[JRG1990]

The fuse wasn't blown , it's a t3.15a slow blow glass fuse , the z2300 uses a t2a slow blow glass, in my s730 i replaced it with a hifi-tuning t3.15a slow blow uk gold 2 ceramic  a nice improvement, my s730 has some modifications, i replaced the tinned copper speaker cable for pure copper cable (qed 42) , put a ferrite clamp on the remote cable, replaced the stock power cord for a mark grant dsp1.0 cord and of corse replaced the fuse, my set-up is laptop > lindy premium sheilded usb cable > m-audio audiophile usb (runs from conditioned power) > bettercables.com silver serpent coax cable > s730 , even default i never fault it sounded grainey i don't know what set-up hardwarezone was using, i don't know where to find sound quality measurements for it and i don't have the equipment to make any, the best i could do is a video demo.

 

[RishiGuru]

Quote:

The fuse wasn't blown , it's a t3.15a slow blow glass fuse , the z2300 uses a t2a slow blow glass, in my s730 i replaced it with a hifi-tuning t3.15a slow blow uk gold 2 ceramic  a nice improvement, my s730 has some modifications, i replaced the tinned copper speaker cable for pure copper cable (qed 42) , put a ferrite clamp on the remote cable, replaced the stock power cord for a mark grant dsp1.0 cord and of corse replaced the fuse, my set-up is laptop > lindy premium sheilded usb cable > m-audio audiophile usb (runs from conditioned power) > bettercables.com silver serpent coax cable > s730 , even default i never fault it sounded grainey i don't know what set-up hardwarezone was using, i don't know where to find sound quality measurements for it and i don't have the equipment to make any, the best i could do is a video demo.

Thanks for your reply. Good upgrades though.
 
Remember at least for speakers "you give garbage, you get garbage". If the amplifier is below par, no matter how much gold you have used in the fuse or how better your cables are, they will equate to "garbage sound quality".
 
You need to have a good amp first, the rest follows. How can you invest in S-730 if you know nothing about its sound quality?
 
Ok, if I find any info regarding S-730 I will let you know.

 

[JRG1990]

I know everything about it's sound quality, because i have the system and listen to it everyday tells me alot more than any graph can, i just wanted to experment with cables and things there so much debate about them on this forum i just wanted to try things for myself and since the edifier s730 is my primary sound system and i know the sound quality well i tried out the upgrades on it, and it responds very well to power upgrades fuses and power cords, i will soon be replacing the s730 and creating my own 2.1 system, so far all i have a source my fiio combo or m-audio audiophile usb and a alesis ra300 amp i just need some passive speakers and a sub.

 

[RishiGuru]

Quote:

I know everything about it's sound quality, because i have the system and listen to it everyday tells me alot more than any graph can, i just wanted to experment with cables and things there so much debate about them on this forum i just wanted to try things for myself and since the edifier s730 is my primary sound system and i know the sound quality well i tried out the upgrades on it, and it responds very well to power upgrades fuses and power cords, i will soon be replacing the s730 and creating my own 2.1 system, so far all i have a source my fiio combo or m-audio audiophile usb and a alesis ra300 amp i just need some passive speakers and a sub.

 

I find sound to be subjective. That's the beauty of it. It is also terrible since their is no definitive standard. All is subjective & there is nothing as "bad sound" or "good sound". Every person just have his own views and standards. 
 
On the other hand "sound quality" is objective. There is no beauty or creativity in it. But you have definitive standards by which you can measure "sound quality". Frequency response, noise level, dynamic range, THD, IMD+ noise, SNR, stereo crosstalk etc of a speaker set give you the indication of its "sound quality". It has nothing to do with "what feels great in your ears".
 
Generally in audio forum members talk about "sound" subjectively. Or better put you are talking about the "subjective preference" of S-730 over the other. How much of your "subjective preference" is going to work for others is a different matter.
 
Their is a high probability that a system with good "sound quality" will sound good in your ears. The same cannot be said about "subjective preference of sound". What sound "great in his ears" may sound just OK "in your ears".
 
To buy a audio system without knowing anything about its "sound quality" and blindly choosing the one that sounds the "best in your ears" is what I will call an impulsive buy.
 
