[Windchill]

Quote:

Originally Posted by solbergg My parts from Digi-Key arrived yesterday, but unfortunately my tools from Contact East have yet to arrive, so i am staring at a pile of little electronic parts. I also have to wait for the protoboard to arrive, and Radioshack has been slow to ship in the past, so I might have to wait until next week for that. I ended up ordering a serpac case, but I am starting to wonder if that was a bad decision. I starting installing the panel items, and I dont have enough room for my potentiometer! I'm trying to decide if I should bend the parts on the pot to make it fit, or place the pot in an odd spot on the case, such as the top.

If it's the Panasonic, those pins are a bit fragile so I wouldn't bend them (like I did before). Just turn the pot 90 degrees and get a knob without a marker on it.

 

[solbergg]

Yeah, I did get the 65 case with the panasonic pot. Hmm, that 67 does give a lot of room, I might just order that and an alps pot, and save the panasonic for another project. Plus, I ordered the Almond case thinking it was white, but it's more of a creamy color, which I don't like. Btw, what tools did you just to make the holes in the case? My drill seemed like overkill.

 

[NeilR]

I think I overkilled it with a drill

Are you talking about the panel holes or the holes in the side? For the holes in the side for the input and power jacks, I screwed the case shut and started with a 1/16" bit right in the slot between halves, then worked my way slowly up. I found the solid black plastic easy to work with. I saw a comment here that the transluscent colors are more brittle and tougher to drill. The front panel was easy and if you screw it up you can always repalce it for a couple dollars.

I did a Cmoy in a mint tin with the ALPS RK97 where I glued the Alps to the board, with the PC terminals sticking up. I found it easier to work with the wiring. You have to get the fit just right, of course.

I think the Pimeta board was designed such that it would fit in an H65 with the ALPS RK97. You may not need to go with the H67 case and if you do not have to, you should stick with the H65. It fits a shirt pocket better, especially with an iPod or other slim source. If I could figure out how to get a Pimeta with a bass boost mod into an H65 I would do it. You will need more clearance than the Pimeta board, of course, if you wire it from the top.

 

[solbergg]

Alright, all of my parts arrived yesterday, but my internet was down all night, argh! Luckily it is back up now, but I realized that I totally blow at soldering. I'm doing the first part of the cmoy setup, soldering on the jumpers. Unfortunately, the solder only stays on the iron, and not the protoboard. Also, since the iron is so hot, the protoboard is burning! Yikes, is there any thing I can do?

 

[NeilR]

Quote:

Originally Posted by solbergg Alright, all of my parts arrived yesterday, but my internet was down all night, argh! Luckily it is back up now, but I realized that I totally blow at soldering. I'm doing the first part of the cmoy setup, soldering on the jumpers. Unfortunately, the solder only stays on the iron, and not the protoboard. Also, since the iron is so hot, the protoboard is burning! Yikes, is there any thing I can do?

What iron? Wattage? What solder?

I have found that cleaning the board and component leads helps. I got some 99.99% pure alcohol from a local (pretty decent) electroncs outlet. I also find that cleaning the board in the middle of the job helps. I've noticed that if I have problems with solder taking, it is usually late in the project when the board probably has a lot of accumulated gunk and old rosin on it.

I use 63/37 "eutectic" solder. Although I don't think it would help you with your current problem, it is supposed to cure quicker and result in fewer cold solder joints than standard 60/40. I like working with the eutectic solder.

You might want to sacrifice one of those RS boards just soldering jumpers here and there until your success rate improves and you figure out your problem. It is not a lot of fun to get 85% or 99% of the way done and then burn off a pad!

Make sure your tip is very clean. Wipe it on a moist sponge each time you attempt a joint. Put some solder on the tip before applying it to the pad. Use a chisel tip and orient a flat side of the chisel flat against the pad.

