Mr. Millett's low-voltage hybrid headphone amp (photos)
Dec 19, 2002 at 5:50 PM Thread Starter Post #1 of 24

pcyeh

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After one week of work, I finally finished Mr. Millett's hybrid headphone amp. Here are the prictures of the amp:

~RW_7865Small.jpg


~RW_7868Small.jpg


This circuit of this amp is designed by Mr. Millett, the owner of Wheatfield audio. He published his design on Audio Xpress and the main purpose is to give new DIYers some easy project to work on. The schematic can also be found on his site:
http://www.pmillett.addr.com/hybrid_head.htm. This is indeed a really nice and easy-to-follow project. Mr. Millett listed the part number, vendor of all the parts required in the project which makes it very easy to build the amp. You don't have to worry about what parts to buy and where to buy. The circuit part is really easy to build once you get the PCB from http://www.diycable.com/catalog/products/hybrid.htm . It only took me less than a day to finish the soldering. It is really a very good project for new DIYers to begin with.

However, don't belittle the amp just because it is simple to build. Actually the sound of the amp is really good. In Mr. Millett's article, he said "being a fan of tube sound myself, I think it sounds a whole lot better than one of those $350 opamp in a wooden box audiophile headphone amp". Though I don't have that "opamp in a wooden box", I believe what Mr. Millett said is true since I prefer this hybrid amp than the Corda Blue that I once owned and I don't think Grado RA-1 (oops!
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) is much better than the Corda Blue. The hybrid amp is powerful. It can drive my HD600 to very loud volume at 8~9 o'clock direction. It has stronger bass than the Corda according to my memory. The sound is warm just like what tube sound should be. Since I really like tube sound, I like this amp better compared to the other solid state amp I once owned (Creek OBH-11, Corda Blue) except the MAX.

Before I put the whole circuit into the enclosure, I upgraded the original generic resistors by Riken resistors. I also replaced the RCA jacks by the Cardas Rhodium jacks, headphone jack by Neutrik jack, and potentiometer by Alps Black Beauty. The hookup wire I used was the cotton covered wire sold by Angela. The simple circuit and good parts result in a nice sound. I would suggest any tube fan who wants to get an headphone amp with a budget around $150 to try to build this amp. It is really easy to build and definitely sounds better than the Creek amps you can buy with that price. If you want to use some better parts as I did, you will need to add another $100. In my opinion, it definitely worths the money.
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By the way, I want to thank Mr. Millett for his help through the project. I asked him quite a few questions , some of them are stupid, but he was always very helpful to me. He is really a great guy!
 
Dec 19, 2002 at 6:22 PM Post #2 of 24
Congratulations! It looks great, and I'll bet it sounds great too!

Two questions: where did you get the enclosure? and how does the sound compare to the headphone out of your Fisher amp (looks like a Fisher 400)?
 
Dec 19, 2002 at 6:46 PM Post #3 of 24
Nice work! I was considering building this amp when I have time and now I'll definitely have to give it a try. Please do tell where that enclosure is from.
 
Dec 19, 2002 at 7:37 PM Post #4 of 24
I ordered the Hammond Aluminum Enclosure (1444 and 1434 series) with size of 10''x6''x2''. Originally I didn't want to paint the enclosure, I just wanted to leave the enclose in its aluminum color. However when I was drilling the screw holes for the Neutrik jack, the drill slipped and it left a deep scratch on the surface
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. I was really mad at myself. Since the scratch is too obvious, I couldn't stand it any more. So I went to Home Depot and bought 2 bottle of spray paint. Since I didn't have experience before, I sprayed too much on the enclosure. It was really ugly, so I sanded the paint off to give a second try. I did better in the second attempt but I was still not satisfied
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. At the end, I just gave up and found a local power coating store for customized work. He charged me $50 for the coating. The powder coating is really beautiful and it is very tough against scratch, that is the reason why car parts and motorcycle parts are usually powder coated. After a long journey, I finally got my pefect enclosure. If you can find some good deal in your local powder coating store, I would definitely suggest you to try it. It is really awesume
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.

Wodgy: You are right, the receiver is a Fisher. It is a Fisher 500c. I didn't have chance to compared the sound yet because I am going to recap the 500c with Blackgate and Auricaps soon. I would do some comparison between them after the recap and let you know the result.
 
Dec 19, 2002 at 8:41 PM Post #5 of 24
Very nice work! Did you hardwire from the chassis-mount tube sockets to the PCB?

I just got finished finals, and will start my buildup of the Millett hybrid this weekend. I may have pics up by Christmas, depending how things go.
 
Dec 19, 2002 at 11:33 PM Post #7 of 24
Quote:

Originally posted by Pepsione1
That is one of the most beautiful DIY amp on this board. Congrats.
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Now, can we see some pictures of the inside?


Where's The Amp ****??!!

ok,
erix
 
Dec 20, 2002 at 12:03 AM Post #8 of 24
Quote:

Originally posted by erix
Where's The Amp ****??!!


****?! Is that all you guys think about?!! (wife's comments)

[size=xx-small]Psst: Where's the ****?
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[/size]


BTW pcyeh,

The $50 bucks you spent for the powder coating was worth it. It looks really nice.
 
Dec 20, 2002 at 3:40 PM Post #11 of 24
Very very nice indeed. Something like this would be a fun DIY for me after I take a shot at a CMOY. That amp will be perfect for my dad at work. Great stuff!
 
Dec 20, 2002 at 4:29 PM Post #12 of 24
Here are the photos of the inside:

CRW_7869Small.jpg


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I feel a little ashamed to show these photos because the wires are not very well organized. Since I have to connect the pins of the tube socket mounted on the enclosure to the PCB, I need 7 wires for each socket. The total number of wires I used in the amp is around 30, and the wires are quite stiff. That makes the inside looks kind of messy. By the way, the part that is covered by the green tape is Alps Black Beauty. I covered it with the tape because some of the paint of the Alps fell off and it shorts LED when it is mounted to the enclosure.

Kurtw: I listened to the hybrid amp and the MAX for a short while, and my feeling is that the sound of MAX is clearer and has better resolution. But the hybrid amp is also clear, just not as good as MAX. I also feel that MAX sounds more balanced over all frequencies while the high frequencies of the hybrid amp sounds a little weak compared to the mid-range and bass. However, the sound of the hybrid amp is warmer and sweeter. I feel the sound of violin and vocal are quite enjoyable from the hybrid amp. In one word, I think MAX is more neutural, balanced, and accurate, while the hybrid amp sounds warmer. These are the just first impressions I have now. Since all the caps are new, probably the sound would improve after burn-in.
 
Dec 21, 2002 at 6:55 PM Post #14 of 24
This is my first DIY project. I am really happy to see the result. Thanks for all the nice words you gave me, they really meant a lot to me
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. I am reviewing circuit and electronic theory now
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. Hope I can design my own circuit soon in the future!!
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Hi Serow:
In Mr. Millett's article, he said if the voltage is below one-half of the suppy voltage (27V), the distortion increases dramatically. He compared two different bias voltages for the tubes, 13. 5V and 19V. According to his measurement, he found that 19V has slightly smaller distortion (virtually all second-order harmonics), and the output waveform is a little more clipped at the top. He said that he found 19V to be much more pleasurable to listen to than other bias voltages. He also mentioned that he believes that much of the appealing sound of a single-ended triode amp has to do with the introduction of second-order harmonics into the music. When I built my amp, I listened to 12V, 13.5V and 19V for a short amount of time. I couldn't tell much difference between them, so I ended up setting the bias voltage to 19V as Mr. Millett recommended.
 

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