[Edwood]

Crap. Looks like my Fluke 110 DMM is toast.

Normally it turns itself off automatically if I leave it on. (which I do alot.) How could this happen? The battery was in properly, besides the battery carrier does not allow for the 9 volt battery to be inserted backwards.
If the DMM was set to measure DC, could a short be caused by the probes touching together for too long?

I could smell the slight acrid smell. Looks like a fried diode? Part of the top popped off due to thermal expansion it looks like. I managed to find that little piece and it reads:

47-10
N2 (2)

Anyone know what part this is? Would Digikey carry it?
Would it be feasible for me to just replace the burned out part?

Of course this is a good excuse as any to buy a better DMM.

Any recommendations? One good for matching resistors and possibly transistors?

-Ed

 

[Kenny12]

looks liek the diode is fried and is the cap next to it split in half?

 

[bg4533]

Did you buy this used or new? Is it under warranty? I don't think it is possible to fry it by touching the probes together. My guess is that another component was out of spec and put a bit too much voltage through the components you see fried.

 

[Edwood]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kenny12 looks liek the diode is fried and is the cap next to it split in half?

I think it's an MOV for surge supression. There is another one on the board, and it's got that "slit" in it. It looks like it was supposed to be that way, as it is a perfect slit, and not a crack.

And yes, the Diode is obviously fried, I just don't know what type it is. I would like to replace it.

-Ed

 

[Edwood]

Quote:

Originally Posted by bg4533 Did you buy this used or new? Is it under warranty? I don't think it is possible to fry it by touching the probes together. My guess is that another component was out of spec and put a bit too much voltage through the components you see fried.

New, but that was well over two years ago. I don't have the receipts or paperwork anymore.

I don't know how it could've happened. It was working fine when I stopped taking readings. And unless I built my Pimeta horribly horribly wrong, I doubt it got fried by that.

It was just sitting off to the side.
And it was working when I set it there.

-Ed

 

[1racerx]

Those caps are suposed to have a split in them.

No you cant damage you multimeter by shorting the probes . . infact the only way to kill a multimeter on volts range is by alot of overvolts.

By the size of the diode it looks like on put across the battery in reverse to prevent blowing up you meter if you put it in backwards. Alot of devices have these (car stereos, laptops etc etc) It may be shorted now so your multimeter wont work at all.

Try using another multimeter to check wether the diode is infact across the battery . . if it is remove it and the multimeter should work.

just a few ideas

 

[Edwood]

The battery carrier only allows for the battery to be in one way. Perhaps the battery was defective and shorted out or something?

I had just changed the battery, and it was working fine for a couple of hours.

This is my only Meter, so I'm kind of in a chicken before the egg scenario.

I guess this is as good an excuse to upgrade as any.

Any suggestions?

I'd like to keep my budget under $500.

Then I could fix this one and have a spare to use on the go perhaps.

-Ed

 

[Edwood]

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1racerx By the size of the diode it looks like on put across the battery in reverse to prevent blowing up you meter if you put it in backwards. Alot of devices have these (car stereos, laptops etc etc) It may be shorted now so your multimeter wont work at all. Try using another multimeter to check wether the diode is infact across the battery . . if it is remove it and the multimeter should work. just a few ideas

Well, I decided, what the heck.

I desoldered the dead diode, and the DMM works!

Now, anyone know which diode I could replace it with? It's labelled:
47-10
N2 (2)

I have no idea what that means.

Well, I have a useable DMM now, but no protection against faulty or reversed battery. (reversed is not likely with the battery holder Fluke uses.)

I'm guessing a faulty battery is to blame.
-Ed

 

[1racerx]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Edwood Well, I decided, what the heck. I desoldered the dead diode, and the DMM works! Now, anyone know which diode I could replace it with? It's labelled: 47-10 N2 (2) I have no idea what that means. Well, I have a useable DMM now, but no protection against faulty or reversed battery. (reversed is not likely with the battery holder Fluke uses.) I'm guessing a faulty battery is to blame. -Ed

glad it worked for you . . .

most likely just a failing diode, it just happens sometimes.

Replace it with any general purpose diode you can fit in there. Just a 1N4004 surface mount equiv will be fine. Its nothing special.

 

[Edwood]

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1racerx glad it worked for you . . . most likely just a failing diode, it just happens sometimes. Replace it with any general purpose diode you can fit in there. Just a 1N4004 surface mount equiv will be fine. Its nothing special.

Would this work?

Digikey Part#: S5MCDICT-ND

It should physically fit.

-Ed

 

[kevin gilmore]

I do not believe it is a diode unless the writing that is hidden from
view actually calls it a diode. Diodes generally don't come in that
package. I believe it is a capacitor. 47uf, 10V tantalum.

 

[PinkFloyd]

You're looking for these Ed if you can't find them a standard tant will be ok

 

[guzzler]

I think it's a diode, sorry to disagree. The tantalum capacitors usually come in the yellowy orange packages, as you can see elsewhere on the board. Diodes do come in that package and also are always black, AFAIK. I've got some 1N4001 SMD equivalents here marked

D C M 1

What does the silkscreen on the board say for that position?

g

 

[Edwood]

-Ed

 

[aeriyn]

The silkscreening next to the position for the fried component says, "C18."

This leads me to believe that Dr. Gilmore is correct and it's a cap of some type.