Quote:
Originally Posted by siezien /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Hi,
I have the G&W T2.6F (tubes RTC E188CC) ,senn HD650 recabled and CDP Jolida 100S tweaked completly
drarthurwells, you have the same no??, can you tell me please what differences do you find with the jolida ?...
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Art: The amps are similar in soundstage and imaging. The G&W has slightly sharper tone edges and more bite to transient attacks than the Jolida. The Electro Harmonix 6DJ8 is a bad tube with the G&W - the Philips USA 7DJ8 (or even the Philips USA 6DJ8) was best for me. However, the G&W has a slightly lean tone body that richer tubes can not help because the richer tubes blurred imaging and induce a euphonically distorted tone. The Jolida wins out over the G&W with more tranparency, better inner detail, and better resolution of timbral nuances - the tones and soundstage are slightly more natural.
The Bada 12, Jolida and Doge are better than the G&W for me although the G&W is an excellent amp. The Bada 12 has mosfet reliability problems but has excellent dynamic impact, nice full and sharply imaged tones, and good weight to the music. The Doge excels in timbre - choral voices are heavenly, and has slightly more weight to the music than the Jolida but slightly less than the Bada. Now these characteristics can be manipulated to some degree with tube changes but you sacrifice something to gain something else, in tube changes. The mark of all four of these amps is the capability of sharply defined 3-D imaging where tones are pinpointed in empty space and not blurred together at their edges. Many tube amps depend on timbral differences in the tone body for their imaging but have a subtle blurring of tone edges that make different instruments mesh together. Instruments sound separate because of their separate timbres but lack empty "black" space between them. This is liquidity - a jelly like soundstage, and makes for smoothness while blurring tone edges and, thus giving softer imaging. I like minimal liquidity - only that which is on the program source (which depends on miking techniques in recording).
Quote:
Originally Posted by siezien /img/forum/go_quote.gif
sorry, but I don't understand this :
"seems to have V1, V2, V3 and V4 sections in the amp unit. V1 and V2 use 12AX7 tubes, and V3 and V4 use 12AU7 tubes."
how choose the section you want use ??
that means that you can remove 2 tubes and the amp work good ??
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Art: Use two 6Z4 Chinese rectifier tubes in the separate power supply section. If you properly rewire the tube socket pins (switching two wires to two pins) you can use the USA 6X4 rectifier tubes and get some sound improvement.
In the amp section, use two side-by-side 12AX7, 7025, 5751, 12AT7 tubes in the rear (nearest the power input cable). Also use two 12AU7, 5963, or 5814 tubes in the front, again side-by-side, nearest the headphone plug.
You must use all six tubes and they should be in place (and a headphone plugged in) before turning the amp on and while it is on.
Quote:
Originally Posted by siezien /img/forum/go_quote.gif
sale my G&W and buy a jolida...
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Art: Some people would prefer the G&W. I prefer the Jolida. Each has its good points. You can change the sound to a bigger degree with the Jolida since it allows different input and output tube combos whereas the G&W does not have any such combo possibilities.