realized that without these two caps, the Play sounds a little more refined.

These two red caps are indicated in the photo below. Firstly, please power down and disconnect the Play from power! Then you can simply use a small plier to pull them out like pulling out a tooth. : ) It won't damage the PCB at all but please mindful of other components around them.

Of course, this is an optional tweak and the Play functions perfectly with or without it. However, all Burson Plays from now on will ship without these two caps.

Happy listening,
Dennis

I've just done this, and will report back if I hear any differences. The Play is a great device as is though

 

[imran27]

Hi Guys,

Thank you again for your support for Burson and the Head-fi community.

There is an optional tweak which may slightly improve the sonic performance of the Burson Play.

There are two caps on the main board designed to ensure the stability of the Play when using our own Burson V5i opamps. However, after extensive testing, we realized that this feature is overkilled and totally unnecessary. Furthermore, we realized that without these two caps, the Play sounds a little more refined.

These two red caps are indicated in the photo below. Firstly, please power down and disconnect the Play from power! Then you can simply use a small plier to pull them out like pulling out a tooth. : ) It won't damage the PCB at all but please mindful of other components around them.

Of course, this is an optional tweak and the Play functions perfectly with or without it. However, all Burson Plays from now on will ship without these two caps.

Happy listening,
Dennis

I'm definitely gonna remove these but if possible can you tell what these capacitors are for? Are these in the signal chain for LP stage or supply decoupling for LP stage? What exactly are those?

If they are specific to a stage I want to check opamps before and after removing these caps in that particular stage.

 

[selvakumar]

Does this work with the PS4? (I should add that wouldn't be it's primary use).

its power by usb audio no optical input

 

[Makiah S]

Sadly my demo unit will not have those caps removed, I made a very modest attempted... was not able to apply enough force to remove them and choose not to try a more aggressive pull as I don't have the skill necessary to repair the unit!

 

[raoultrifan]

There are two caps on the main board designed to ensure the stability of the Play when using our own Burson V5i opamps. However, after extensive testing, we realized that this feature is overkilled and totally unnecessary. Furthermore, we realized that without these two caps, the Play sounds a little more refined.

Done! Those 2 little "teeth" have been removed.

I'm definitely gonna remove these but if possible can you tell what these capacitors are for? Are these in the signal chain for LP stage or supply decoupling for LP stage? What exactly are those?

I honestly found NONE caps in the signal path, so I really think that PLAY has no caps in signal path at all (unless you have better eyes than me and you could actually find one); headphone protection for DC voltage is taking care by the IC from nearby the 6.3mm jack. These 220pF WIMA caps are probably compensation caps, feel free to read more about it here, here, here or here; also this article has a very good Q&A too. They're directly connected between the inverting input (pin 2) of Voltage Amplification stage single opamps and transistors outputs. Theoretically, compensation caps help when using non-"unity stable" opamps (in Voltage Amp. stage) or when driving highly capacitive loads (e.g.: high impedance headphones with very long cables), not our case, of course.

 

[Asahi Templar]

Would this be comparable to the schiit modi 2 multibit? I've been using an essence STX for 10 years now. It's done the job, but it's time for me to upgrade. I must say, the Burson Play looks attractive, but I have no place slotting it in to my computer. Lack of a drive bay with the Fractal Meshify C case. But as an external solution, it looks really good. But honestly, I just can't seem to see what I'm gaining here vs. the Essence STX.. Same thing with the Schiit Modi 2 Multibit.

Would love it if someone opened my eyes a little on the subject, many people are more experienced in this situation!

I have actually been comparing it directly to the Magni/Multibit stack and it meets/exceeds it depending on taste. The basic 299.99 version is actually very similar to the schiit stack. The most noticeable difference is that the Multibit increases the bass a bit but due to this I would say the play is more Neutral. I also think the Plays USB implementation is better than Schiits, I usually use optical with the Schiit as I found the USB to be finicky.

If you go with the V6 Vivid version, the separation of instruments improves and it sounds more open/detailed as a result but it may not be to your taste depending on your headphones. I find a lot of songs sound TOO separated on the HD 660 S, its like you are running them through a analysis program rather than listing to music. Its fantastic with the 650 though, as it benefits from the open sound. I prefer to put the Basic NJR op AMPs in the SIngle channel slots when I use the 660 S as it tones down the vivids a tad, but I like all Vivid with the 650.

My main gripe with the Play has been that I think the gain is too high and its causing hiss even with the 650s 300 ohm impedeance. Tried a attenuator which got rid of the hiss but killed the bass. However the mod Burson mentioned here seems to have helped. I pulled the caps out earlier today and it did make the Play Quieter. Have to turn up the volume a bit more now, but the hiss reduced. I was also getting some feedback when I actually plugged in the headphones or touched the plug near the headphone jack and that has gone away after the mod. Still need more testing but seems to have improved the Play thus far.

