[guzzler]

I don't know if many people remember seeing my CMoy layout using the Panasonic EVJ and a TLE2426 railsplitter, but a fellow audiophile (not sure if he's here on Head-Fi) from the UK, Alan, has got round to building it. It came out better than I thought it would, and he's agreed to let me post the pictures for everyone to see. He used a photo-etching method, AFAIK, and produced excellent results with it. Anyway, enough waffling, pictures:

Layout

Etched board

Completed

Click here to download the layout in Eagle so you can etch one for yourself, should you so wish

My thanks again to Alan, and hope you liked the shots from him

g

 

[Ishkabibel]

You wouldn't have one of those PCBs around for sale would you? I might be able to create a working Cmoy with that rather than the protoboard disasters I've made...

 

[jamont]

That's a nice layout. I'd be interested if you wanted to sell some boards...

 

[Tobrew]

I've been planning to build one just like this and just might use your PCB. I notice that R4 and R5 are jumpered. Why? Also, what are the values on the other resistors? Does this follow the standard CMOY resistors? Thanks for the great post Guzzler.

 

[skyskraper]

wow. very cool!@!!

 

[Nisbeth]

Nice layout guzzler!. Could be useful to have a few of those boards lying about for "emergencies"

/U.

 

[mustang]

I'd be interested as well regarding the boards...

 

[alexm]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tobrew I've been planning to build one just like this and just might use your PCB. I notice that R4 and R5 are jumpered. Why? Also, what are the values on the other resistors? Does this follow the standard CMOY resistors? Thanks for the great post Guzzler.

R5 is not required, they say it might be useful to tame low level hiss (I left it out in my cmoy).
As for R4, I suppose it's for convenience: you could for example set up easily a switchable gain (Guzzler please correct me if I'm wrong

).

Let me say again (I did already in another thread) that minipcb is so kawaii (a cutie)...

 

[guzzler]

This is just the email I wrote to Alan regards the resistors, didn't really want to write it all again

:

The values from Right to Left (with the potentiometer on the right, and output to the left):

1. 100K (R2 in Headwize article)
2. 1K (R3 ... )
3. 10K (R4 ...) change this one to alter gain
4/5. See the note on reducing noise in the HeadWize libary. The one on the right is inside the feedback loop, and the left one is outside. You'll have
to jumper them if you don't use either of them.

regards boards, it wouldn't be hard to get some made up quite cheaply but it's an easy circuit to etch yourself; all the traces are quite wide and nothing is too close together. I wouldn't be able to do boards until the start of december due to restrictions on personal businesses at my university which I start in a week. Someone else could take on the boards if they would like to? My suggestions would be to include variable pitch on the input capacitors so you wouldn't have to find ones in that particular size, although it is a common size. If double sided wasn't any extra, there is space to put an LED current limiting resistor in as well, as opposed to the two spare power pads that are there at the moment.

g

 

[Tobrew]

I've been wanting to build a Cmoy that uses a TLE2426 railsplitter so this seemed like a great place to start. I used the PCB design by guzzler and modified it slightly. I added a diode and an LED on the board. These two items make the powersupply section look like a MINT (my next project). I added the diode because in the Serpac case I used it is way to easy to reverse the battery polarity. I also put the LED on the board because the case is clear and I thought I would be a neat effect. I used ExpressPCB to redraw the board and then did the etching myself. Very easy. Thanks guzzler for giving me another project

. Anyway, here are the photos.

 

[bpribadi]

Excellent layout! Very neat and compact!

 

[tkerby]

Alright, how do you do those 3d pcb pictures?

 

[guzzler]

Quote:

Originally Posted by tkerby Alright, how do you do those 3d pcb pictures?

It's a plugin for Eagle called Eagle3D.

http://web2.callisto.twam.info/

g

 

[guzzler]

Little embarassed, but I've made a mistake, as pointed by alexm. R4 isn't working as a hiss reducing resistor as I intended, but could be a switchable gain like alexm said. It still needs to be jumpered if you don't use it. My apologies for that, and I'll amend the PCB design

* slinks off with tail between legs *

g

 

[shw24]

nice layout... , btw anybody know where to get the parts here in the UK? sorry for this silly question, coz this will be my first DIY...