[Trasselkalle]

Three quick questions:

• Will drilling a slightly larger hole in the connections of the Neutrik Rean Tiny XLR be ok for a cable size that is slightly larger (22 awg) than it is initially intended (24 awg)?
• Any advice on how to do a good strain relief when the outer cable is thicker than the plug? 
• Any other mini-xlr plugs that you suggest I use instead for this purpose?

 
Background: For a new headphone cable, I'll be using two cables in a twisted cable configuration which makes the overall cable much too thick to plug straight into the xlr. Each cable has its own thick (3.1 mm diameter) insulation layer and shield (which I will use as ground) for a whopping 6.5 mm diameter per channel (13 mm for both) when including the jacket. This will (I assume) make the cable thicker than any mini xlr's intended strain relief. I was thus planning to 'McGyver' a solution where I would separate and cover the 22 awg leads and shield with some non-conductive epoxy or similar, then cover everything up with shrink wrap. I expect to cover the whole cable with something nice from Texflex, or some other European supplier (additional tips are always welcome!). 
 
I fully expect this to be fiddly, and in need for patience and a good approach more than brute force. I'll be using the same solution for strain relief on the 1/4" (6.3 mm) end, but I've got more room at the back there since I'm starting from a Furutech plug (expensive, I know, but it's my first cable so I'm overspending some as probably most newbie's do) which can take 8 mm and as far as I remember is fairly roomy at the back of the plug (where the strain relief would be).

 

[Steve Eddy]

 
Do you actually have a REAN mini-XLR? They use a collet/chuck type strain relief like the Neutrik XLR's and TRS plugs. The inside diameter of the chuck is WAY to small for what you're looking to do.
 
You can get the Switchcraft mini-XLR's with a back shell that allows for cable diameters of about 1/4". You're still going to be very cramped inside the connector though.
 
se
 
 

 

[Trasselkalle]

No, I haven't got the REAN yet. Sorry - should have been more clear about that. Anything around that's even more wide than the Switchcraft? It sort of looks like I would be able to cut away some of the black shell on that one. I thought I might be able to do that on the REAN also, but I've never held one in my hand.
 
Edit: I've included two pictures for what is inspiring me. Of course, mine will be different due to my single ended connection in the headphones, but they have successfully done this (with another cable) in the 6.3 mm end, so it should be possible
 


 

 

[Steve Eddy]

 
Here's the REAN's chuck:
 

 
And that's the LARGE one. They come with two different size chucks, this one and a smaller one.
 
And of course you're also limited by the ass end of the connector which serves as the collet that tightens down the chuck.
 
The Switchcraft has the largest opening but it's only around 1/4" and you can't really make it much larger than that.
 
Any chance of using a bit smaller cable?
 
Also, what will you be plugging the mini-XLR into? Adapter cables or something?
 
se
 
 

 

[Trasselkalle]

Thanks for the picture - I thought the internal stuff would be possible to remove, sort of like how the SC one is described here: http://docs-europe.electrocomponents.com/webdocs/08ec/0900766b808ec30f.pdf
 
It's going into my headphones, and yes - before you say it - it's more than likely (in fact, I count on it to be) overkill to use the two separate cables. Weight will also be an issue, but I am doing this to test these cables in particular. In fact - if push comes to show, I may end up re-terminating the headphones to double sided (at some point, I will want to go full balanced anyhow, but my current amp doesn't support that). Although I thought about it for convenience, going for a mini-to-normal xlr adapter and then have the cable connected to a full XLR would be awkward and a sign of a poor solution in my view. I wish there would be some expanding jacket for the xlr rather than the straight (in terms of thickness) ones. For instance, as I know that some of the Neutrik RCA jackets screw onto the SC mini-xlr, I wish it would be possible to use for instance the expanding part from the adapter plug below rather than the end jacket (edit: better picture added).
 


 
In the end - if they don't turn out ok from a sound perspective, I will re-use the wire for interconnects to my secondary speaker-rig instead. However, I really wish I could get this to work as I find it enjoyable to try and figure out clever solutions to hard problems.

 

[Steve Eddy]

 
Well, the only mini-XLR's I'm aware of are the REAN's, the Switchcraft's and Switchcraft clones.
 
Good luck!
 
se
 
 

 

[Trasselkalle]

Thanks, I'll need it
 
Anyone else with tips on how to deal with this in a clever way?
 
How about removing the isolation before the connectors and isolating with cotton in a short three-braid? That would bring the diameter down significantly, but have the disadvantage of going around the nifty/PITA thick isolation... What would you do?
 
