I've gotten a mac, and need help regarding my dac
Dec 30, 2010 at 4:11 AM Thread Starter Post #1 of 14

astroman302

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I'll start off my explaining my setup (I'm a poor college student, but it's slowly improving and is definitely respectable for a teen):
 
Songbird (100% flac, mostly 24 bit)> Macbook Pro> MF V-Dac (via usb) > Woo Audio 6 > Grado SR325is
 
I may be mistaken, but I believed when this was configured with my windows comp, a true 24 bit sound was achieved via usb connection.  At the moment, nothing above 16 bits is supported,  Is this because of the fact that I have it set up via usb rather than coaxial/spdif? I have basically no money right now, but most of my files are 24 bit and I woudln't like my system to go to waste, would buying a cheap afd simple converter such as this help at all?  http://www.dhgate.com/ha-info-ng-coax-sound-card-usb-to-spdif-coax/r-ff8080812af1aef0012af3b0242f5eb9.html
 
Otherwise, could anyone give me any solution to this that doesn't involve spending overt about $50?
 
Thanks, I'm desperate :/
 
Dec 30, 2010 at 4:20 AM Post #2 of 14


Quote:
I'll start off my explaining my setup (I'm a poor college student, but it's slowly improving and is definitely respectable for a teen):
 
Songbird (100% flac, mostly 24 bit)> Macbook Pro> MF V-Dac (via usb) > Woo Audio 6 > Grado SR325is
 
I may be mistaken, but I believed when this was configured with my windows comp, a true 24 bit sound was achieved via usb connection.  At the moment, nothing above 16 bits is supported,  Is this because of the fact that I have it set up via usb rather than coaxial/spdif? I have basically no money right now, but most of my files are 24 bit and I woudln't like my system to go to waste, would buying a cheap afd simple converter such as this help at all?  http://www.dhgate.com/ha-info-ng-coax-sound-card-usb-to-spdif-coax/r-ff8080812af1aef0012af3b0242f5eb9.html
 
Otherwise, could anyone give me any solution to this that doesn't involve spending overt about $50?
 
Thanks, I'm desperate :/


Just buy a mini-Toslink -> Toslink cable and you'll enjoy true 24 Bit sound : 
http://www.amazon.com/Cables-Go-27016-Velocity-Toslink-/dp/B0002JFN1A/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1293700694&sr=1-1
 
about 8$ :)
 
Dec 30, 2010 at 4:27 AM Post #3 of 14
x2 on the toslink. Macs can shoot frickin lasers out of the headphone jack. 
biggrin.gif

 
Dec 30, 2010 at 4:37 AM Post #4 of 14
Ok thanks so much!
 
Not to sound dumb, but does that plus into the spdif input for the dac and the headphone jack?
 
Dec 30, 2010 at 5:53 AM Post #6 of 14
Yes. You just need a mini toslink adapter and toslink cable. I plugged my home stereo this way using toslink. Either a toslink cable or the USB cable will work for you. Try my suggestion above first.
 
Quote:
Ok thanks so much!
 
Not to sound dumb, but does that plus into the spdif input for the dac and the headphone jack?



 
Jan 2, 2011 at 2:48 PM Post #7 of 14
The above posts are right, get Toslink but not an $8 one if you care about how your music sounds.  Spend about $70 and get the best sounding mini to regular Toslink you can find which is the Silflex glass Toslink.  Trust me, cheap plastic cables sound like you are listening from the other room and cheap glass while better will not let you hear what your v-dac is capable of.
 
As for the linked USB adapter it will not pass 24 bit, period.   It only does 16 bit and only 44khz and 48khz.  It can sound good with some tweaks to the mac and the right player but it is much easier to get very good sound using the RIGHT Toslink.  Your v-dac should work just fine when set as described in AudioMidi.  
 
If you can find a used Wireworld Mini to regular Toslink for less then grab one of those, they are very good as well.
 
Good luck
 
Jan 4, 2011 at 8:09 AM Post #8 of 14


Quote:
The above posts are right, get Toslink but not an $8 one if you care about how your music sounds.  Spend about $70 and get the best sounding mini to regular Toslink you can find which is the Silflex glass Toslink.  Trust me, cheap plastic cables sound like you are listening from the other room and cheap glass while better will not let you hear what your v-dac is capable of.
 
As for the linked USB adapter it will not pass 24 bit, period.   It only does 16 bit and only 44khz and 48khz.  It can sound good with some tweaks to the mac and the right player but it is much easier to get very good sound using the RIGHT Toslink.  Your v-dac should work just fine when set as described in AudioMidi.  
 
If you can find a used Wireworld Mini to regular Toslink for less then grab one of those, they are very good as well.
 
Good luck


 
I trusted you and bought an 6 Feets SILFLEX GLASS with OPTISILK JACKETING TOSLINK TO MINIPLUG on this site : http://www.lifatec.com/toslink2.html
 
My actual toslink cable cost me 8€, i hope i will hear a difference :) (Cable i'm using now work but start to be "damaged" because someone stucked it below the feet of my desktop, and the same "someone" then pulled on the cable...).
 
Jan 5, 2011 at 11:43 PM Post #10 of 14
Thanks for the help guys, one last question...
 
I set my v-dac switch to optical/coaxial after connecting it via fiber optic spdif to my comp, and audio midi didn't recognize it like it did if it was hooked up with a usb.  What am I doing wrong?? Thanks...
 
Jan 5, 2011 at 11:52 PM Post #11 of 14
When you connect the mini toslink plug into the Macbook, the "Built in Speakers" item will automatically become "Digital Out". SPDIF is sent one way only. So the Mac won't know whether there's anything on the receiving side, or what kind of device it is. If it works you'll see a red light coming out of the other end of the cable when music is playing. 
 
Do not look directly into the light with your remaining eye. Just kidding. 
biggrin.gif

 
Jan 5, 2011 at 11:57 PM Post #12 of 14


Quote:
When you connect the mini toslink plug into the Macbook, the "Built in Speakers" item will automatically become "Digital Out". SPDIF is sent one way only. So the Mac won't know whether there's anything on the receiving side, or what kind of device it is. If it works you'll see a red light coming out of the other end of the cable when music is playing. 
 
Do not look directly into the light with your remaining eye. Just kidding. 
biggrin.gif


Lol
 
I took a screenshot just to clarify:
 
Ck7Tv.png

 
 
So basically right now everything's good? :)
I'm testing on cheap cans cause the grados are getting recabled atm, I'm gonna go crazy
 
Apr 21, 2011 at 12:19 AM Post #14 of 14

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