 

[raoultrifan]

I too have the feeling that after doing the above mod the background noise decreased a bit when using high sensitivity cans, though I don't feel the internal gain getting changed in any way...volume level seems about the same as before to me, but will check this out again in the coming days.

PLAY seems a bit warmer to touch now...or is it just me being subjective? I measured 37C on top case after few hours of continuous loud music playing; too bad I haven't measured the temp before this mod. However, higher temp is usually better for Class-A amplifier, as per thermal agitation inside the semiconductors.

BTW, in the last couple of hours I've been listening to "VA - Top 100 Club Hits - 2017" and I can't believe how well bass sounds on PLAY with my FOSTEX T50RPmk3, it's like listening to headphones with nearby subwoofer being ON...such an incredible punch and low-end extension. I'm sorry I wasn't listening to exactly same tracks before doing the above mod, so now can't be sure it's my imagination or bass does indeed sounds more "profound" now. Also, the very sensitive Beats Solo 2 has a very good bass at levels between 5-10, so even at low levels PLAY has the right bass & punch.

 

[Makiah S]

I have actually been comparing it directly to the Magni/Multibit stack and it meets/exceeds it depending on taste. The basic 299.99 version is actually very similar to the schiit stack. The most noticeable difference is that the Multibit increases the bass a bit but due to this I would say the play is more Neutral. I also think the Plays USB implementation is better than Schiits, I usually use optical with the Schiit as I found the USB to be finicky.

If you go with the V6 Vivid version, the separation of instruments improves and it sounds more open/detailed as a result but it may not be to your taste depending on your headphones. I find a lot of songs sound TOO separated on the HD 660 S, its like you are running them through a analysis program rather than listing to music. Its fantastic with the 650 though, as it benefits from the open sound. I prefer to put the Basic NJR op AMPs in the SIngle channel slots when I use the 660 S as it tones down the vivids a tad, but I like all Vivid with the 650.

My main gripe with the Play has been that I think the gain is too high and its causing hiss even with the 650s 300 ohm impedeance. Tried a attenuator which got rid of the hiss but killed the bass. However the mod Burson mentioned here seems to have helped. I pulled the caps out earlier today and it did make the Play Quieter. Have to turn up the volume a bit more now, but the hiss reduced. I was also getting some feedback when I actually plugged in the headphones or touched the plug near the headphone jack and that has gone away after the mod. Still need more testing but seems to have improved the Play thus far.

I agree, as much as I hate to admit... this USB implementation is top freaking notch! It's quieter than the Coaxial input form my EL Dac <.<

Now it turns of sound... I'm not quite ready to spill the beans... but with my initial impressions the Play is very much an ESS Sabre Dac, there's a quickness to the sound... with a slight focus on ambient noise over micro detail, in a sense it's ever so slightly more exciting! The Play also has a nice sense of space to it! Not so much airier but a bit wider, echos in a room extend just a little longer

Now the EL Dac on the other hand... has this weight to it... drums are hardier, vocals are... chestier, it's not that it's slower but... there's just that much more decay and resolve in the release/sustain, ambient noise is not as evident and the top end is a little sweeter/better resolved... while the echo of the bell in "drum an bell" doesn't sustain as longer it's vibrato is more evident. The slight changes in pitch as it fades into silence are more apparent, there's just better texture all in all. But it's also not as quiet... I can't say that it's relaxed because micro dynamics are also more apparent on the EL Dac but... there's just a weight that I appreciate, but this weight also adds a some what... almost intimate character, not as wide as the Play but neither sound any more or less airer than the other

I'm currently running through my Chesky Headphone Demo disc play list and listening to "drum & bell" along with 4 voices with my Schiit Vali as the amp and my HD 800 [silver cable'd with SDR mod]

Given how good the Line out in the Play is I'm confident the Classic an Vivid opAmps will take it to that next level!

Though the stock module has a nice tonality... the imaging could be a bit more 3D, but with music it's fine and more importantly it has a good balanced pleasant sound, with nice resolve. While at this time I still feel the EL Dac+ Vali 1 does a better job dynamic headphones, switching into my Planars the play is clearly better, I guess I should also invest in a $100 solid state amp... but honestly I don't really see the value in going that route...