If that does not work, you have demons and may need a priest to do an excorcism

 

[solbergg]

Iron: Weller WLC100
Wattage: Between 5 and 40, I had it set to level 3 out of 5
Solder: Kester 66/44 (thats more than 100%, but that's what it says)

My tip tends to become a massive blob of solder, since the solder wants to stick to it only. Also, when I pull the iron away, it wants to take the jumper with it

I tried a number of techniques, but with no luck. Do you think the alcohol will make the biggest difference?



Quote:

Originally Posted by NeilR What iron? Wattage? What solder? I have found that cleaning the board and component leads helps. I got some 99.99% pure alcohol from a local (pretty decent) electroncs outlet. I also find that cleaning the board in the middle of the job helps. I've noticed that if I have problems with solder taking, it is usually late in the project when the board probably has a lot of accumulated gunk and old rosin on it. I use 63/37 "eutectic" solder. Although I don't think it would help you with your current problem, it is supposed to cure quicker and result in fewer cold solder joints than standard 60/40. I like working with the eutectic solder. You might want to sacrifice one of those RS boards just soldering jumpers here and there until your success rate improves and you figure out your problem. It is not a lot of fun to get 85% or 99% of the way done and then burn off a pad! Make sure your tip is very clean. Wipe it on a moist sponge each time you attempt a joint. Put some solder on the tip before applying it to the pad. Use a chisel tip and orient a flat side of the chisel flat against the pad. If that does not work, you have demons and may need a priest to do an excorcism

 

[NeilR]

66/44 is a rather strange blend. What is the Kester part#? Where did you get it?

I would try cleaning the board. Just use regular isopropol alcohol, but let it dry.

Are you using a chisel tip?

 

[Windchill]

Sounds like you might be feeding the solder onto the iron instead of the pad/wire. Heat the wire and pad at the same time and feed the solder onto the pad so that it flows onto the pad and the wire. Shouldn't have too much come off on the iron then unless the tip is really dirty.

 

[solbergg]

Quote:

Originally Posted by NeilR 66/44 is a rather strange blend. What is the Kester part#? Where did you get it? I would try cleaning the board. Just use regular isopropol alcohol, but let it dry. Are you using a chisel tip?

I ordered the 66/44 based off of the Tangent tools recommendations. It listed it as part number 111-277 from Contact East. I'll give cleaning the board a shot. What do you mean by the pads? Also, since this is holes, which side should I be soldering, the white or reflective side?

 

[solbergg]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Windchill Sounds like you might be feeding the solder onto the iron instead of the pad/wire. Heat the wire and pad at the same time and feed the solder onto the pad so that it flows onto the pad and the wire. Shouldn't have too much come off on the iron then unless the tip is really dirty.

I'm guessing the pad is the metal on the actual pcb? If so, does that mean I should be soldering from the reflective side?

 

[NeilR]

Quote:

Originally Posted by solbergg I'm guessing the pad is the metal on the actual pcb? If so, does that mean I should be soldering from the reflective side?

Yes, you solder the foil/reflective side. Like Windchill said, put the tip against the wire and the pad. If you were trying to solder the white side, you will find this much easier....

I would definitely do a bunch of practice solders on a board before you do the Cmoy for real.

 

[NeilR]

Quote:

Originally Posted by solbergg I ordered the 66/44 based off of the Tangent tools recommendations. It listed it as part number 111-277 from Contact East. I'll give cleaning the board a shot. What do you mean by the pads? Also, since this is holes, which side should I be soldering, the white or reflective side?

That solder part# is 60/40. It is called "Kester 44" and that is your confusion, I think.

 

[solbergg]

Quote:

Originally Posted by NeilR Yes, you solder the foil/reflective side. Like Windchill said, put the tip against the wire and the pad. If you were trying to solder the white side, you will find this much easier.... I would definitely do a bunch of practice solders on a board before you do the Cmoy for real.

Ok, soldering on the reflective side is waaaay easier. I have all the jumpers in, and am now moving onto the power section. Thanks for the tip! Now onto more tinkering.....