Naginata build with Katana blade and Carbon Fiber
Nov 6, 2009 at 4:47 AM Thread Starter Post #1 of 17

haveblue

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My university lab has a long 1/16”-thickness 1”-inner diameter braided carbon fiber tube that I don't see us using anytime soon, so I permanently borrowed it for this project. I ordered the cheapest carbon steel Katana Shirasaya I could find. Carbon steels are used in actual swords while most cheap knockoffs are stainless steel. SS blades are purely decorative since they can shatter upon hitting something. Shirasaya means a plain uncoated lacquered-wood scabbard and handle. There is no guard between the blade and the handle making a shirasaya unsafe for cutting. Since I only needed the blade for this project, there was no reason to order a more expensive fully dressed sword with the same blade. After some research, I found out that my sword’s manufacturer Musashi Swords makes some of the best functional blades out of all the bargain katanas. Although now I wish I bought a curved blade instead of a straight one.

I created a simple CAD model in Solidworks to calculate center of gravity and moment of inertia about the CG. Reading up on the mechanics of sword performance, I stumbled upon the center of percussion. This is the point on a shaft-like object where if a force is applied, there is certain rotational node down the shaft where there is no change in translational velocity upon impact. Designers of baseball bats and tennis racquets take this into account. Essentially, this means that if you strike an object at the center of percussion (blade) with your hand located at the rotational node (handle grip), then your hand feels no vibration or discomfort. The hand is neither pushed back or forward; it continues with the same velocity after the impact as it did before.

NaginataSW.png


The CAD model allowed me to play around with the counterweight mass to result in an optimal CG and rotational node location assuming the blade impacts 12" from the tip. The CG is located at the pink arrows and the rotational node location (created plane) is right between where I would place my hands.

Here is the blade, the carbon fiber shaft, and the scabbard:

Naginata2.jpg


I cut spacers from 1” aluminum rod to create a tight fit between the blade tang and the CF shaft. Steel pins hold the spacers to the blade and to the shaft. I cut out a ¼” slice from a 2.5” aluminum rod for the guard. I found a big ass steel bolt that had a flat 1”-diameter section which fit perfectly into the end of the shaft, and cut it to the correct weight. It was suggested to reinforce the joint part of the shaft, so I found a 1/16” thick aluminum tube that fit perfectly over the shaft as a collar. This will help absorb some of the bending force in that area from the shaft. The guard, collar, and habaki(copper fitting between blade and guard) were sanded and polished.

Naginata1.jpg


I then sanded the shaft with 1000grit, epoxied the counterweight to one end, and coated the shaft with epoxy for a glossy finish.

Naginata6.jpg


Pinning the spacers onto the blade:

Naginata3.jpg


Sliding the blade assembly into the shaft/collar assembly:

Naginata4.jpg


Pins are inserted for holding the spacers to the shaft. These are essentially non-load-bearing, since the blade is held almost completely with the friction fit between the spacers and shaft. I figured that placing all the torsional and longitudinal loads on small holes drilled through the weave matrix was a bad idea. Last step is to slide the collar up to hide the pins. Bring on the zombies….

Naginata5.jpg


Specs:
Overall length: 80.7”
Blade length: 27”
Carbon shaft length: 51”
Overall mass: 3.20lb
Blade mass: 1.50lb
Counterweight mass: 0.60lb
Chosen center of percussion point from tip: 12”
CG location from tip: 39.5”
Rotational node location from tip: 61.3”
Moment of inertia about CG: 1918lb-in^2

Naginata8.jpg

Naginata9.jpg
 
Nov 6, 2009 at 5:14 AM Post #2 of 17
You, sir, are a badass.
 
Nov 6, 2009 at 9:59 AM Post #4 of 17
Nice job there!
As a practioner of the oldest Japanese sword fighting style i regularly see the more experienced guys practicing with Bo and Naginata. Nice to see someone who actually tried to make one.
 
Nov 17, 2009 at 2:34 AM Post #11 of 17
That blade is definitely not made for cutting. Also im sure its not sharpened.
Cutting with a completely dull blade is not realy safe... no fun either...
It would definitely look bad-ass in the living room though
smily_headphones1.gif
 
Nov 18, 2009 at 6:52 AM Post #12 of 17
The blade is carbon steel and is made for cutting. It's not a differentially-hardened exotic steel, but it is still high carbon steel nonetheless
smily_headphones1.gif


I sharpened the crap out of it and it is shaving sharp along the entire blade. I've been hanging water bottles on a tree and slashing them. It is MUCH different and harder to wield than a sword.

I'm setting my sights on one of these if I ever run into a ton of disposable income:

MartialArtSwords.com

L6 tool steel...http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fM9zhwdIRgY
 
Nov 18, 2009 at 2:18 PM Post #13 of 17
Its part of the style im practicing, though i havent come far enough to use naginata.
YouTube - katori shinto ryu naginata ogamidojo. nl arnhem
YouTube - Katori Shinto Ryu Naginata

Be VERY carefull with a sharp sword. Its also higly inadvisable to go swinging a shinken without practice. Have seen people cut them self by merely touching the edge.
If you wanna buy one, buy japanese made. The quality is far better than the swords on the page you listed.
And honestly sir, using a 40 dollar sword for cutting is not recommended. Not all carbon-steel swords are made for it.

I dont wanna be an ass, i can understand your passion, as Japanese swordfighting is a also a passion of mine. Find a dojo that practices one or more styles.
YouTube - Great tameshigiri by Ueki sensei
 
Nov 18, 2009 at 2:24 PM Post #14 of 17
you stole the handle? wow.. classy.. just ask next time.
 
Nov 27, 2009 at 8:52 AM Post #15 of 17
Seems hollow carbon fiber would be a poor material to use for a sword/polearm handle. I wouldn't go around slicing into anything dense or your handle will likely shatter. Wood is used for a reason because it gives just enough to withstand the hit, but is rigid enough to deliver the blow. Wood is also heavier than carbon fiber, but I'm guessing you accounted for it being far too light when you set the balance point. I work with balancing carbon fiber and wood all the time.
 

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