Master Clock Talk

[bden59]

Cool. I've just fit the ones I linked to, very nice quality and only £2.59 each. Easier than I expected, I've never fit BNC before, I just took my time.

I will be super interested to hear others' opinion on this transparent laboratory cable.

I ordered too. I'll compare this cable(with cheap bnc connectors) with HT DC III. But in cheap connectors, the center pin is made of brass, at best. I think a good copper cable needs a connector with a copper contact pin.

 

[MartinWT]

I use TruConnect BNC plugs for both the HT and Neotech cables. It fits well and the centre contact pin is gold-plated brass. You absolutely don't want a copper pin due to oxidization.

https://www.rapidonline.com/truconnect-58u-50-ohm-bnc-crimp-plug-rg58b-u-16-0200

 

[Psilonaught]

I use TruConnect BNC plugs for both the HT and Neotech cables. It fits well and the centre contact pin is gold-plated brass. You absolutely don't want a copper pin due to oxidization.

https://www.rapidonline.com/truconnect-58u-50-ohm-bnc-crimp-plug-rg58b-u-16-0200

There are beryllium copper pin plugs out there, which are usually gold plated. I'm just not sure they really make a difference over a brass / gold plated pin

Isn't beryllium just brass with a higher copper % anyway?

Given I can clearly run 75 ohm cables ok in my 50 ohm setup I'm going to order the Neotech NEVD2001 next, for comparison.

 

[MartinWT]

No, beryllium is a different element. It's used in my Usher tweeters and midranges, but I've not heard of it being used for conductors. Steer clear of rhodium contacts, it makes everything sound edgy and hyper-detailed but harsh. Gold plated is the best compromise, slightly worse conductivity than silver but impervious to oxidisation.

The Neotech NEVD-2001 is a superb cable, you will enjoy it.

 

[kingoftown1]

This may be helpful just in general for some. I know sometimes I forget which copper alloys are which when I'm connector shopping.

https://www.avoutlet.com/images/product/additional/f/iacs_of_metals_n_solder.pdf

 

[OCC7N]

Im like over excited for this build, knowing the Corsair AX1600i will feed the motherboard.

Beatechnik LPSU80VA(5V/7A dual)
These people have some of the highest service support I have experience. Informative, Price, and Delivery. Everything is on point. They even follow up on my order to see if I received according to trackingnumber. This LPSU will be powering JCAT and the AD CG X1 card

If this LPSU kicks Elites ass Im buying one for my Chord TT2 also!

Afterdark Constellation Giesemann X1
Anticipation has been high knowing this will be the third 75Ohm/10Mhz/Square card connecting my OCK-2.

Im in a really different place now of excitement because this was the whole reason for me starting in headfi. To build my own streamer. Now its happening!

The last PCIe card is not here yet but Im waiting to next week.

 

[Jake2]

Continuing the 75ohm silver cable theme I see Cybershaft now offer this one with top of the line Furutech BNCs.

And backing up Martin’s impressions with the Neotech 75 ohm silver one they note it sounds good with their 50 ohm clocks.

https://cybershaft.shop/products/75ohm-pure-silver-bnc-cable
At $189 assembled for a 0.5m ($235 for a 1m) for those not so confident going the DIY route if it performs similarly to the Neotech/HT Silver that’s not bad pricing, relative to most assembled pure silver cables. Noting it is silent as to OCC status so assume not.

Actually given the retail cost of those Furutechs is USD160 that is not bad value at all, assuming you put some store in the Furutechs being relevant to the cable’s’ performance.

 

[mooster1223]

I own a LHY OCK-2 and would like to add a new CD player to my system. I've found the Denafrips Avatar and it will accept a clock input. They list it as 75 ohm compatible. I'm using a Gustard A26 with the Gustard clock cable but I believe it's a 50 ohm cable. Will I need a new cable? Also, if I input the LHY OCK-2 into the denafrips and connect it to the A26 with a I2S cable, Will I get the true benefit of the external clock?

I've got the stuff but I don't fully understand the stuff...

 

[JaMo]

I own a LHY OCK-2 and would like to add a new CD player to my system. I've found the Denafrips Avatar and it will accept a clock input. They list it as 75 ohm compatible. I'm using a Gustard A26 with the Gustard clock cable but I believe it's a 50 ohm cable. Will I need a new cable? Also, if I input the LHY OCK-2 into the denafrips and connect it to the A26 with a I2S cable, Will I get the true benefit of the external clock?

I've got the stuff but I don't fully understand the stuff...

An very good sounding alternative is to get a previous owned Mint condition VRDS player from TEAC (from model 10 and up to get the best drive mechanism). Reclock it with an Audio-gd DI20 HE or a Mutec MC3/MC3+USB timed by the OCK-2. DI20HE is 50 Ohm and the Mutec MC3/MC3+USB is 75 Ohm on their master clock inputs.
If You find an old but working VRDS player, it may need some service (drive belt changes), but is totally worth that money if You don't have the confidence to do it Yourself. The belts are cheap but a bit fiddly to change them. I have done it, but I am a risk taker guy. High end performance for small money
/Jan

 

[DecentLevi]

I tried the copper foil tape hack on outside of BNC connectors (LMR-400 cable both ends) between my DDC and OCK-2 clock yesterday, thanks to mentions on other threads here. The improvement is staggering! Not only did it achieve exactly what I was hoping for, but it's the single biggest system improvement I've experienced in this hobby - in terms of smallest most simple tweaks! Treble is more palatable, lows are palpable and the realism is a force to be reckoned with.