Edit: How about the strategy below?
By stripping away the insulation just before the cable enters the connector and re-fitting it with 3 mm (in diameter) cotton insulation, I should be able to do a nice and fairly tight short 3-braid. I've got some insulation like this already from another cable project I've done, and they fit cable diameters up to 0.8 mm (my 22 awg ones are 0.64 mm). Doing the braid somewhat tight means that the diameter will go down slightly from the 3 mm it would be in its 'natural' (i.e. not stretched out) state if using a 0.8 mm cable. I would then arrive at something that is slightly below 9 mm to fit into what is an 8 mm maximum cable size on the 1/4" plug end, so that end should be ok in this way. For the xlr end, I aim to start with the larger bushing (the black plastic jacket) of a Switchcraft mini-xlr. I know that one makes the SC mini-xlr accept 0.170" cables rather than the 0.115" cables of the normal SC jack. That's still just 4.32 mm cable thickness, so I'm still not at a solution without cutting away more of the tapered jacket and hoping this will yield me the needed <8 mm back end of the cable. I expect that my xlr connector will be so full of cable that I won't need any form of insulation spacer etc (as seen in http://docs-europe.electrocomponents.com/webdocs/08ec/0900766b808ec30f.pdf).
 
Edit2: I may even be able to insulate with 1.3 mm cotton. I tried on some cable that looks like 22 awg (not positive) just now, and the cotton does extend a bit so it may work.
 
Comments?

 

[cyberspyder]

Hey, I think you should aim to get some thinner coaxial cable, or stick with some thinner unbalanced/balanced cables, because there is absolutely no way you can fit the Sommer twin in any mini-XLR, you'd need to cut away the insulation, but I worry that'll make the cable weak at the solder points since you aren't clamping onto the actual insulation/jacket.

BTW, you can retrofit the larger 3.5mm Switchcraft plug barrel onto the Switchcraft mini-XLR plugs. They'll also fit the Redco and the Switchraft clones sold on ebay, this has an opening of 0.290", around 7.36mm. If needed, you *might* be able to drill it out to 10mm, but that's pushing it.

Brendan

 

[Steve Eddy]

Quote:

BTW, you can retrofit the larger 3.5mm Switchcraft plug barrel onto the Switchcraft mini-XLR plugs.

Yeah, but the 3.5mm barrel lacks the "ledge" on the inside that keeps the metal strain relief, and subsequently the contact insert, fully inserted inside the shell.
 
se
 
 
 
 

 

[cyberspyder]

Nothing epoxy won't fix . Either way, there is simply no way to make this happen without sacrificing durability.

 

[Steve Eddy]

Quote:

Nothing epoxy won't fix

. Either way, there is simply no way to make this happen without sacrificing durability.

True enough. At least if one insists on using such large cables.
 
se
 
 
 

 

[Trasselkalle]

Thanks guys - it might be better that I re-terminate the headphones into double-sided instead as that would do away with my problem and let me use the intended strain reliefs on each end. Does 3.5 mm female jacks on each side sound right, or would you suggest I try to add a second mini-xlr on the right channel instead as they have that nifty lock? 
 
As I said in the OP Correction, it was an earlier post - not the OP - I will at some point want to try balanced cables so I'd have to do this work sooner or later anyhow. I just don't have an amp that can take balanced cables at the moment. Does this sound more reasonable?

 

[swishbrade]

 
Well, the only mini-XLR's I'm aware of are the REAN's, the Switchcraft's and Switchcraft clones.
 
Good luck!
 
se
 
 

Hi SE.
Thanks for your valuable advice. May I know, as per your experience, will an eight braid of 24 gauge wires fit into a mini XLR 4P switchcraft jack?

Thanks!
John

 

[Steve Eddy]

 
I've not done an 8 strand braid nor tried stuffing 8 wires of any gauge into a 4 pin Switchcraft min-XLR. I suppose 24 gauge would be possible if the wire had relatively thin insulation on it and you cut off the strain relief portion of the metal piece that's used to keep the contact insert inside the barrel.
 
se
 
 

 

[swishbrade]

Quote:

 
I've not done an 8 strand braid nor tried stuffing 8 wires of any gauge into a 4 pin Switchcraft min-XLR. I suppose 24 gauge would be possible if the wire had relatively thin insulation on it and you cut off the strain relief portion of the metal piece that's used to keep the contact insert inside the barrel.
 
se
 
 

Thanks SE! Really appreciate it. Looks like I will have to keep within a 4-wire braid limit if I were to stick to mini XLRs.