[No Deal]

So far, HT cable is still the best to my chain!

Ditto!

 

[piguetpolo]

To stay coherent with the price of my OCK-1 but make sure I get the maximum of it, I ordered a Messi & Paoloni cable (equivalent in quality to Times Microwave, custom made in 0.6m). I will compare sine vs square and this new cable with the one from LHY.

Which M&P cable are you getting? I got the Hyperflex 5 and have been really happy with it. Good balance and detail.

The Harmonic Technology Digital Copper III BNC I've been hearing about here does peak my curiosity due to the OCC copper process and one day I might try it. Just not felt the rush based on the current performance of the M&P.

 

[Zaurux]

I'm waiting for an M&P Hyperflex 10 and 60cm. I hope it is as flexible as the Hyper-5. I hesitated but chose the maximum protection.

 

[OCC7N]

Im still looking for a pcie card with clock input 50 or 75Ohm does not matter, but I found this with a different type of connector
https://www.masterclock.com/cmss_files/attachmentlibrary/Datasheets/PCIe-GPS-Data-Sheet-2023.pdf

Im interested in the OXCO. Buying an adapter for BNC would be enough because it is 10Mhz input right?

 

[Jandu]

Im still looking for a pcie card with clock input 50 or 75Ohm does not matter, but I found this with a different type of connector
https://www.masterclock.com/cmss_files/attachmentlibrary/Datasheets/PCIe-GPS-Data-Sheet-2023.pdf

Im interested in the OXCO. Buying an adapter for BNC would be enough because it is 10Mhz input right?

It contains an internal, TCXO or OXCO, clock. I don't think it takes external clock. Nor does it export its clock signal. It is used, I believe, to syn the PC's clock to a higher accuracy. The connector is for the GPS antenna, at least that's what it looks like to me.

 

[OCC7N]

It contains an internal, TCXO or OXCO, clock. I don't think it takes external clock. Nor does it export its clock signal. It is used, I believe, to syn the PC's clock to a higher accuracy. The connector is for the GPS antenna, at least that's what it looks like to me.

Thanks! I would really appreciate if I could be guided to find a pcie card that can receive clock from ock-2

 

[joenetic]

Thanks! I would really appreciate if I could be guided to find one

Thank you!! I tested, you are correct!

 

[OCC7N]

Thank you!! I tested, you are correct!

I talked with Masterclock the brand. They were really helpful with quick service

It does not support the LHY OCK-2. It only support there own generator.

 

[russellbobby]

Just pulled the trigger on a 2 week old LHY OCK-2. Will be here waiting for me when I get back from Axpona. Hope it plays nice with EtheRegen>Bricasti M3 setup.

 

[ChJL]

I also have OCK-1 bought on Ali and I still say that it was worth buying for this money.
But in my system OCK-1 connected to R7HE MK2 + DI20HE is inferior to Gustard C18.
I ordered the OCK-2 also on Ali, we'll see how the OCK-2 vs Gustard C18 comparison will come out in my system, I've been waiting two weeks for shipping.
The only thing I don't understand is why Alvin cuts himself off from the clocks sold on Ali?
I will try to make a visual comparison and measurements of two OCK-2 clocks in the future, one of mine bought on Ali and the other friend will order from Alvin and then everything will be known.

I'm curious since you @nikko510 haven't posted anything after this entry almost a month ago...
What about C18 vs OCK-2?

Anyone ever tried Gustard's C18-U18-X26pro (or other), full Gustard, possibly good synergy if designed as one, right?

 

[Highfive99]

I'm curious since you @nikko510 haven't posted anything after this entry almost a month ago...
What about C18 vs OCK-2?

Anyone ever tried Gustard's C18-U18-X26pro (or other), full Gustard, possibly good synergy if designed as one, right?

Given the nice bump in SQ the OCK-1 gave my system, I would find it hard to cost justify a C18 unless there was a drastic improvement over the OCK-1 which I doubt there is.

 

[nikko510]

OCK-2 hasn't reached me yet, plus at least a month of burning.
I couldn't wait for three weeks to ship the clock so I gave up and bought it from another seller.
In my system, the Gustard C18 is much better than the OCK-1, I even compared it again recently.

 

[OCC7N]

Hi all,
A bit OT maybe but it is closely related to clocking, so I will continue to write anyway.

This morning I decided to change the impedance of my DI20HE. As You know the DI20/HE is sold with a 50 Ohm impedance as default on the 10MHz EXT XO input.

I have the Mutec REF10 SE120 in my main rig and it has 2 x 50 Ohm and 6 x 75 Ohm outputs. I have too many gears as some of You may know. I had the chance to get a R7HE Mk2 digital board with 75 Ohm 10MHZ input. Beside that one I have:
1 x DI20HE - 50 Ohm
1 x Mutec MC3+USB - 75 Ohm
1 x Gustard U18 - 75 Ohm (custom)
1 x Gustard X26 Pro - 50 Ohm

So as You can see the two 50 Ohm outputs are populated. And only three out of the six 75 Ohm outputs are populated. I always want to have margins so I wanted to free up one 50 Ohm output on the REF 10, for something else.

Said and done. The DI was in focus. I spotted the impedance resistor. It is marked "062" and is a SMD resistor of just below 50 Ohm. I had a high quality 75 Ohm circuit board connector laying. It had the same connector pinning but a wider diameter through the back plate and a thick distance "heel" before the thread started. I used the lathe to cut down the heel to the other BNC connectors heel-thickness. Brotched up the hole in the back plate to make a good fit.

On the DI I removed the top lid and back plate. Unscrewed the nuts and washers on all the coax connectors. I also unscrewed the corner pole near the power inlet to get better access to do the work. I disconnected the two cables that connect the back plate to the circuit board. Then I loosened the circuit board, flipped it up and covered the surrounding electronics with a towel. Pretty high temperature ~420 grC (80W Weller pen) and I use copper braid with flux to sifon up the melted solder tin from each pin (5 of them).

Pretty high temperature (375-400 grC) also on the SMD resistor to remove it safely.

Now to the fun part. I soldered in the 75 Ohm BNC connector and gathered out/selected the best measured 75 Ohm resistor I could find and it measure 75,000 Ohm (!) so I can't complain.

I soldered it in on the bottom, between the pins of the "new" BNC connector. I then put back the circuit board with loose screws (board floating). Then put the corner pole back with loose screws. Then the backplate. Washer and nuts for the coax. Tighten up when everything is in place. When the top lid is back on the screws for the backplate and side can be tightened as well.

It works like a charm and I am pleased to have one 50 Ohm output and two 75 Ohm outputs free on the REF10
/Jan

ps. If You are about to give this treat I attached a pic of the location of the "062" impedance resistor. In the yellow ring./J

To let off some stressfull fights with my subconscious.

I ordered 75 clock input, the resistor you are highlighting is that the 75Ohm? - that defines the clock input.

Mine says 750 at 62 and 75R0 at 73(spdif)

Im gonna be sure so I took some pictures

 

[MartinWT]

750 means 75 with zero following zeros, so 75 ohms.

 

[OCC7N]

750 means 75 with zero following zeros, so 75 ohms.

Ok on the 73 it says 75R0(spdif) the same?