[Emon]

Lash splicing technique.

I've used this technique a few times. The data on NASA's site is primarily regarding tensile strength, which doesn't really matter much for audio equipment, but when you're soldering wire onto a connector's provided solder tabs and the loop holes are too small or don't exist, this method provides a strong structural bond that isn't as nearly subject to creeping over time. It also makes it easier to splice any wire - just tightly over lash the wire onto the connections before soldering or tinning and you've got a fairly hands and error free method of splicing.

Did some searching on this subject and nothing came up so I figured I'd let some fellow DIYers know of a better technique.

 

[headchange4u]

That looks like a good method. If it's good enough for NASA....

I do think it would be a little hard trying to wind wire around the tabs of a connector.

 

[Emon]

Well it could, depending on the size of the connector and wire used for over lashing. Also depends on how good your are with your hands and pliers.

 

[Garbz]

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If it is good enough for nasa...

Not to be bitchy but Nordost wire is good enough for NASA too, and that crap sounds nasty!

 

[MisterX]

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Did some searching on this subject and nothing came up so I figured I'd let some fellow DIYers know of a better technique.

Better then what?

The next question is:
Why bother when the standard western union/Lineman Splice doesn't require any "bus" wire ?

 

[Emon]

Doesn't work well for mid-wire splices, doesn't work on low guage wire or when exposing several inches of wire for twisting is clumbsy and huge. Also doesn't work on solder tabs. Lash splicing is nice on tabs when the loop holes aren't the right size or just don't cut it.

 

[MisterX]

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Doesn't work well for mid-wire splices

Oh, dammn I guess you got me there.
Of course I have never seen a reason for a "mid-wire" splice to begin with so.......

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doesn't work on low gauge wire or when exposing several inches of wire for twisting is clumsy and huge

Take two pieces of 24 gauge wire, strip the insulation off the ends.
lash them together with a piece of 30 gauge wire using no tools.... you got ten seconds.
Want to tell me again about a "better" splicing method that is not clumsy and works "better" with small gauge wire?

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Lash splicing is nice on tabs when the loop holes aren't the right size or just don't cut it.

Let's try a new test.
Bust out a Panasonic EVJ pot and some 22 and 30 gauge wire.
Strip the ends off the 22 gauge wire and lash the wires to the solder tabs on the pot with the 30 gauge wire.
I will even let you use tools this time.
You have ten minutes to complete it.

I think I need more convincing because your so called "better method" doesn't look so much better then the method I have been using for the last 25 years.

 

[Garbz]

Jeesh we are a opinionated buch. What's better for some might not be for others. At the very least the Lash splice looks like a very neat way to get wires onto pins, despite the time it takes. But when your running a billion dollar space program the last thing you want is a loose wire to wreck your day so the 10min may be worthwhile.

Personally I hold them on with helping hands and blast them with solder till they stick. Sure there are better methods but I don't expect my amps to survive poweron let alone a nuclear fallout

 

[Emon]

Erm, lash splicing is really quick if you tin and stick the wires (like a normal lap splice) and THEN wrap the wire around it. You'd need three hands, maybe four, to do it before tinning, which I didn't realize would be so difficult in my first post. Doing it before tinning or soldering is just nice because the joint slips less when soldering, and results in less solder between the wires, which is a stronger splice. However most of us don't need to meet strict requirements, so lash splicing is just a good way to prevent creeping.

Also, mid wire splices are pretty common depending on the application. Audio just isn't one of them.

 

[rickcr42]

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Not to be bitchy but Nordost wire is good enough for NASA too, and that crap sounds nasty!

same old story and one I am alswys going on about.

something may be good electronically,a great solution in the test equipment or electronice circuit arena,measure well but this is AUDIO and what measures well or works great in another arena does not always translate into good sound.

99.9% of my long running dialogs in the DIY forum are me coming from me designing for what sounds good with those who design for specs ad electronic theory.The are notr inerchangable and a great on paper design more often than not sounds like crap.

To the original topic :

Why on earth would anyone here even consider splicing an audio cable ?
This is a forum where members argue over which connector sounds better or which wire has the best sound and even at times on the audibility of solder/no solder on signal cables.
Do any really think this would not be an audible "solution" to extending cable length ?

