[SnobbyNoob]

Houston, we have a problem... *sobs uncontrollably*

It seems the headphone jack on my phone is no more. I just tried to plug something in and the holding power the jack used to have is gone. It doesn't "click" going in, and won't actually maintain a connection. Looking at the hole, it does appear something is missing inside.

This wasn't even in the list of fears I had about spending so much money on a phone. I'm sure I've used the headphone jack as much as nearly anyone since I got the phone but I'm obsessively meticulous with how I care for it so I'm at a loss for how this happened. Less than 24 hours ago, everything was fine so I don't know if the damage occurred removing the cable then, or putting one in today.

Anyway... I scoured through my emails and thankfully, my two year warranty is still good. Does anyone have any advice or input for me on the returns process, such as how they might treat this claim or anything you find relevant and useful. I wanna gather some perspective before I put in the claim.

 

[csglinux]

Houston, we have a problem... *sobs uncontrollably*

It seems the headphone jack on my phone is no more. I just tried to plug something in and the holding power the jack used to have is gone. It doesn't "click" going in, and won't actually maintain a connection. Looking at the hole, it does appear something is missing inside.

This wasn't even in the list of fears I had about spending so much money on a phone. I'm sure I've used the headphone jack as much as nearly anyone since I got the phone but I'm obsessively meticulous with how I care for it so I'm at a loss for how this happened. Less than 24 hours ago, everything was fine so I don't know if the damage occurred removing the cable then, or putting one in today.

Anyway... I scoured through my emails and thankfully, my two year warranty is still good. Does anyone have any advice or input for me on the returns process, such as how they might treat this claim or anything you find relevant and useful. I wanna gather some perspective before I put in the claim.

Sorry to hear that @SnobbyNoob Did the connector break off, or has it just been bent in? You might be able to see in there with a good light and a magnifying glass. If it's the latter case (most likely it's just bent), then with the right tool (ask your dentist!), you might be able to reach in and bend it out again. Otherwise, I'd ask about a warranty exchange at the location where you purchased the phone.

https://www.quora.com/How-strong-is-3-55mm-audio-jack

 

[HungryPanda]

My right channel cut out over 2 weeks. I just twist till it works

 

[435279]

Houston, we have a problem... *sobs uncontrollably*

It seems the headphone jack on my phone is no more. I just tried to plug something in and the holding power the jack used to have is gone. It doesn't "click" going in, and won't actually maintain a connection. Looking at the hole, it does appear something is missing inside.

This wasn't even in the list of fears I had about spending so much money on a phone. I'm sure I've used the headphone jack as much as nearly anyone since I got the phone but I'm obsessively meticulous with how I care for it so I'm at a loss for how this happened. Less than 24 hours ago, everything was fine so I don't know if the damage occurred removing the cable then, or putting one in today.

Anyway... I scoured through my emails and thankfully, my two year warranty is still good. Does anyone have any advice or input for me on the returns process, such as how they might treat this claim or anything you find relevant and useful. I wanna gather some perspective before I put in the claim.

It the warranty route is a dead-end then a phone repair shop could fix it, the headphone socket is on a separate board.

If it was mine I would probably get the part and attempt the repair myself and probably put a new battery in it at the same time.

 

[Dannemand]

Houston, we have a problem... *sobs uncontrollably*

It seems the headphone jack on my phone is no more. I just tried to plug something in and the holding power the jack used to have is gone. It doesn't "click" going in, and won't actually maintain a connection. Looking at the hole, it does appear something is missing inside.

This wasn't even in the list of fears I had about spending so much money on a phone. I'm sure I've used the headphone jack as much as nearly anyone since I got the phone but I'm obsessively meticulous with how I care for it so I'm at a loss for how this happened. Less than 24 hours ago, everything was fine so I don't know if the damage occurred removing the cable then, or putting one in today.

Anyway... I scoured through my emails and thankfully, my two year warranty is still good. Does anyone have any advice or input for me on the returns process, such as how they might treat this claim or anything you find relevant and useful. I wanna gather some perspective before I put in the claim.