So, in the end I think it is better to pick a few from a herd of similar audio systems based on their better "sound quality" over the others, all belonging to a certain price range, and then only perform your "subjective preference of sound" on each of the selected few in order to find out the winner.
 
Remember though what wins for you may not win for others.

 

[JRG1990]

Ok i draw a frequence responce for the s730 from what i know and hear sub responces 40hz-130hz then rolls off probley at least a -3db drop around 140hz, bookshelfs go 160hz - 20khz, this is a rough estimate human hear can only detect -3db drops and gains. i drew the edifiers responce on in black i'm not claiming it's 100% spot on , but it's at least 65% correct.

 

[RishiGuru]

     Quote:

Ok i draw a frequence responce for the s730 from what i know and hear sub responces 40hz-130hz then rolls off probley at least a -3db drop around 140hz, bookshelfs go 160hz - 20khz, this is a rough estimate human hear can only detect -3db drops and gains. i drew the edifiers responce on in black i'm not claiming it's 100% spot on , but it's at least 65% correct.

That's what I love about you JRG1990. You always try your best to help others. In other words you contribute to this forum. I greatly appreciate your helping hand. Right or wrong is a different matter.
 
Thanks for your graph. I will try to find a more authentic one and provide you the info if I can.

 

[JRG1990]

I've found the edifier s530 frequence responce graph.
 
 

 
heres the s730 sub & bookshelfs

 

[Suedehead]

I really want to go ahead and pull the trigger on a set of Z-2300s.  The reviews and opinions found here and at other sites have been both favorable and unfavorable.  I am pretty much sold on the system except for one thing and that is the mid to upper level sound quality when used for music playback.  These speakers will be used primarily for music using a Tube Magic D1 external DAC to convert digital MP3s to analog from my PC.  Being a fan of heavy metal, will I be disappointed with the mid bass, mid range and treble from this set of Logitechs?  All of the positive reviews out there seem to rave about the level and quality of bass that is produced by this system.  Now don't get me wrong, I love loud, thundering bass just like everyone else, however, there is little talk of how clean and powerful the mids and highs are that are so prominent in the music I enjoy.  I have a hard time understanding that this could be produced by a small full range speaker instead of a tweeter/mid range setup similar to the Promedia 2.1s which I have also considered.  If I decide on the Z-2300s will the quality of my music suffer? Should I go instead with a system like the Promedias that seem to have better satellite speakers?

 

[JRG1990]

The upper midrange and highs ok on the z2300, it's the midrange and low midrange that suffers , the midrange is pretty much non existant the 2.5" can not provide enough punch to effectivly produce it therefore the sound of kickdrums for example suffers, the low-mids are handled more by the sub making them very muddy sounding you will be disappointed, your best option would be the edifier s530 as you can see from the frequence responce graph above the midrange doesn't dip as much as the logitechs, and the bookshelfs have seperate 3.25" midrange drivers making the midrange alot more present and clear.

 

[BlackbeardBen]

Quote:

I really want to go ahead and pull the trigger on a set of Z-2300s.  The reviews and opinions found here and at other sites have been both favorable and unfavorable.  I am pretty much sold on the system except for one thing and that is the mid to upper level sound quality when used for music playback.  These speakers will be used primarily for music using a Tube Magic D1 external DAC to convert digital MP3s to analog from my PC.  Being a fan of heavy metal, will I be disappointed with the mid bass, mid range and treble from this set of Logitechs?  All of the positive reviews out there seem to rave about the level and quality of bass that is produced by this system.  Now don't get me wrong, I love loud, thundering bass just like everyone else, however, there is little talk of how clean and powerful the mids and highs are that are so prominent in the music I enjoy.  I have a hard time understanding that this could be produced by a small full range speaker instead of a tweeter/mid range setup similar to the Promedia 2.1s which I have also considered.  If I decide on the Z-2300s will the quality of my music suffer? Should I go instead with a system like the Promedias that seem to have better satellite speakers?

Okay, so I had a huge long write-up here that got entirely wiped out when my computer got stuck between "awake" and "sleep" modes and Firefox felt the need to not restore any of my tabs when I finally restarted my computer...
 
