[fran]

Thanks TomB.

I did actually bias them out of the casework, but I do have ventilation in the casework. I can't test them too easily in the casework though anyway!

I was toying with the idea of changing my 2x12V Tx to a 2x15V one to give it a bit more juice but that will probably wait until I have a project that will use the 2x12V Tx or else I happen on a 2x15V one handy.

Did I mention that this is now a cracking good amp?


Fran

PS is there still going to be a new group buy of the millet max in the new year?

 

[tomb]

Quote:

Originally Posted by fran /img/forum/go_quote.gif Thanks TomB. I did actually bias them out of the casework, but I do have ventilation in the casework. I can't test them too easily in the casework though anyway! I was toying with the idea of changing my 2x12V Tx to a 2x15V one to give it a bit more juice but that will probably wait until I have a project that will use the 2x12V Tx or else I happen on a 2x15V one handy. Did I mention that this is now a cracking good amp? Fran PS is there still going to be a new group buy of the millet max in the new year?

Yes, the Millett is an amp that has great bang for the buck.

The MAX is your choice if you want to upgrade to a 30V supply. The tubes will perform quite well at that voltage. However, 15V is awfully close to the absolute maximum for the tube heaters. The MAX incorporates a heater resistor between the two tubes' heaters. That lets you limit the voltage to optimum in the heater circuit.

We are still looking at new boards after New Year's, but it will be store-based rather than a Group Buy. Details will be on the MAX website or on DIYForums.org sometime soon.

 

[nikongod]

you can always break the trace on the old boards between the 2 heaters and wire a big ugly resistor PTP style from the sockets. The resistor SHOULD fit under the board in the typical Hammond case.

 

[fran]

On the 2x15V Tx - well I'm running it through a tread from a 2x12V (ie 24v) one at the moment and I'm just thinking that the extra few volts might allow the tread to work a bit better. If I ran the supply out of the tread then at say, 28V I'd have a bit more headroom. Maybe sonically there'd be nothing to gain, it was just an idea.

On the max - I've seen the comment that its a MH+e12 delay + diamond buffer (which is now exactly what my MH is) but that there is a synergy there that adds to more than the sum of its parts. Given that I ahve another tread to hand, plus the bits for a e12 delay and nearly all for a set of diamond buffers, I might just take a run at the max rather than a second MH.

I need to go and study the max pages now!...

The other thing that caught my eye was the 6GM8 version. I run a 24V aikido as my main preamp using these tubes. The aikido is a great design I know, but they are very nice sounding tubes too. You wouldn't have as much room to play with the heater voltages, but other than that, they would work well I'm sure.

BTW, how does something like the millet max compare to say, a M3 amp?


Fran

 

[tomb]

Quote:

Originally Posted by fran /img/forum/go_quote.gif On the 2x15V Tx - well I'm running it through a tread from a 2x12V (ie 24v) one at the moment and I'm just thinking that the extra few volts might allow the tread to work a bit better. If I ran the supply out of the tread then at say, 28V I'd have a bit more headroom. Maybe sonically there'd be nothing to gain, it was just an idea. On the max - I've seen the comment that its a MH+e12 delay + diamond buffer (which is now exactly what my MH is) but that there is a synergy there that adds to more than the sum of its parts. Given that I ahve another tread to hand, plus the bits for a e12 delay and nearly all for a set of diamond buffers, I might just take a run at the max rather than a second MH. I need to go and study the max pages now!... Fran

You'll find that there's no need for the TREAD on the MAX, either.