[bhjazz]

So I'm figuring out where I want the volume shaft to be on the faceplate for my Pimeta. With the Alps RK27, there is a pin to the left of the volume shaft.

What is the general concensus for this pin: do you drill out a hole for it to sit in to keep the whole pot from shifting as you use the pot, or not?
I dug through the builds thread, but only saw a few shots that would give me any ideas.

Thanks!

 

[MisterX]

Normally I just cut that pin off.

 

[matthewcarlrose]

I would always drill the extra hole, it reduces stress on the connections to the pot.

Cutting it off is almost more effort than drilling the extra hole

.

Matt

 

[cetoole]

I cut it off if the pot is to be board mounted, or attempt to drill the hole accuratly if not. What bothers me more is the metal flaps some pots have, instead of circular pins, as they are more of a pain to drill out.

 

[tangent]

Quote:

Originally Posted by matthewcarlrose I would always drill the extra hole, it reduces stress on the connections to the pot.

Maaayyybe... What it's there for is to prevent the pot from turning if the mounting nut isn't tight enough. My solution to that problem is to just make sure the mounting nut is tight enough.

Quote:

Originally Posted by cetoole What bothers me more is the metal flaps some pots have, instead of circular pins, as they are more of a pain to drill out.

Next time you come across one, just grab it in your pliers or wire cutters and break the thing off. The metal those are made of is usually very brittle, so it snaps off pretty cleanly. With wire cutters, you're not trying to actually cut the tang, just grab it with something that will hold onto it while breaking it.

 

[Eokboy]

What about just using 2 bolts on the bush to hold the pot?

 

[cetoole]

Quote:

Originally Posted by tangent Next time you come across one, just grab it in your pliers or wire cutters and break the thing off. The metal those are made of is usually very brittle, so it snaps off pretty cleanly. With wire cutters, you're not trying to actually cut the tang, just grab it with something that will hold onto it while breaking it.

Sorry, I guess I wasnt clear. I should have said that they are more of a pain when I want to use the flap, such as on an Alps RK40 pot that isnt board mounted.

 

[bhjazz]

Very interesting.
At first I figured, "well hell, another hole to drill...whatever," realizing that it is indeed there to reduce strain. But then I realized that the board will be connected to both the front panel as well as two screws which connect to the bottom of the Hammond case, which will likely make it pretty stable all by itself.

I'll be lopping it off tonight, then. I've spent wayyyy too much time with the drill already, and just leaving it there and tightening down the nut on the volume shaft makes to board go a bit wonky...

Thanks as always, guys!

 

[matthewcarlrose]

Maaayyybe... What it's there for is to prevent the pot from turning if the mounting nut isn't tight enough. My solution to that problem is to just make sure the mounting nut is tight enough.

QUOTE]

I see your point however short of putting the millet in a vice and swinging on the nut, all whilst not trying not to scratch anything - the nut on mine insists on loosening so that extra hole has added confidence that it isnt pulling the wires from the board.

Next time i'll use loctight.

Matt

 

[tangent]

Quote:

Originally Posted by matthewcarlrose putting the millet in a vice and swinging on the nut...

I didn't have anything quite so violent in mind. I just use a nut driver. You can put a lot more torque on it that way than if you use a Crescent wrench. I suppose a box wrench would do okay, too, but the nut being as thin as it is, I worry about rounding off its corners. You've got to be pretty negligent with a nut driver to do that.

Quote:

Next time i'll use loctight.

Loctite (sp!) would help, but I've yet to find it necessary.

 

[Eokboy]

I use two bolts to hold my handwired pot and it never got loose. But how hard do you guys turn your volume knob?