Anyway, the gist of it is that you already have a pretty good receiver, so why not get a pair of real bookshelf speakers?  You'll be unsatisfied with the Z-2300 if you've ever heard a decent pair of speakers or headphones.  Virtually anything you get will outperform the Z-2300 in mids and highs, and will certainly provide tighter, more accurate (if not as loud) bass.
 
Component systems are a whole lot more versatile - it's easy to upgrade just one part if you're unsatisfied, without wasting the whole system.  Bass not tight enough or loud enough?  Add a sub or get a better one.  Want better speakers?  Get better speakers and use the same receiver and sub.  Need more or cleaner power?  Get a better receiver/amplifier.  (You won't need more power for near-field listening, but the point remains the same.)
 
There's a whole lot of options for under $250, especially if you consider used speakers (look on Craigslist).  But even for new speakers there are plenty of excellent choices.
 
I had a whole linked list before, but you should be able to search for these yourself.  This is just a start, what I found with only a little effort - there's plenty of other excellent models out there as well.
 
$250: Mordaunt-Short Carnival 2
$250: Audioengine P4
$205: Tangent EVO E5 (incl. shipping from eBay)
$200: MTX Monitor 60i
$155: Tangent EVO E4 (incl. shipping from eBay)
$130: Polk Monitor 40 (often on sale for less on Newegg)
$90: Polk Monitor 30 (also often on sale for less on Newegg)
 
And my favorite of them all in this price range, the $35 Dayton B652.  At a measly $35 it already far outperforms the Logitech in mids, highs, and imaging, and they have much tighter (however, less extended of course) bass.  The more expensive speakers are better, yes, but the Daytons are so inexpensive that it's worth trying them first, I think.  In fact, since you already have a receiver I think it's a crime not to!
 
Their bass is surprisingly full - no, they're not full range floorstanders, but they are still very good without a subwoofer.  The great thing is that since they're part of a normal component stereo system, if you're not satisfied with the bass you can just get a subwoofer...  With any 2.1 multimedia system you're stuck with what you've got unless you start modding - and even so, modding component speakers and subwoofers is much, much easier (and more fruitful).
 
Oh, and the 8" Dayton sub is only $100 and would go well with the B652.  That's $135 total, essentially the same price as the Logitech system but superior in every way imaginable.  If I got a sub though, I'd go for the 12" Dayton one myself - it's only $60 more and is definitely a huge step up in performance.
 
Now, I'd suggest to go with one of the more expensive bookshelf speakers if you want even better performance, but since you're looking at 2.1 media systems the B652 is hard to pass up if you've already got a receiver.

 

[Suedehead]

JRG - Thanks for replying.  It does sound like the mids are going to suffer on this unit.  I have also considered the edifiers or the Swan M50s as an alternate as well, although they cost a lot more.  It looks as if I want superior sound quality, I will have to shell out the bucks.
 
Blackbeard - Thank you for your detailed post.  The DAC that I mentioned does not include an amplifier or I would definitely pick up a pair of shelf speakers like you mentioned.  I may still go that route as Parts Express has some inexpensive receivers that would work well with my DAC.  As you mentioned, this would give me great sound and probably cost less than multimedia systems such as the Edifiers or Swans mentioned above.  The downside would be more space taken up on my desktop for the sake of sound quality!
 
Thanks again.

 

[BlackbeardBen]

Quote:

JRG - Thanks for replying.  It does sound like the mids are going to suffer on this unit.  I have also considered the edifiers or the Swan M50s as an alternate as well, although they cost a lot more.  It looks as if I want superior sound quality, I will have to shell out the bucks.
 
Blackbeard - Thank you for your detailed post.  The DAC that I mentioned does not include an amplifier or I would definitely pick up a pair of shelf speakers like you mentioned.  I may still go that route as Parts Express has some inexpensive receivers that would work well with my DAC.  As you mentioned, this would give me great sound and probably cost less than multimedia systems such as the Edifiers or Swans mentioned above.  The downside would be more space taken up on my desktop for the sake of sound quality!
 
Thanks again.

Well, do you have the Yamaha RXV 570 receiver you mention in your profile or not?  That's what I'm referring to.  It would work fine - but (assuming you do in fact have it) are you using it where you wouldn't/couldn't use it with your computer then?