I usually use silver Faraday Fabric Tape for these sort of things though I haven't tried it yet on this, being so pleased with the result. Though I would not want to squeeze that foil tape on too hard, save for another multi-hour chore of having to remove copper foil bit by tiny bit, because that stuff can become literally impossible to remove over time. This also goes to show how the BNC connectors on this and probably most is subpar BTW.

 

[dougms3]

I tried the copper foil tape hack on outside of BNC connectors (LMR300 cable both ends) between my DDC and OCK-2 clock yesterday, thanks to mentions on other threads here. The improvement is staggering! Not only did it achieve exactly what I was hoping for, but it's the single biggest system improvement I've experienced in this hobby - in terms of smallest most simple tweaks! Treble is more palatable, lows are palpable and the realism is a force to be reckoned with.

I usually use silver Faraday Fabric Tape for these sort of things though I haven't tried it yet on this, being so pleased with the result. Though I would not want to squeeze that foil tape on too hard, save for another multi-hour chore of having to remove copper foil bit by tiny bit, because that stuff can become literally impossible to remove over time. This also goes to show how the BNC connectors on this and probably most is subpar BTW.

What did you do exactly? Wrap copper tape along the length of the cable?

Pics?

 

[Jake2]

I tried the copper foil tape hack on outside of BNC connectors (LMR300 cable both ends) between my DDC and OCK-2 clock yesterday, thanks to mentions on other threads here. The improvement is staggering! Not only did it achieve exactly what I was hoping for, but it's the single biggest system improvement I've experienced in this hobby - in terms of smallest most simple tweaks! Treble is more palatable, lows are palpable and the realism is a force to be reckoned with.

I usually use silver Faraday Fabric Tape for these sort of things though I haven't tried it yet on this, being so pleased with the result. Though I would not want to squeeze that foil tape on too hard, save for another multi-hour chore of having to remove copper foil bit by tiny bit, because that stuff can become literally impossible to remove over time. This also goes to show how the BNC connectors on this and probably most is subpar BTW.

Awesome @DecentLevi , glad it worked as well for you as it did for me! In my case it clearly improved on the already excellent Harmonic Tech DC III. I've been using them like this for a month or so and been meaning to post it here too so thanks for doing so.

Here's my logic for trying it in the first place from my post in another thread.

I reckon replacing BNCs with screw style connectors would be beneficial, for sine at least (might cause impedance mismatch fun for square), as BNCs are not as RF-tight as a screw connection so almost certainly the shielding weak spot in end to end clock to DAC connection. Which I sorta tested by wrapping both ends of the BNC cables plug/socket junctions with copper foil tape with conductive adhesive and sure enough it improves the sound in the same manner a better clock cable does - even better dynamics, less glare, even more detail. I refer you to the 15dB delta in measured 1hz offset phase noise in that X26 pro chart I posted earlier between cable A and cable B. I reckon such taping or screw connectors could help in the order of 5dB or more

 

[mgsu]

I own a LHY OCK-2 and would like to add a new CD player to my system. I've found the Denafrips Avatar and it will accept a clock input. They list it as 75 ohm compatible. I'm using a Gustard A26 with the Gustard clock cable but I believe it's a 50 ohm cable. Will I need a new cable? Also, if I input the LHY OCK-2 into the denafrips and connect it to the A26 with a I2S cable, Will I get the true benefit of the external clock?

I've got the stuff but I don't fully understand the stuff...

Gustard C2 cable is rated for 50 & 75 Ohm

 

[Jake2]

I own a LHY OCK-2 and would like to add a new CD player to my system. I've found the Denafrips Avatar and it will accept a clock input. They list it as 75 ohm compatible. I'm using a Gustard A26 with the Gustard clock cable but I believe it's a 50 ohm cable. Will I need a new cable? Also, if I input the LHY OCK-2 into the denafrips and connect it to the A26 with a I2S cable, Will I get the true benefit of the external clock?

I've got the stuff but I don't fully understand the stuff...

As I suspected, as is typical for Denafrips clocks and clock inputs, it is not a standard 10MHz clock input - rather it takes only 22.5792Mhz / 45.1584Mhz clock signals. So the Avatar is not compatible with the OCK-2.

From my experience with how the K2 clock synthesiser works on the R26, assuming it is the same with the A26, although it might seem counterintuitive you should get a nice benefit from connecting the OCK-2 to the A26 alone, even when it is fed a synchronous signal like I2S or s/pdif (which contains a word clock signal) from a source like a CD player or in my case the U18 DDC. This is irrespective of whether NOS is on or off.

 

[mooster1223]

As I suspected, as is typical for Denafrips clocks and clock inputs, it is not a standard 10MHz clock input - rather it takes only 22.5792Mhz / 45.1584Mhz clock signals. So the Avatar is not compatible with the OCK-2.

From my experience with how the K2 clock synthesiser works on the R26, assuming it is the same with the A26, although it might seem counterintuitive you should get a nice benefit from connecting the OCK-2 to the A26 alone, even when it is fed a synchronous signal like I2S or s/pdif (which contains a word clock signal) from a source like a CD player or in my case the U18 DDC. This is irrespective of whether NOS is on or off.

Thanks for the info on the Avatar clock input. I've been looking for an "affordable" transport that I can re clock with the LHY and thought I'd lucked into this one.