~Koss KSC75 Resistor MOD~
Mar 16, 2016 at 4:07 AM Thread Starter Post #1 of 16

UnbiasedHeretic

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Hello, I recently bought a few Koss KSC75 Ear-Clips/Ear-Phones/Headphones. I have bought a bunch of materials to MOD them to the fullest. However, the only MOD I am having trouble with is the resistor MOD. I know it's suppose to be a 75 Ohm resistor & preferably the "Allen Bradley" version. The problem I'm having is how I do it because I tried to find pictures but unfortunately there is so many dead links. Also, I know there's two wires for each driver & I'm wondering if each wire needs a resistor. If anyone has any pictures to help me out, I will greatly appreciate it. Also, to go off topic a bit, I was wondering if I can do the same resistor MOD with the MonoPrice 8323. I apologize for the newbie questions because I'm a novice.
 
Mar 16, 2016 at 11:44 AM Post #2 of 16
I've messed around with resistor mods in the past, and the only real-world difference you get is a higher resistance.
If that's the goal I wish you luck, but if you're trying to change the sound with resistors you'll probably be disappointed since the differences are almost negligible. 
 
These mods were a lot more popular when cheaper amps were noisier and sensitive headphones could easily pick up background hiss.
Nowadays this is much less of an issue so these resistor mods are becoming less popular.
 
Especially with resistor adapters becoming more popular: (for example)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ETYMOTIC-ER4P-TO-ER4S-RESISTOR-ADAPTOR-3-5MM-PLUG-/291329605627
 
You may just want to try one of these out instead?
 
Mar 16, 2016 at 12:06 PM Post #3 of 16
No you wouldn't want a resistor in the path at all. It will raise the impedance of your load and that will result in worse sound quality.

Edit unless you are trying to atteunate by increasing resistance. It will make everything lower in volume also making the impedance bump at 100hz less prominent. If your amplifier can handle a higher load it will be a little more bassy at 100hz but you'll need to turn up the volume more. Your koss gets to 100ohms at 100hz and levels at 60ohms at other frequencies. I'd say start at 20ohms if you want more bass and keep inceasing the ohms if it isn't enough. don't go past 80ohms it's pointless after that.

I still think its dumb to do it the ksc75 has schitty bass anyways.
 
Mar 16, 2016 at 3:17 PM Post #4 of 16
  I've messed around with resistor mods in the past, and the only real-world difference you get is a higher resistance.
If that's the goal I wish you luck, but if you're trying to change the sound with resistors you'll probably be disappointed since the differences are almost .

 
The person who done it in the past did it on a Koss KCS75, the person provided how they did it with pictures but all the links are dead now & the person provided a graph but unfortunately that link is dead too. The person mentioned that the resistor helped cleaned up the bass by making it less muddy. The person also typed about how you can noticed the difference more with an amp. All I know is that you're suppose to solder the resistor(s) in parallel for each driver & near the driver. Also, I don't know if it's a resistor for each cable for a single driver (a total of two resistors for each driver that connects to both cables) or a single resistor for each driver (I don't know if it would be the left or right cable for each driver).
 
Mar 16, 2016 at 5:30 PM Post #5 of 16
Well, if you're going to do it (and I can't stop you), you want to put ONE 75 ohm resistor on the signal cable, that connects to the driver, NOT the ground/return signal cable. 
 
Mar 16, 2016 at 6:11 PM Post #6 of 16
  Well, if you're going to do it (and I can't stop you), you want to put ONE 75 ohm resistor on the signal cable, that connects to the driver, NOT the ground/return signal cable. 

Thank you very much for the help & I greatly appreciate it. My last questions are, is it the left-side or the right-side of a single driver that's the ground? Also, is the ground on the same side of both speakers? Thanks again & in advance!
 
Mar 16, 2016 at 6:16 PM Post #7 of 16
Just use that resistor plug some guy linked at ebay. Yeah I know more expensive than the KSC75 itself lol.
 
Mar 16, 2016 at 7:13 PM Post #9 of 16
Seriously, buy 2x 75ohm resistor just get a cheap and small low wattage resistor. Cut your cord near the plug, soldier one 75 ohm resistor to the left wire/channel effectively bridging it do the same for the other wire right channel, just know the black wire usually means the ground so don't put the resistor there. Then just soldier the ground back together you don't need resistors on the ground. After soldering wrap electrical tape around the area.
 