 

[Suedehead]

Yes, I do have that receiver.  However it is part of my home theater for the time being.

 

[milkpowder]

Just stumbled on this thread.  Thanks for the in-depth look/review.  I have a pair sitting on my desk and never really thought about opening up to see what's inside, let alone look up all the specs, etc.  Well done.  They're decent multimedia speakers.  The bass is powerful, but flabby compared to good headphones/speakers. Good oomph

That said, the sound signature is pretty pleasing to my ears.  When I first bought them I thought the mids were a tad dry and if anything, recessed.  The highs aren't quite as sparkling as that of high-end speakers, but then again this 2.1 set costs less than what some manufacturers spend on binding posts.

  A few year down the line, I'm used to the sound. Decent, but definitely not for analytical listening.  I'll take a pair of Sonus Faber Guarneri over these anytime

 

[RishiGuru]

Quote:

I may still go that route as Parts Express has some inexpensive receivers that would work well with my DAC.  As you mentioned, this would give me great sound and probably cost less than multimedia systems such as the Edifiers or Swans mentioned above.  The downside would be more space taken up on my desktop for the sake of sound quality!
 
Thanks again.

 
I avoid Dayton audio products. They quality of engineering & craftsmanship is not upto the mark. They normally recall a lot of their products. Look below at their latest recall:
 
Quote:

Consumer Product Safety Alert

At Parts Express, our efforts are continuous and on-going to ensure that the products we sell are not only an excellent value, but are also safe and reliable. As a result of those efforts, we have identified the following models to contain amplifier modules that have the potential to produce extreme heat, smoke, or fire:

Dayton SUB-100 HT Series 10" 125 Watt Powered Subwoofer (SKU # 300-633 & 888-632)
Dayton SUB-120 HT Series 12" 150 Watt Powered Subwoofer (SKU # 300-635 & 888-634)
Dayton Audio Speaker Bar and 10" Subwoofer Package (SKU # 300-637)
Dayton Audio Speaker Bar and Subwoofer Package (SKU # 300-638)
Dayton HTP-2 5.1 Home Theater Package 10" Powered Subwoofer (SKU # 300-694)
Dayton HTP-3 5.1 Home Theater Package 12" Powered Subwoofer (SKU # 300-696)
Replacement Sub Amp (SKU # 000-RET1)

While the quality issue is known to have affected less than 0.5% of our total units purchased between June 30, 2010 and January 15, 2011, we believe units with serial #'s 0608010101 thru 0608010500 require an upgrade. If you possess an amplifier purchased in this time frame, immediately unplug the unit to eliminate any risk of danger, regardless of whether you notice any problems with the unit or not. If you purchased this unit for resell, please contact your customer to have the unit's serial # checked. To check the serial # of your unit, view HT100-120 Amplifier Removal Procedure

.

We have identified an over-heating issue in the amplifier module of the sub. This heating issue can occur at any time that the amplifier is plugged into a wall outlet, whether it is actually in use or not. Problem over-heating of the amplifier is usually accompanied by a very noticeable "hum" coming from the subwoofer's speaker. If left powered, it is possible for the metal "plate" and heat sink (cooling fins) of the amplifier to become hot enough to cause a minor burn to the skin, and in extreme cases, the possibility of the unit to produce smoke or fire.

The resolution requires an upgrade of 2 transistors, performed by a qualified technician, inside the amplifier module of the subwoofer. If your serial # is within the range noted above, it will require the upgrade.

If your amplifier serial # is within the range noted above, call us immediately. Within one business day we will ship an upgraded amplifier module directly to you at no charge along with a postage-paid return label. After you receive and replace the amplifier module, please put the old amplifier module in the box in which the replacement module was shipped, attach the provided return shipping label to the box, and hand it to any Fed Ex driver or drop it off at any Fed Ex Kinko’s shipping location. Plus, as a courtesy, we will automatically extend the modified amplifier warranty for an additional 1 year.
 

  
Here is how to find the serial number: http://www.parts-express.com/pdf/HT100-120_Amplifier_Procedure.pdf
 
It proves Dayton does not have the necessary simulation & test gear to test their products for extreme conditions. The question remains that if the quality of craftsmanship is so poor, how do you expect them to have good sound quality?