Sorry to hear that, buddy

If you are in USA and choose to go the Warranty route, I can share some experience with LG's Texas service center, whom I had to use twice:

1) To replace a broken glass back, for which I paid a very reasonable $78 (free shipping, about 2 weeks).

2) When the wide angle camera had become blurry, I suspect after the first repair (or possibly the drop that cracked the glass back). That second repair was covered under warranty (again free shipping). I was promised expedited service, but it took 2-3 weeks, and they decided to send me a refurbished replacement phone instead. It was a very strange process where I could never quite get clear answers to what was going on. Based on the service tracking they provide, I actually think they lost or misplaced my phone after receiving it, and that's why I received a replacement. Getting the replacement phone carrier unlocked by T-Mobile was a nightmare that took another 2-3 weeks.

The LG agents are some of the nicest and most courteous people you will find anywhere. They'll go out of their way to please you and say what you want to hear, even if it doesn't always quite match the facts.

I'll use LG warranty service again, but only if I absolutely have to. And I much appreciate their 2 year warranty.

I had a local CPR store repair my Nexus 5 a few years ago, to replace its power button, and they broke the frame & display assembly in the process. They were never able to get an original replacement for it, and I had to live with an inferior display and non-Gorilla glass. So I'll choose manufacturer repairs over that any day. Just something to consider.

 

[ctheanh]

Fascinating post - thanks for sharing! Do you still have access to an LG phone? If so, what's your success rate at bypassing the Android mixer? I've been trying a number of things on my rooted V30, but with no luck. I did find one post on the V20 thread that looked optimistic:

https://www.head-fi.org/threads/lg-v20-sound-quality.816024/page-188#post-13674261

However, I've tried this on the V30 and it doesn't work. The V30 Oreo /system/build.prop does not contain this line:

audio.offload.pcm.16bit.enable=false

But it does contain this line:

vendor.audio.offload.pcm.16bit.enable=false

Changing the above to "true", and/or adding "audio.offload.pcm.16bit.enable=true" has no effect on the V30.
The closest I've gotten to something interesting was to replace the AUDIO_FORMAT_PCM_16_BIT flags in audio_policy.conf and audio_policy_configuration.xml in /etc, /vendor/etc and /vendor/etc/audio with
AUDIO_FORMAT_PCM_24_BIT_PACKED. This results in audio_flinger reporting 44 kHz/24 bit, but it still goes through the mixer. (I still hear the resampling artifacts and audio_flinger still reports "mixer" on the output thread). I've never heard a V20, so I'm not 100% sure the fix in the above link actually worked, or just tricked audio_flinger. The internet is rife with people hearing "night and day" differences over tweaks that have demonstrably no effect on the audio However, it does look interesting that the output thread reports "DIRECT". I've not been able to get the V30 to do that.

So the bottom line is, we'd all love to hear from you if you have any thoughts or suggestions on a system-wide fix for the V30 re-sampling issue...?

P.S. Neutron and UAPP avoid this problem by calling the separate AudioTrack API. This results in direct or direct_pcm playback, sending the audio buffer straight to the DAC and by-passing the mixer. It works. Bit-perfect (you're only padding zeros, as @zenmastering points out) - and as a result of by-passing the mixer, there's no resampling. But it's not a global panacea, because we (as users) can't add AudioTrack calls to 3rd party apps. It's the streaming apps that are the remaining issue for us, e.g., we can't play offline 44 kHz PCM via the Tidal app without Android upsampling back to 48 kHz. TBH, I'm not sure what nasty side-effects there'd be if we could also persuade all 44 kHz PCM to bypass the mixer. I suspect there'd be none. The frustrating part of all this is how long this has been an issue. I've tried to reach support techs at LG and Tidal, but have never been able to find anyone who could even understand or acknowledge there's an issue. I have a depressing little sportsmans bet on at the moment with @Dannemand that the V50 is going to have the exact same problem.

Sorry,

Maybe I will retry G8 - I did try Vivo Xplay6 for DSD-nature also and I think Chinese audiophile is quite goot at it.

Back to LG - For me modifying build.prop or some *.config file is not effective. You need to have Visual Studio with ADB Debug to check what the system are working. Sometime, you even only need Root Explore to see the output file to check if the system really do their job. Sorry, it's quite long time so I don't remember in detail.

