Just picked up a KD-1033
Sep 17, 2007 at 12:13 PM Thread Starter Post #1 of 16

Bjornboy81

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Hey guys, I just got a Kenwood kd-1033 from a record shop for free. It doesn't work as of now. I have no idea what wrong with it, but I'm gonna give it a shot and see if I can't get it working.

My question is: is this thing worth putting any money/time/effort into? If I do get it running, is it just a going to be a working POS? Anything I can do to make it decent/good? It's in great physical shape though!

I own no vinyl, just thought it would be a fun little project...maybe sell it once I get it working...

Thanks guys!
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Sep 17, 2007 at 2:09 PM Post #2 of 16
The 1st thing to find out is if the motor has given up the ghost. I can't remember if there was a fuse as well in the cabinet. Worth having a look to see if that has gone. Don't forget to remove the headshell and tie the arm down, then remove the mat and platter, before turning the TT upside down to see if it has screws at the underside with a removable base to again access to the inside. if the motor has died, then best get rid of it. If you get itgoing again however, change the mat if it is the original one with several circular grooves. It is not the greatest of TT, but not the worst one either.
 
Sep 17, 2007 at 4:10 PM Post #3 of 16
Quote:

Originally Posted by Herandu /img/forum/go_quote.gif
The 1st thing to find out is if the motor has given up the ghost.


This is a belt drive so the first thing to do is check the belt no?
Remove the platter mat and there should be a hole where you can see the motor spindle. If it's moving when turned on then check to see if the belt has broken or simply slipped off.

A new belt from turntablebasics.com is always a good idea anyway and will usually cost you 10 dollars or so.

This is a good quality entry level turntable from the 1970s so is well worth getting going if you can. It's a simple design of pretty good build quality and the only other thing you need really do is replenish the main bearing oil.

Also check the arm bearings. Hold the cuing lever on the headshell and very gently shake it up and down and from side to side to see if you can hear any rattling in the arm bearings.
 
Sep 17, 2007 at 4:32 PM Post #4 of 16
Quote:

Originally Posted by memepool /img/forum/go_quote.gif
This is a belt drive so the first thing to do is check the belt no?
Remove the platter mat and there should be a hole where you can see the motor spindle. If it's moving when turned on then check to see if the belt has broken or simply slipped off.

...

Also check the arm bearings. Hold the cuing lever on the headshell and very gently shake it up and down and from side to side to see if you can hear any rattling in the arm bearings.



I can hear the motor spin when I turn it on so I'm guessing the belt is broken of off. I have yet to open it up. I don't think I'll have problem getting it running though. The arm seems OK. no movment problems or sounds that shouldn't be there.


Quote:

Originally Posted by memepool /img/forum/go_quote.gif
This is a good quality entry level turntable from the 1970s so is well worth getting going if you can. It's a simple design of pretty good build quality and the only other thing you need really do is replenish the main bearing oil.


This is the sentence I wanted to hear. It looks like it's a pretty sturdy unit. just wanted to make sure it's not know for being horrible!

Can you suggest a decent cartridge for it?

Thank you gentlemen!
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Sep 17, 2007 at 5:04 PM Post #5 of 16
Quote:

Originally Posted by Bjornboy81 /img/forum/go_quote.gif
I can hear the motor spin when I turn it on so


Not too loudly I hope. Motors are one of those things that should be seen and not heard
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Quote:

Originally Posted by Bjornboy81 /img/forum/go_quote.gif
This is the sentence I wanted to hear. It looks like it's a pretty sturdy unit. just wanted to make sure it's not know for being horrible!

Can you suggest a decent cartridge for it?



I'd go for something like an Audio Technica AT440MLA as the arm looks fairly sturdy (ie higher mass). A Denon DL110/160 would also be nice. These range between 70-150USD if you shop around. Carts are expensive these days I'm afraid.

Does it have a cart on it at the moment? it might be cheaper just to get a new stylus initially.
 
Sep 17, 2007 at 5:50 PM Post #6 of 16
Quote:

Originally Posted by memepool /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Not too loudly I hope. Motors are one of those things that should be seen and not heard
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No not loudly...barely audible actually. I didn't notice it at first.


Quote:

Originally Posted by memepool /img/forum/go_quote.gif
I'd go for something like an Audio Technica AT440MLA as the arm looks fairly sturdy (ie higher mass). A Denon DL110/160 would also be nice. These range between 70-150USD if you shop around. Carts are expensive these days I'm afraid.

