[vYu223]

Hello everyone, I've been considering to build a mini^3. I'm wondering which parts I should get based on this parts list: The Mini³ Portable Stereo Headphone Amplifier

I'm building the "high performance" version instead of the "extended runtime" version.

Which parts should I get; which configuration would give me the best sound quality? Meaning, which resistors, capacitors, etc., etc.

Thanks in advance!

 

[MASantos]

Ti has recomendations for each and every position and there are already a dozen threads out there,including the oficial build thread over at HeadWize - Breaking News.

Have you searched around for the answer to your question?

 

[vYu223]

I guess I never thought of searching at headwize... I tried searching head-fi, but I kept getting results of things that were unrelated. I guess maybe it was because I couldn't think of the right search terms.

 

[vYu223]

I cannot find anything. I've even searched at headwize. "^" is an illegal character?? Also, I don't see it practical to scour 7 pages of build thread part 2, only to find out that the info is probably in part 1, which has reached its post limit. May someone please provide links/information?

 

[heatmizer]

The Mini³ Portable Stereo Headphone Amplifier
goto the parts list
toward the bottom

 

[darkfury18]

I don't think you need to get "better" parts. The parts recommended on the parts list will be good enough.

 

[grenert]

I'm surprised that the standard ceramic rail bypass caps listed are X7R, rather than C0G as Tangent recommends in his "Working with cranky opamps" article. I would think that those could be improved on.

 

[asebastian0]

I have had success with c0g as well as various film caps. Difference between x7r and c0g was six in one, half dozen in the other. Film caps I preferred over both.
Using very-low ESR Rubycon electrolytic caps at the power section produced a more profound change in overall sound: blacker backgrounds and subsequently more detail which is accompanied by what sounds like less dynamics/liveliness a more restrained, laid-back sound which a lot of people tend to like. These require some break-in and the latter improves with time, they may be carbon-activated not sure but they are the top of Rubycon's miniature line.
None of these are suggested or supported by amb though so, use at your own risk. Even using some very bizarre opamp configurations the mini^3 sounds a lot like the stock mini^3, a testament to a rock-solid design by Ti.

 

[error401]

Quote:

Originally Posted by grenert /img/forum/go_quote.gif I'm surprised that the standard ceramic rail bypass caps listed are X7R, rather than C0G as Tangent recommends in his "Working with cranky opamps" article. I would think that those could be improved on.

C0G is difficult to get and expensive at 0.1uF. They are only readily available for smaller values. You could probably go down to 0.01uF for these caps, but I don't see the benefit. A better dielectric (C0G/NP0) will have a more stable capacitance with applied voltage and temperature, but otherwise will perform similarly. In a decoupling application I don't think it's that critical.

 

[NelsonVandal]

Quote:

Originally Posted by grenert /img/forum/go_quote.gif I'm surprised that the standard ceramic rail bypass caps listed are X7R, rather than C0G as Tangent recommends in his "Working with cranky opamps" article. I would think that those could be improved on.

I'd be very surprised if anyone could pick out the difference in a blind test. I've tried to manipulate with caps in the Mini3 while playing (I guess theres a risk of frying things doing this), and I heard no difference at all.

 

[grenert]

Quote:

Originally Posted by asebastian0 /img/forum/go_quote.gif Using very-low ESR Rubycon electrolytic caps at the power section produced a more profound change in overall sound: blacker backgrounds and subsequently more detail which is accompanied by what sounds like less dynamics/liveliness a more restrained, laid-back sound which a lot of people tend to like. These require some break-in and the latter improves with time, they may be carbon-activated not sure but they are the top of Rubycon's miniature line.

Do you remember what series the Rubycons are, and if their ESR is lower than something like Panasonic FM?

 

[dumbears]

There are a few series having a very low ESR in Rubycon. Check these out: ZA, ZL, ZLH, ZLG. ZA series are considered more expensive than the other series.

 

[TzeYang]

ZA, ZL ZLH, all these three (IIRC) has equal/higher ESR compared to the FMs.

 

[asebastian0]

I used the MCZ, they are the "ultra low esr" type and about the only ones that were a perfect fit for the mini. They are used in high performance computing. I have one left so I may do a vivisection to see what is inside since the datasheet is not very informative and/or helpful.

I had to buy them in sets of 20 or more from china as they were not available here. There is a thread at diyhifi about these caps which drifts away starting on the 1st page to complete off-topic ranting but gets reeled in at about page 4 and may or may not be helpful. I did not finish it. As recollection serves these were the only rubycon which would fit... the Zxx series I think were too big but may squeeze in. (not sure)