 
Mar 16, 2016 at 8:28 PM Post #10 of 16
Thank you for all the useful information & I will keep this in mind for sure. Many thanks! Oh yeah, I was going to put heat shrink tubing but I will follow your advice instead & I will put the electrical tape.
 
Mar 17, 2016 at 4:51 AM Post #11 of 16
  Seriously, buy 2x 75ohm resistor just get a cheap and small low wattage resistor. Cut your cord near the plug, soldier one 75 ohm resistor to the left wire/channel effectively bridging it do the same for the other wire right channel, just know the black wire usually means the ground so don't put the resistor there. Then just soldier the ground back together you don't need resistors on the ground. After soldering wrap electrical tape around the area.

+1 for this.
Modifying near the plug is much easier than messing around with these tiny headphones.
I think there are even some plugs that are large enough to house small resistors, however these high-end plugs (designed to house very thick cables) aren't cheap either 
redface.gif

 
Mar 17, 2016 at 5:31 PM Post #12 of 16
I wasn't worried about
  +1 for this.
Modifying near the plug is much easier than messing around with these tiny headphones.
I think there are even some plugs that are large enough to house small resistors, however these high-end plugs (designed to house very thick cables) aren't cheap either 
redface.gif

I wasn't worried about the cost at all, I already bought some gold plated plugs, & I need to work on my soldering skills anyways. Originally, for one of them I was going to combine a Zalman ZM-MIC or the Sony ECMCS3 MIC in the same plug but I abandoned the idea altogether. I will just use heat-shrink tubing with cut-out shoelaces to hold the custom cables together & both devices (MOD'ed Koss KSC75 with the Zalman or the Sony MIC) will have their own gold plated plug. After that's done, I will include the free Razor Surround software for my nephew. I'm not trying to bash on "gaming headsets" in general but most of them are selling snake-oil & are usually garbage overall. My nephew put me up to the challenge & I accepted it. Yes, I will charge him for every part so he can take better care of his own belongings for his own good. Plus, I was going to use the money he gave me to surprise him with a Creative Sound Card 70SB057000001 for the gaming rig I built him early & I will slap on a few heat sinks from my shop to reduce the heat just in case. However, my concern ATM is how much of an effect the MIC will have when I re-cable it & hopefully it slightly improves or stays neutral but I made custom foam tips for it already. Either way, I can't wait for the entire project to be finished because I'm excited for the results. My nephew as well as I, have a friendly rivalry & especially when we play against each other online in video games.
 
Mar 17, 2016 at 6:10 PM Post #13 of 16
Well, generally gold-plated plugs can be had for fairly cheap prices.
A standard 3.5mm gold plated neutrik plug costs about 3-4 euros or $4-5...
... but I was talking more about something like this:
 
http://www.viablue.de/com/phono_plugs_3_5_t6s.shtml  
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Mar 17, 2016 at 7:54 PM Post #14 of 16
"Well, generally gold-plated plugs can be had for fairly cheap prices."
True, but I already purchased some already & I might just switch them for the Neutrik Rean you mentioned.
 
"A standard 3.5mm gold plated neutrik plug costs about 3-4 euros or $4-5..."
The ones I purchased are some random no name brand on eBay but I will most likely switch them for the Neutrik Rean brand. However, I was wondering if you can check my link to see if they're genuine Neutrik Rean. http://www.parts-express.com/neutrik-rean-nys231bg-35mm-stereo-plug-black-with-gold-plug--092-157
 
"... but I was talking more about something like this:
http://www.viablue.de/com/phono_plugs_3_5_t6s.shtml  :p"
They're still gold-plated & are these better than the Neutrik Rean?? If so, how & why?
 
Mar 18, 2016 at 4:11 AM Post #15 of 16
Yup - REAN is the European brand of Neutrik. Absolutely no difference, although the REAN's tend to sell for much lower prices for some reason.
 
The Viablue's are essentially much larger for bigger cables and they're made of much thicker material - so they should theoretically last longer.
But my main point was that they would EASILY house 2 small resistors so you wouldn't have a weird 'resistor lump' surrounded by electrical tape/head-shrink in the cable somewhere - it would all be in the plug housing. 
 

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