I go out of my way to minimize all metal from jack to jack (actual plug metal,wire diameter,solder,etc) and could not conceive of any situation where I would even consider adding a big "glob" right in the middle of a signal carrying interconnector..........Maybe camping out in the wilderness

and it is this or no music but otherwise................

 

[nikongod]

rick:

this does not apply ONLY to the audio chain.

the cap-bank on my tube amp would have been IMPOSSIBLE to make if i had not used this technique. i have 6 wires all soldered together allong about 2" of power wire.... naturally to hook several slightly small 28uf film caps topgether to make one pimping 168uf film cap.

i did try to solder it all together (spaced out about 1/4") and every time i got to a new cap the one previos could come off. this totally saved my arse.

i know there are other ways to connect many caps (probably some stuff made jsut for that) but that would require spending money.,

i do agree that splices in the signal path are not great, but in the psu it makes things sooooooooooo (add a fiew o's) easy and secure.

 

[Emon]

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Originally Posted by rickcr42 Why on earth would anyone here even consider splicing an audio cable? This is a forum where members argue over which connector sounds better or which wire has the best sound and even at times on the audibility of solder/no solder on signal cables.

Last I checked, there's more soldering in audio than just on cables. I also just posted since someone might find it useful for SOMETHING DIY. Also, I realize this is a forum where members argue over which connector sounds better, wire sound or if solder affects sound. But me, I know that's all ********, and I post for the few that ALSO know that's ********.

Edit: I didn't mean to offend anyone who uses fat aftermarket cables. If you like them, that's fine.

 

[mono]

I use this technique all the time and it does fine- though I don't use such low-gauge wrapping wire, I take transformer windings and burn off the enamel with one of those gas fireplace lighters then slide it through some fine wet/dry.

It does seem a very reliable connection though I emphasize what the linked article mentioned- to limit flexing in that region. I usually use 2 x heatshrink over such connections.

 

[Emon]

Hmm, true about the flexing. It might be wise to extend the wrapping a centimeter or two past the splice to help support it.

 

[rickcr42]

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this does not apply ONLY to the audio chain. the cap-bank on my tube amp would have been IMPOSSIBLE to make if i had not used this technique. i have 6 wires all soldered together allong about 2" of power wire.... naturally to hook several slightly small 28uf film caps topgether to make one pimping 168uf film cap.

no way there was no other option than "lashing" wires.that makes zero sense .Bad design maybe but not only not the only way but not the best way.

treat power like your audio.wire counts as does method.

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Last I checked, there's more soldering in audio than just on cables. I also just posted since someone might find it useful for SOMETHING DIY. Also, I realize this is a forum where members argue over which connector sounds better, wire sound or if solder affects sound. But me, I know that's all ********, and I post for the few that ALSO know that's ********.

and you are warned to watch your attitude and language.This is #1 !

Yes there is solder in audio but the weak link of ANY system is the point A to Point B transmission of signal.Everytthing from the connectors to the intevening wire has consequences or we would all be very happy using radio shack interconnects and would have no need to upgrade.Adding this in the middle of and signal transmissio line would not be a good idea.I am sorry you have a problem with someone having a different opinion that yours but keep it civil and keep it on topic or take it somewhere else.

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I use this technique all the time and it does fine- though I don't use such low-gauge wrapping wire, I take transformer windings and burn off the enamel with one of those gas fireplace lighters then slide it through some fine wet/dry. It does seem a very reliable connection though I emphasize what the linked article mentioned- to limit flexing in that region. I usually use 2 x heatshrink over such connections.

i would contend there is a difference between audibly fine and mechanically fine.

yes,this is a solid contact and one that is most likely stronger than the original but just like you try to avoid using series connected cables due to the additional plugs and jacks being added between the signal output and the input of the next stage it is best to avoid and log jam of this type in the middle if at all possible.

In the field or during a live performance it may be an essentiual method to get the job done but in the home system a very lazy method if you care at all about signal integrity when the "fix" is to just get a longer cable with the only "weak points" at the ends,the plugs.where they belong......