With alsaplayer - you even can modify the mixer_path.xml file. I think in kernel level, the music system is still bit-perfect and hi-res support - I check the kernel source code of Lenovo X3 and I don;t think LG will customize it in worse direction.

 

[archy121]

*UPDATE*
- Using WhiskeyOmega Mod files -

Posting to share my experience with those that plan to root the V30 and use the XDA’s WhiskeyOmega mod files.

After having spent fair amount of time using whiskeyomega mod files on my rooted LG v30 I wanted to help clarify the differences between the individual mod files. There has been confusion on what audio changes each mod file makes.

Mod Files 1-4 address only the headphone output and the others have additional mods for speakers which I ignore altogether.

From extensive use with BGVP DM6 (particularly sensitive detailed low impedance IEM) I have concluded following about each Mod File -

- Mod File 1 is original LG settings.

- Mod File 2 is like Aux mode.
It boost volume and adds low end rich sub bass rumble.

- Mod File 3 is like HIM mode.
Volume boost is surprisingly same as mod file 2 and doesn’t really sound any louder.
Main difference bass is now a bit tighter and sub bass rumble is slightly reduced compared to 2.

- Mod File 4 is just like 3 with same volume boost.
Main difference is bass becomes even tighter so that the sub bass rumble is further reduced to almost none.

So depending on your earphones and music taste mod 2-4 will work fine. I personally prefer to use 2 or 3 as 4 just depletes all visceral sub bass with my DM6.

Mod 3 was a good compromise but I found dropping the volume very low at night was creating strange audio artefacts so I went back to 2.

I think it’s related to how the sub bass is affected by the modifications of file 3. Or it could just be my sensitive IEMs not matching up too well with the V30 .

Hope this helps someone.

 

[maxtreme]

Sounds like I should pair my OPPO with Neutron too! Great recommendations!

 

[jsmiller58]

Is this UAPP issue, from the original post, still a thing?

“USB digital-out has a little bug right now in UAPP, which requires you to disable the "HiRes Direct Driver" option to work properly. (Many thanks to @yklee118 for this tip!) The developer is aware of the issue and it will hopefully be fixed in a future release.”

 

[435279]

I didn't know that was ever a thing, I've never had to disable anything to use USB digital out. Unless I misunderstand the problem.

I just tested this again with the HiRes driver enabled and it works perfectly.

 

[jsmiller58]

I didn't know that was ever a thing, I've never had to disable anything to use USB digital out. Unless I misunderstand the problem.

I just tested this again with the HiRes driver enabled and it works perfectly.

Honestly I ask because easily 75% of the time I forget to switch to the Android driver as this suggests when I use my external DAC/Amp, and I don’t detect any problems either...

 

[majki84]

Is there already a way to do some eq without root and / or using neutron or uapp? I need more bass on Spotify and in quad dac section there is only a few predefined sets of eq and "bass" is not that good for me (need some tweaking).

 

[monsieurfromag3]

Is there already a way to do some eq without root and / or using neutron or uapp? I need more bass on Spotify and in quad dac section there is only a few predefined sets of eq and "bass" is not that good for me (need some tweaking).

This is pretty great.

 

[csglinux]

Is this UAPP issue, from the original post, still a thing?

“USB digital-out has a little bug right now in UAPP, which requires you to disable the "HiRes Direct Driver" option to work properly. (Many thanks to @yklee118 for this tip!) The developer is aware of the issue and it will hopefully be fixed in a future release.”

This was an older issue that is now fixed, so I added an update about this to the first post. One recommendation I also added there - it's been necessary for some of my external DACs, e.g., KSE1500, to increase the buffer size (under USB settings) in order to avoid glitches in playback of hi-res PCM files.

 

[jsmiller58]

This was an older issue that is now fixed, so I added an update about this to the first post. One recommendation I also added there - it's been necessary for some of my external DACs, e.g., KSE1500, to increase the buffer size (under USB settings) in order to avoid glitches in playback of hi-res PCM files.

Thank you!