Does it have a cart on it at the moment? it might be cheaper just to get a new stylus initially.



crap. don't want to spend that kind of money on it. It has a cartridge already. might just use the one on it for the time being. Like I said, I have not vinyl and don't really plan on getting into it, just something to play around with.

Noob questions....what's the stylus? Is that the part with the tip that actually touches the record? That's replaceable???

You learn something new everyday! :p
 
Sep 17, 2007 at 6:01 PM Post #7 of 16
Quote:

Originally Posted by Bjornboy81 /img/forum/go_quote.gif

Noob questions....what's the stylus? Is that the part with the tip that actually touches the record? That's replaceable???

You learn something new everyday! :p



Two main types Moving Magnet and Moving Coil. MM is cheaper on the whole and can have the needle / stylus section replaced which is gernerally slightly cheaper than replacing the whole thing. Stylus should definitely be replaced before you play anything on it as it's easily damaged and usually worn out on an old 2nd hand table. Can cost anything between 20-400USD depending what cart it is.

Should say on it somewhere. If it doesn't then it's usually not worth having.

There are cheaper new carts. AT make some for as little as 25USD but it might not be the best match for your table. Ok if you just want to satisfy your curiousity about what the format sounds like I guess.
 
Sep 17, 2007 at 6:10 PM Post #8 of 16
Thanks for the info bud, appreciate it!
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Sep 17, 2007 at 11:10 PM Post #9 of 16
I got it working! well...it spins anyways. Just needed a good greasing on the main shaft. Everything else looks good. I'll have to borrow or buy a record and test it. Am I going to need a preamp or anything or just go right to an amp?

Thanks guys for the help. I can't believe I'm excited about a turntable...my parents will be proud! haha.
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Sep 18, 2007 at 9:44 AM Post #10 of 16
Quote:

Originally Posted by Bjornboy81 /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Am I going to need a preamp or anything or just go right to an amp?


well done ! Are you saying the reason the deck wasn't spinning was not to do with the belt but because the main bearing had seized up though? Did you pull the thing apart when you re-oiled it?

You should really have checked for signs of rust or damage to the bearing as this has to run run completely quietly. If it was just the lubricant which had dried then you should completely remove all the old stuff with q-tips and clean the main shaft with a lint free paper towel. Then refill it with something like synthetic motor oil ( Mobil One / Redline).

When you spin it with your hand with the belt removed from the drive spindle it should rotate completely silently for 30 seconds at least.

If this is good then you'll need a phono pre-amp if your amp doesn't have a phono stage built in. If you don't it's always worth checking out the same kind of places you found the turntable for vintage amps / receivers which will have one built in. Otherwise Radioshack have one for about 20USD I believe.
 
Sep 18, 2007 at 12:01 PM Post #11 of 16
Quote:

Originally Posted by memepool /img/forum/go_quote.gif
well done ! Are you saying the reason the deck wasn't spinning was not to do with the belt but because the main bearing had seized up though? Did you pull the thing apart when you re-oiled it?


Thanks, that's exactly it! The deck was also slightly scraping against the base. Just some crap build up. I pulled everything apart, cleaned it all and regreased the main bearing. I'll check to see how long it spins for, but it's completely silent!


Quote:

Originally Posted by memepool /img/forum/go_quote.gif
If this is good then you'll need a phono pre-amp if your amp doesn't have a phono stage built in. If you don't it's always worth checking out the same kind of places you found the turntable for vintage amps / receivers which will have one built in. Otherwise Radioshack have one for about 20USD I believe.


Radio Shack it is! haha. What is the preamp doing, just amplifying the 4.6mV signal from the pickup, right? It's not doing any mixing either is it? I notice that it's essentially a balanced signal from the pickup.

I was thinking of building my own right into the cabinet of the TT (keep the runs short) and just basing it on a CMoy setup. Good idea, bad idea? I should be able to tie the green and black together as ground I'm not sure what the setup of the pickup coils are. Any good reference material to read BTW?