I just feel a good all in one Solid State Dac/Amp is an amazing value, I started out with such a set up and added in tubes later. While I haven't yet heard the schiit stack and won't compare it, in terms of value I think going Single End with a Solid State is the best place to start for new comers. All in one's present an even better value up front, though they can hold you back later down the line. With how popular the Hifiman/MonoPrice M1060/LCD 2C are becoming alongside the HD 6## series, I think new hobbyists are going want prefer the flexibility of solid state over the specificity of a tube system

Given how it scales with the Classic an Vivid OpAmps and how well the Dac it self performs I really do think you guys have a winner here, most impressive though is this USB implementation! Holy freaking smokes it IS CLEAN, easy to install and works like magic!!!!!!! Gawd good clean usb ALONE makes this a winner! I can't tell you how much I hate usb... heck I just bought a SECOND usb to Coaxial converter for my system because I continue to have such a bad experience with USB. @Burson Audio @Burson B, you guys are really setting the bar for how a USB implementation should sound!!!!!!

 

[selvakumar]

Hi Guys,

Thank you again for your support for Burson and the Head-fi community.

There is an optional tweak which may slightly improve the sonic performance of the Burson Play.

There are two caps on the main board designed to ensure the stability of the Play when using our own Burson V5i opamps. However, after extensive testing, we realized that this feature is overkilled and totally unnecessary. Furthermore, we realized that without these two caps, the Play sounds a little more refined.

These two red caps are indicated in the photo below. Firstly, please power down and disconnect the Play from power! Then you can simply use a small plier to pull them out like pulling out a tooth. : ) It won't damage the PCB at all but please mindful of other components around them.

Of course, this is an optional tweak and the Play functions perfectly with or without it. However, all Burson Plays from now on will ship without these two caps.

Happy listening,
Dennis

Buron Audio in right direction

 

[Makiah S]

So some more listening impressions from today,

For starters I continue to be impressed with how good the USB implementation is! Today's impressions are with my 2012 PreFazor LCD 2 rev2.2, so let's start with some good

I compared the PlayVivid with my Geek Out v2+ Balanced, and I was surprised! This SE topology was more precise and airy/spacious than the GO v2+, with Miles Davis so what the percussion track which sits distinctively behind the high hats, to my ears anyways, had a better sense of both clarity and depth! The Play Vivid was also yet again a little quiter, with a blacker background still, in comparison the GO V2+ while not as spacious/airy did have slightly better resolve, especially in the mid range

So all in all sonically the two perform very well again'st one another. As the GO v2+ slightly better resolve is met by a some what busier presentation as well, where as the PlayVivid's more spacious, open and precise presentation has slightly less resolve in the mid range. Seeing as one's a portable and the other's a Desktop they each have their various markets. But for a $500 all in on the GO v2+ has sonically been a reference for me. Though the Play's biggest advantage is it's Single Ended topology! Going balanced means extra cost, for either a single cable or many adapters, or both. AN honestly the benefits of going balanced on the Geek Out v2+ don't necessarily merit the increase cost. So if you don't need portability, the Play is the obvious choice

Some bad though, I compared Play to my fully balanced Audio GD NFB10ES2 and... this one was interesting. Apples for Apples, the SE out of my NFB10ES2 is terrible... the balanced out by it self is also less than ideal... so straight out of the box the Play is the better choice, how ever... there is a fairly inexpensive tweak that really vaulted the NFB10ES2 above the Play...

It's Single Channel Polarity Reversal, I got the idea and adapter from @Torq who him self came across the concept from another user, either way in essence it

In short, the idea is to more efficiently and completely utilize the full power capacity of an amplifier, and the available rail-to-rail potential difference/swing, by driving left and right channels in opposite phase/polarity within the DAC/amplifier, and then correcting phase/polarity before getting to the headphone (we do it in the headphone cable, with a simple adapter).

In theory, driving the channels in offset like this will cause less sag against each rail and draw current from both of them independently, rather than in a common mode. At headphone power levels, the relative power demand differences are not going to be huge, but then we’re not dealing with very much available power to begin with.

That being said, I have found that with the Low Gain output on my NFB10ES2 it makes a pretty big improvement to the overall clarity! Without the tweak the NFB10ES2 output is kinda meh... with it, it opens up nicely! I've found this to be the case with my Planar Magnetic and Vintage AKG K240s

Finally back to the Good, again for a SE amp it's dominating over the competitors! As each of the balanced amps either require additional cost or time, and I always like simple'r solutions as not every one has the time to tweak

 

[Makiah S]

Tonight I moved over to the Classic opAmps from the Vivids, and while I'm working finishing up another review I choose to listen to some Japanese Post Rock.



An once again here's something new I've not heard from them! On my LCD 2 there's a pleasant wetness in the slides on the guitar riffs, at first I thought I'd prefer the drier sound of the Vivid opAmps on my LCD 2 but the Classics are quite inviting.

Though they are a little noisy... how ever I've been informed that the mode recommended above helps to alleviate that! I will say that added noise is with the caps still installed quite marginal and doesn't detract from the resolve