[Voodoochile]

You can spend between $60 and $90 on a STEPS, for an assembled uncased PSU, in my experience.

This is why it is nice to have the WW option. Spending a little on the wart now if your funding is tight, then building the nicer PSU later on. It was always nice how Headroom allowed you to do this with their smaller amps. Start basic, and upgrade later if you like.

 

[MASantos]

How, that's a large enclosure...

what do you plan to place between the PSU and amp?

another amp board and run it balanced??

Or is it just for the outer looks?


Quote:

Originally Posted by n_maher What, you mean this little thing??? And in my humble opinion the difference between the Elpac and STEPS is easily audible. To quote my friend Ian, "Holy $#%@, it's like a whole different animal!" And Zack is correct, the Millett lands in Boston tomorrow, around 2.

 

[Jazper]

Quote:

Originally Posted by mrdon OK, now you really found me a way to squeeze more audio juice out of my Millet! But the budget is the bottom line so... how much does it cost to build the STEPS PSU? I know the PCB from Tangent is $8 for version 1.0 and $12 for version 1.2. How much are parts?

Quote:

You can spend between $60 and $90 on a STEPS, for an assembled uncased PSU, in my experience.

or you can build one on protoboard for a bit less and use the extra money for extra parts /upgrades to it

(my psu for the m3 uses a simple design very similar to the steps, with a few additions and subtractions, the only thing that was costly was the expensive/high quality rectifier diodes and the transformer)

a breakdown of parts I used:

7x 1000uF/50v panasonic FM caps (could have used 4, would have been plenty)
4x RHRP860 rectifier diodes ($5 AU each! )
4x 0.1uF polypropylene caps (for bypassing the rectifier diodes)
1x 100ohm resistor (1/8 w)
2x .1uF polyester film (snubber) caps
1x 1uF polyester film cap (bypass)
1x 470nF polyester film cap (bypass cap)
2x 47uF electrolytic caps (panasonic FM - used 1x 100uF in one of the spots, but it was overkill, 47 would have been better)
1x 47ohm resistor
1x 1k resistor (2w!)
1x LM317T (will probably be replaced by a 338 later on, but it works fine .. )
1x heatsink for lm317
2x 1n4004 diodes (for the regulator circuit)
1x 47nF output bypass cap (polyester)
1x 27ohm resistor
1x 10k resistor
1x red LED
2x terminal blocks

1x 24v AC 160va transformer (pricy but the model below was only a few dollars less)
1x EMI/RF filtered IEC socket.

 

[aeroes]

If STEPS is better than ELPAC, should I expect a difference between ELPAC and TREAD? I've heard TREAD is identical to STEPS in Ripple Rejection Test.

TREAD could be a good solution to those who are prudent.

 

[en480c4]

Quote:

Originally Posted by MASantos How, that's a large enclosure... what do you plan to place between the PSU and amp? another amp board and run it balanced?? Or is it just for the outer looks?

Actually, that's just a temporary aluminum enclosure for the Boston meet. Nate placed an order somewhere (I don't remember where) and didn't have the minimum order together yet, so added stuff 'til he had enough. That case, which came with no top, was one of the things he added to meet a minimum order. Yup, he's crazy!
A Par-Metals case has been ordered, but hasn't arrived yet.


Quote:

Originally Posted by aeroes TREAD could be a good solution to those who are prudent.

I'm sure it would be, but when have people on Head-Fi been prudent?

 

[jamont]

Quote:

Originally Posted by multibit16 I'm going to try an ALW super regulator to power mine seeing as though I have one spare.

I've always thought this would make a lot of sense with the Millet amp. Let us know how it works.

 

[guzzler]

Quote:

Originally Posted by jamont I've always thought this would make a lot of sense with the Millet amp. Let us know how it works.

24V is quite high for a Jung type super regulator, and any failure will lead to the full voltage going across it. You'll need 29V minimum for the regulator to function properly, 30V to be safe. Personally, I'd make two regulators, one positive one negative, and leave out the ground lead. You'll have a much better safety margin then, and can use lower voltage opamps... Still, nice to know how you get on...

g

 

[multibit16]

Quote:

Originally Posted by jamont I've always thought this would make a lot of sense with the Millet amp. Let us know how it works.

No problem

BTW I've run these regs output at 30v with no problem to power a Naim Pre-amp, 27v for the main psu in a cdp etc, I've never had one fail yet.
Theres a lot of guys who use the SR's set to 24v to run the old Nac42.5 pre's on Pinkfish media

 

[jamont]

Quote:

Originally Posted by multibit16 No problem BTW I've run these regs output at 30v with no problem to power a Naim Pre-amp, 27v for the main psu in a cdp etc, I've never had one fail yet. Theres a lot of guys who use the SR's set to 24v to run the old Nac42.5 pre's on Pinkfish media

Which opamp do you use?

 

[multibit16]

Quote:

Originally Posted by jamont Which opamp do you use?

AD825 http://www.alw.audio.dsl.pipex.com/products.htm

 

[Jazper]

the ad797 can handle 36v max (rail to rail)

 

[multibit16]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jazper the ad797 can handle 36v max (rail to rail)

Yes but its not as stable as the AD825 in this circuit, ALW uses the AD825's in his kits because they are supposed to work better

 

[klappar]

Has anyone tried stacking buffers a la pimeta on their millet? Would it be feasible at all in this configuration?

 

[rreynol]

Quote:

Originally Posted by klappar Has anyone tried stacking buffers a la pimeta on their millet? Would it be feasible at all in this configuration?

It was mentioned in one of the millet threads by drew (or nate, can't recall) that stacking buffers was done for grado usage.

 

[drewd]

Quote:

Originally Posted by klappar Has anyone tried stacking buffers a la pimeta on their millet? Would it be feasible at all in this configuration?

Yes, it was helpful for my Grados and DT-880s.

-Drew