FYI, I have an electronics and magnetics background (electrical engineer that designs transformers) so please, don't hold back on tech talk.
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Sep 18, 2007 at 1:00 PM Post #12 of 16
Quote:

Originally Posted by Bjornboy81 /img/forum/go_quote.gif
I pulled everything apart, cleaned it all and regreased the main bearing. I'll check to see how long it spins for, but it's completely silent!


sounds fine. Also make sure the platter is not rising and falling when it spins as sometimes the bearing can get distorted. If the scraping was just dirt stuck to the bottom of the platter as it sounds from your description then this is probably fine.
Different grades of oil will effect how well it spins and how quietly. Since this wasn't a very expensive deck sometimes the tolerances of the bearing and sleeve are not as good as they could be so heavier oil can help. Japanese kit is usually pretty good in this regard though.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bjornboy81 /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Radio Shack it is! haha. What is the preamp doing, just amplifying the 4.6mV signal from the pickup, right? It's not doing any mixing either is it? I notice that it's essentially a balanced signal from the pickup.


The Pre-amp is also applying RIAA equalisation. Basically when the vinyl is pressed they attenuate the lower frequencies to fit more on the record amongst other things so this needs to be re-eq'd back to normal for playback.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bjornboy81 /img/forum/go_quote.gif
I was thinking of building my own right into the cabinet of the TT (keep the runs short) and just basing it on a CMoy setup. Good idea, bad idea? I should be able to tie the green and black together as ground I'm not sure what the setup of the pickup coils are. Any good reference material to read BTW?


Generally the mechanics of the deck are the most important element to get right as it's essentially measuring tiny vibrations so any extraneous noise from the motor or electronics will be fed back into the stylus and amplified muddying the tiny signal.

Therefore it's better to isolate the electronics as much as possible. The belt drive system is still the simplest way of acheiving this as far as the motor is concerned but you should clean the path with isopropyl and get a new belt form turntablebasics as I mentioned to optimise the tension for correct pitch.

They will send you a range of sizes until you get one which fits. It can't be too tight either or it will stress the bearing and lots of their standard measurements are incorrect.

Acoustic feedback is the other main issue. Get some foculpods or similar isolation supports and try to place the deck on it's own surface, preferably a wall shelf unless your floor is concrete, well way from speakers and other equipment. Get a small spirit level and make sure it's completely level.

Rewiring the arm would also be a good upgrade but this is fiddly. Replacing the lead out wires with shielded LCOFC microphone cables is a good cheap upgrade.

There are loads of kit phonostages like the Hagerman Bugle which are rated around here. I have never tried to build one myself but if you search for this here and on the web you'll probably find circuit diagrams which can work as a basis for a DIY effort.

vinylengine.com , audiogon.com and audio asylum also have a lot of DIYers who will be better able to discuss the electronics side of it.
 
Sep 19, 2007 at 11:59 AM Post #13 of 16
Thanks for the info. I'm going to replace the belt, cartridge, and maybe build my own preamp based on the Bugle...looks easy enough. Not sure when I'm going to get around to it, but hopefully soon.

Thanks for all the help man! Never knew there was so much involved in a piece of spinning plastic! haha.

cheers,
paul
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Sep 20, 2007 at 8:36 PM Post #14 of 16
Quote:

Originally Posted by Bjornboy81 /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Thanks for the info. I'm going to replace the belt, cartridge, and maybe build my own preamp based on the Bugle...looks easy enough. Not sure when I'm going to get around to it, but hopefully soon.

Thanks for all the help man! Never knew there was so much involved in a piece of spinning plastic! haha.

cheers,
paul
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Some upgrades for the bugle should be considered.The best one is to install an LM4562NA opamp in the U3 socket instead of the standard OPA2134 opamp.The 4562 will only cost a couple extra dollars from digikey so is well worth it.Some are building the 15v regulated power supply for more air and slam at the cost of a little more noise.Others are using 12v SLA batteries and reporting good results.I have been kicking around the idea of getting 2 battery holders with the capacity of 10 AA batteries each to increase the voltage to 15.This may provide the air and slam of the 15v power supply but with the quiet operation of the stock 9v batteries.Hagtech has a forum at AudioCircle if you would like to do more research.
 
Sep 20, 2007 at 8:57 PM Post #15 of 16
Quote:

Originally Posted by Bjornboy81 /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Thanks for the info. I'm going to replace the belt, cartridge,...


Which of the Grado cartridge is fitted? You might be lucky that it could be a good one that's worth hanging on to for the time being.
 

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